ComancheNewbie

I took off the bottom dash piece for a better look....I felt the bar that slides up and down the steering column when I turn the key, and I loosened the 2 bolts on the ignittion switch...amazinlgy it works just fine now. When I turn the key off, the engine shuts off everytime now....wtf? I didn't do anything yet! haha BUT... my question is, what is the device called that the bar is actually sliding in and out of? It's mounted more on the side of the steering column vice the top. The "ignition switch" I bought from Autozone (Part# LS442) is not what the bar slides into, but is mounted on top of the steering column. These are the two bolts I loosened.

Ok, I just replaced the water pump, so now I'm back to the engine not sucking coolant again. Last time, it took 2-3 days for the coolant to finally get sucked in. Any other tricks on how to "burp" the system and get rid of this damn air pocket that keeps forming?

I have to pull the center plug on the distributor to shut off my engine because when I turn the key off, the damn thing keeps running! :dunno: I've been told that I can adjust the ignition switch. How do you do that? Anyone have pictures?

I'm already using screw clamps and if I tighten anymore, they might cut into the hoses.

:no: OF COURSE! How stupid was I to think you could actually fix these old damn trucks! :wall: It runs good and cycles coolant, but now I have a coolant drip. I think it's from the waterpump or the lower radiator hose. I've also seen a tiny tiny little bit leak from the bolts on the thermostat housing, but I don't want to tighten them too much as that's how I cracked the first housing. I guess I need to buy all new hoses and a new water pump. :rant:

finally fixed...for now. :no:

I ended up buying it. Only $10 and since I'm making multiple stops into Autozone every week for this POS truck anyways, I figured what the hell. My father-in-law said he's used it and it worked well for him. The bottle says to use every 6,000 miles and will stop leaks usually within the first 2 days or 100 miles. I think it all depends how bad your rear main seal is.

I guess I just had air in the system, because it finally started circulate coolant. Now on to the next problem! :shake:

I guess their could be air in the system, I know this is common.

I didn't replace the water pump. Just the radiator and thermostat.

I'm about ready to blow this truck up! I just installed a new radiator and thermostat and the engine isn't sucking in any coolant. I ran it way above "normal operating temperature" and still nothing. WHAT'S WRONG!?!?

I saw a quart of Rear Main Seal "Stop Leak" at Autozone and I was just wondering if anyone has tried it. I think it was $10. Obviously it's not a good fix, but temporary until I have time to change the seal maybe?

Picked up the radiator, thermostat, thermostat gasket, and upper auto trans cooler line @ autozone for $136. I snapped the cooler line when removing the old radiator. Install this weekend.

I was finally home long enough this weekend to work on the "beater." I pulled the radiator and sure enough, the plastic is cracked on one end, explaining my white smoke and leak. So I need to pick up a new along with a new line I snapped trying to disconnect it from the radiator. That thing was a b*tch!

If I get within 50 feet of a car the radiator goes out,,,the walmart parking turns into yellowstone when I walk through it. :cheers: If I get within 50 of my Comanche something else breaks on it. :fs1:

I haven't really "tested" it yet, but if you're standing in front of the truck, the left side of the radiator under the metal piece holding the radiator is where the white smoke comes from and the green puddle is below, but I just can't see good enough. I need to pull the radiator. The rubber hoses appear to be ok, but I'll probably still replace them. I think the leak is from the side of the radiator or one of the metal lines (or connectors) coming out of the side. Those are for the transmission and heater I think, right?

Think a test is worth it or should I just buy a new radiator? I found some online for under $100.

Thanks Dave. The rubber hose on top is squishy, not firm, so obviously it's not under pressure. I'm out of town these weekend, so I guess when I get back I'll pull the radiator for a better view. I'll go ahead and order new hoses.

My 1990 4.0L Comanche had white smoke coming out on the passenger's side front grill. Leaking anti-freeze. Rubber hoses are good. Radiator blown? Transmission line maybe?

When I change my rear main seal, what else should I go ahead and replace that will be accessible?

Question: I just picked up a 87, the comfort/power switch is busted, haven't torn into the dash yet to look it over, there are no additional light on and by the way she runs ima assume it's stuck in comfort mode...what is the best way to bypass this switch and make it power mode all the time?...if there is a thread for it a link would be awesome Sorry, but I'm a newbie who doesn't know jack about this stuff, haha. Just seach the forums and ask around. These poeple are GREAT at common problems, troubleshooting, and advising how to fix things.

I understand "power," but why the hell did they label the "comfort" part? haha I assume I'm in comfort mode if the light is off, right? I pushed the power button once and the light came on, but I turned it off in fear this 20 year old beast would blow up! :yes: Yeah, the light on is the power setting, and the one you will want to use. Don't worry about it blowing up, this is actually the "normal" setting. Haha, yeah the "comfort" setting was a poor attempt to get smoother shifts for a more "family friendly" ride. It attempts to do so by lowering the shift points and downshifting less often. This was actually pretty common among late 80s to early 90s import vehicles, especially Toyotas.... it basically IS a Toyota transmission after all. The power/comfort button made a HUGE difference! It actually feals like I have an engine now!

Another problem has emerged :wall: When I turn the key off, the engine keeps running! :mad: I can take the key all the way out and just watch my gas go down the drain! This doesn't happen all of the time, but when it does, it takes 10 min or more of "off, on, off, on, off on" to get the damn thing to shut off! Anybody want to buy this thing? :help:

I understand "power," but why the hell did they label the "comfort" part? haha I assume I'm in comfort mode if the light is off, right? I pushed the power button once and the light came on, but I turned it off in fear this 20 year old beast would blow up! :yes: Yeah, the light on is the power setting, and the one you will want to use. Don't worry about it blowing up, this is actually the "normal" setting. Haha, yeah the "comfort" setting was a poor attempt to get smoother shifts for a more "family friendly" ride. It attempts to do so by lowering the shift points and downshifting less often. This was actually pretty common among late 80s to early 90s import vehicles, especially Toyotas.... it basically IS a Toyota transmission after all. Ok, cool. I'll give it a try then.