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Was I crazy to pass this up for $900?


Sir Sam
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http://ww4.traauctions.com/kws/napplica ... kID=963412

BBV on it is only $2000. I won the bid at $600, turns out they needed $900 to sell it.

 

At $600 theres about $1000 in profit there. At $900 theres only about $600 profit(taxes and such are higher). At the end of the day if the numbers don't work out then they don't work out.

 

I told them I could do $750, we will see if I hear back.

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what's the mechanical damage?

 

Every donated vehicle shows mechanical damage. My MJ was a donate, showed mechanical damage, after I put in a new battery it ran fine(leaked oil like a sieve because it was way overfilled).

 

Right after tax season you see quite a few donates, 2000ish XJs and WJ running just fine show mechanical.

 

Though with this one there may be something mechanically wrong with it, it was not in the drivers. worst case it needs a new engine, which I have one here with 48k miles on it.

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Delivered today.

 

"engine knocks" written on the drivers rear window.

 

We will see what that means after I let it sit on the battery charger for a few hours.

 

Got the 2000 buffing done, need to throw on the bumper end caps and button up a few details, but overall its looking good.

 

And the update:

 

Well, got the battery charger on it and sure enough, the battery is junk, I swear I have to replace so many damm batteries that I should invest in johnson controls.

 

Put the jumper on it and started it up, sure enough, rod knocking like the census guy in a low income neighborhood.

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Body is ok, some dings on the passenger side. Will replace the engine with the 48k mile engine I have here. Paint is showing its age, very oxidized and micro cracked. Should buff down nice though.

 

Gotta wrap up with the green jeep first, get it up for sale.

 

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  • 2 months later...

Got the old engine out, new engine out, got the intake and exhaust switched over

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The new motor is pretty clean inside(guess thats what happens at 44k miles):

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96 exhaust mani vs 01 mani with all the extra cats and 02 sensors:

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96 mani top, 01 bottom, I am keeping the 96 mani on the jeep to sell it, then will sell off the 01 for someone looking to upgrade:

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Gonna try and sell the AW4 with the TCM and other stuff needed for someone to convert a TJ to an AW4.

 

Dunno what to do with the old longblock, just get rid of it I suppose.

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So what are your plans for the red xj? and what are your plans for the engine you are removing?

Nice find.

 

Just flipping the red XJ, bought it for a profit turnaround.

 

The old block, prolly just try to get a little bit for it on CL, would make a good block for someone to build up into a stroker.

 

I'll also be selling the 99+ intake and the AW4 off, gotta get whatever cash I can coming in.

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Engine/trans/transcase in and bolted up, still need to connect driveshafts. Got it all wired up and started it up for the first time on the new engine, fired up quick and runs smooth.

 

I still need to do something about the gauge cluster temp sensor, the 96 has the ECU sensor on the housing, and it has the gauge cluster sensor on the back of the head, the newer head does not have the hole drilled and tapped for the temp sensor. I debated drilling the head for it, you can see the blanked off area where it would have been, but I didn't know if the internal water passages had changed at all.

 

So I guess tomorrow I try to track down the correct tap for the temp sensor. Anyone know offhand what the thread is? (from using my digital calipers with a dead battery it looks like the major diameter is .4 inches with 26 TPI, so maybe it should really be reading 3/8" = .375?)

 

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Got the engine running and warmed up today, running straight water and then gonna flush it out tomorrow, the old coolant(from the previous engine) was pretty nasty, hopefully I will be able to get the remaining bit of crap outta the system this way, plus I get to check and make sure there are no leaks before dropping a little bit of money into the coolant.

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Gauge temp sensor relocated:

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Crap I knocked outta the radiator(also got lots of out the AC cond):

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New engine sounds good - but the old crap on it does not. It has a miss and the idle kinda hunts around weird, got a CEL that I will start tracking down too. Might route the plug wires around differently to make sure none of them are crossing and causing an inductive misfire.

 

The gas also smells really old, need to get my tags and drive it around and get some fresh gas in it. There's nearly half a tank of old crap in there.

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Ok I had a cel 1391 - tested the cps and it tested fine. Then I went about tracking it down from other problems. I did more research and reading, the resyncronization stuff I was reading had to deal with the tone ring inside the distributor having gotten out of place, the toothpick in the hole was meant to realign the ring so that it fired at the correct time.

 

I then read another thread that talked about the little bit of play when the bolt is loose, you can turn the distributor a whole whopping degree or two with the bolt in place. Someone said to try the other end of the spectrum and see if it was any different in reference to a renix XJ. Well I tried that, turns out at the one end of the just few degrees difference I had it would just stall and not start or run.

 

So I took the bolt out, rotated it past where the bolt hole aligned and used a screwdriver to hold it in place. Started it up, ran smooth and idled nice, no more missing and hunting idle.

 

So that means I was off a tooth on the distributor (just one) and had lucked out(or not lucked out because it caused me more problems) with the one or two degree's that it can be adjusted and would barely run, had I tightened the distributor down just slightly different it would not have run at all, and I would probably have tried to adjust it by one tooth at the beginning of the day.

 

So I looked at it, saw which way made the improvement to the timing, and then saw that meant I needed to "retard" the timing by one tooth.

 

Now because the oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor shaft that means you cannot simply pull the dizzy up, turn it, and put it back down. IF you do this you get the tooth alignment right, but the end of the shaft will not re-engage the oil pump(unless you then have a helper to just tap the key and turn the engine over a little untill it engages and the dizzy goes down all the way, or you have a helper to turn the engine over by hand with a socket and breaker bar on the engine crank pulley bolt.)

 

So that means you have to pull it up, stick a straight screwdriver in, and turn the oil pump by hand untill the shaft direction seems to closely match where it needs to point on the dizzy.

 

Took me a few tries, but I got it, Jeep runs smooth and sounds good! Glad I didn't blow $50 on a new CPS - which also tested fine BTW.

 

Lesson learned, even one tooth off it would still run, but just one more degree and it would not.

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