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New radiator & thermostat installed but not sucking coolant


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:agree:

 

Also........did you get all the air out of the system????

 

There are several write ups about how to burp the cooling system around here.

 

With NO air in the closed cooling system, you should have filled it with appox 2+ gallons of coolant, as a good measure that the air is out of the system.

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:agree:

 

Also........did you get all the air out of the system????

 

There are several write ups about how to burp the cooling system around here.

 

With NO air in the closed cooling system, you should have filled it with appox 2+ gallons of coolant, as a good measure that the air is out of the system.

 

I guess their could be air in the system, I know this is common.

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The HO T-stat housing has a sensor that makes an excellent bleeder screw and is a direct bolt on for Renix trucks. I did this when I changed the T-stat and never had to pull the coolant temp sender out of the head. If another T-stat housing isn't an option then pull the sending unit from the head but be careful...they can snap off sometimes.

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I did my radiator recently, all I did to bleed out the air was fill it at the bottle and squeeze the upper radiator hose to burp it. Eventually it stopped blowing bubbles and the coolant stayed put. Then run it for a while and repeat once the engine is cold.

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:no: OF COURSE! How stupid was I to think you could actually fix these old damn trucks! :wall: It runs good and cycles coolant, but now I have a coolant drip. I think it's from the waterpump or the lower radiator hose. I've also seen a tiny tiny little bit leak from the bolts on the thermostat housing, but I don't want to tighten them too much as that's how I cracked the first housing. I guess I need to buy all new hoses and a new water pump. :rant:

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Get rid of those pain-in-the-@$$ spring clamps that come standard and use good ol fashioned screw hose clamps. Then if it leaks down the line, another turn or two on the screw and it should stop leaking. And less chances of that spring clamp hitting you in the face when it slips out of the pliars as you try and squeeze the hose back in :fs1:

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Newbie, did you put thead sealer on the t-stat bolt threads? Also, sounds like you need to invest in a torque wrench. IIRC the t-stat housing bolts are rated at 156 in.lbs (NOT FT LBS!). Eliminates all guess work when assembling delicate parts.

 

I love the spring clamps. If you ditch them, I will pay for postage to send them my way. I have the spring clamp pliers and will never go back to the inefficient screw style hose clamps.

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Get rid of those pain-in-the-@$$ spring clamps that come standard and use good ol fashioned screw hose clamps. Then if it leaks down the line, another turn or two on the screw and it should stop leaking. And less chances of that spring clamp hitting you in the face when it slips out of the pliars as you try and squeeze the hose back in :fs1:

 

I'm already using screw clamps and if I tighten anymore, they might cut into the hoses.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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