JohnQ Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Does anyone have pics of their floor pan after fixing it with POR-15? I recently discovered that I have a tiny floor board issue on my drivers side and I ordered the POR-15 floor pan/trunk pan repair kit. I was wondering what it will look like once I get it fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 you really didnt need the whole kit to tell you the truth. i have used por-15 so many times to restore MJs and K-10s that i know from experience. all you really need is (depending on hole size) the marine clean, metal ready, and the por-15. if the holes are bigger then use the fiberglass patch to cover them. best way to fix smaller holes though is to put maskin tape down since it won't be as rough as the fiberglass patch. and don't worry, por-15 is strong enough to turn that maskin tape into steel. as for useing the black over the por-15, no need unless you are making a show truck. por-15 is uv sensetive but all that does to it is discolor it. i am going to be ripping my floor out this summer to por-15 it and then rhino line it. then put some TJ floor plugs in the floor so it can be hosed out. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rejeep Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 ... can explain this more... so basically If i use regular old duct tape to seal off holes and cracks in my floor, then coat it with por-15 I will have a sealed floor.. I'm not looking for beauty, just to keep the cold and mud out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 ... can explain this more...so basically If i use regular old duct tape to seal off holes and cracks in my floor, then coat it with por-15 I will have a sealed floor.. I'm not looking for beauty, just to keep the cold and mud out. that will work fine. done it many times and it works great. just on the holes make sure you coat both sides so the underside of the duct tape is not exposed to the elements. what i do is coat the floor first, let it setup a bit so its still tacky then put the tape down then coat both sides of it. heck as long as u coat both sides and do it that way newspaper would work. and for really rusted areas use the silver kind, it has ground aluminum in it and it fills the rusted metal better. and if exposed to heat or uv it turns goldish did it to my old exhaust system right after being put on. oh and as for explainin more i could go ahead and do a whole right up on por-15 for the club once we get it that far along. i have used it for so many different things so many times i should work for em. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rejeep Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 thats a cool idea.. "paper mache" my floor instead of using steel. I LIKE! My entire driver side floor was ripped out due to rust... I took an old side of SS from a oven and banged and snipped it till it fit, but the seams are leaking air and some moisture.. this seems like a great way to seal it up quick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbhill Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 i would go around the edges of the seam w/ some seam sealer then por 15 it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 por-15 actually makes something called "por-patch". what it is is a thicker mixture of por-15 and is made to be used as a sealer. works great also. i use it to smooth out uneven surfaces then use por-15 on the rest and over it. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnQ Posted November 4, 2006 Author Share Posted November 4, 2006 Here's the mess I found yesterday when I pulled out the flooring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rejeep Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 if you call that a mess, then mine would be chernobal (sp) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 Mine's just plain missing. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 That must be the metal floor option I've heard about.:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbhill Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 i would let the floor dry out then wire brush it then por 15 it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpm4x4 Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 I just wish I had a floor to put the POR-15 on :mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankdm83 Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 So where can I get this amazing por-15. Is there a website for it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnQ Posted November 6, 2006 Author Share Posted November 6, 2006 So where can I get this amazing por-15. Is there a website for it? I got mine off ebay. I ordered it late Thursday night and got it today. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 So where can I get this amazing por-15. Is there a website for it? http://www.por15.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankdm83 Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 thanks know to buy more stuff for spring, lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnQ Posted November 9, 2006 Author Share Posted November 9, 2006 Whats the best way to prep my floor pan? Should I just wire brush it or go nuts with a sander? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 wire brush works great. that is what i have always used unless doing outside body work. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Hunter Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 POR15 is awesome. Here's my DS before the replacement metal: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrettM Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 POR15 is awesome. Here's my DS before the replacement metal: so when you replace that much, how do you paint the underside of the new metal that is inside the frame rail? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 I don't know what bounty's plan was, but I'm using metal that doesn't rust for my patch repair in the '90. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrettM Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 I don't know what bounty's plan was, but I'm using metal that doesn't rust for my patch repair in the '90. :D aluminum and rivets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Hunter Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 so when you replace that much, how do you paint the underside of the new metal that is inside the frame rail? What little was above the chassis rail was not painted, 'cept for the oem XJ paint that was still on the pieces I put in, after cutting and welding. The POR15 covers very well, and I used seam sealer on all the seams from below. May POR15 or undercoat from beneath as well, one of these days. Had two spots on the pass. side, right behind the front tire and directly above the muffler (common spot). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 I don't know what bounty's plan was, but I'm using metal that doesn't rust for my patch repair in the '90. :D aluminum and rivets? Maybe. I've got some galvanized sheetmetal in the garage. :D Not sure how easy it'll be to bend into complicated shapes though. :hmm: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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