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If you trim off those stupid little nailhead peg things in the windshield frame, paint over the bare metal, and then use a rubber windshield trim ring from a 95 or later XJ it should work iirc. You may even be able to get away with leaving the pegs for the old trim in place, not sure.

 

The OEM part number for the trim (used on production date 2/8/94 and later, metal trim was 2/7/94 and earlier) is 5523 5391AB. Any Crown dealer should be able to order one for you for ~$30-50.

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Funny this should come up. My windshield guy just left 5 minutes ago :rotf:

 

We chose to use rubber stripping and we did not have to trim those little nubs off.

 

The windshield guy brought the rubber strip and threw it in with the install. Glass and all was $90 here in SoCal.

 

Just for advice, have who ever installs it put a metric $%&* ton of primer on there so the glass adhesive sticks well to the chasis. If not, the natural flex of the MJ may cause the window glue to come off the chassis and allow for leaks. (Don't ask me how I know).

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Cheapest I could find around here was $165, an hour drive away in Keene NH. Then I realized my windshield has been leaking for so long (previous previous owner was a hack...) that a section of the top edge of the windshield frame is rusted out, and I wanted to fix it before I put a new windshield in. Not wanting to drive an hour with no windshield that means I'm doing it myself...

 

Costs so far:

$20 garrote/piano wire style windshield removal kit

$30 junkyard windshield (fairly rare to see broken ones at the junkyard around here, got lucky and pulled the first one without breaking it!)

$30 3M single step primer (3M 08681 or 08682, I bought mine on amazon)

$30 two caulk tubes of 3M urethane windshield adhesive

$12 3M 08888 glass cleaner

 

Yeah, I know, I could have spent a lot less. Surface prep is one of those things I follow TO THE LETTER nowadays, after one failed paintjob due to me saying "whatev, how much can it really matter" I'm not willing to risk a second botched job. So I dropped the 42 bucks on aerosol glass cleaner and primer when I probably could have spent 10 at autozone and done fine - again, not worth risking it being screwed up and leaking again, having to reupholster my headliner once is one time too many.

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So a little clarification:

 

the next time I have to replace the windshield on my 87, I should get a 95 and up rubber gasket and cut the nubs off the inside of the window frame, INSTEAD of using the older style poly eurothane/ butyl sealer???

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Not quite.

 

Apparently (thanks cracker!) you don't need to cut the nubs off, so I'd leave em just to preserve the paint seal and keep rust from happening.

 

You still need to use the new sealer, the only thing the new rubber trim strip eliminates is having to fiddle around with those infernal plastic clips and strips of metal trim. Stick the rubber trim ring onto the edge of the windshield right before gluing it in with the urethane adhesive.

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Not quite.

 

Apparently (thanks cracker!) you don't need to cut the nubs off, so I'd leave em just to preserve the paint seal and keep rust from happening.

 

You still need to use the new sealer, the only thing the new rubber trim strip eliminates is having to fiddle around with those infernal plastic clips and strips of metal trim. Stick the rubber trim ring onto the edge of the windshield right before gluing it in with the urethane adhesive.

 

The rubber seal that was used (on mine) actually goes onto the windshield BEFORE it is installed onto the vehicle. It has a groove that the windshield slides into and there was plenty of room to not need to cut those little nubs off.

 

When I get my new camera in a couple of weeks I will try to get a picture of it.

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The newer style gasket / trim also makes it easier to cut out if you have to replace it again .

Also just as important as the prep , please use PPG glass . LOF is good glass as well but PPG is unmatched in my book .

Often the big price difference is what brand glass the shop is using .

 

Saftylite = :ack:

PPG = :bowdown:

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