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ford 9" rear brake system


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I'm planning to get disc brake conversion also noticed that rear axles don't have brake lines to split pressure each side and the hose thats gonna connect to the split was visegripped :(

 

so do u think i gotta replace those hose and is there any possible to go to special shop to make a brake lines?

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I'm planning to get disc brake conversion also noticed that rear axles don't have brake lines to split pressure each side and the hose thats gonna connect to the split was visegripped :(

I don't understand the question. First you say there's no split, then you say the hose that connects to the split was visegripped.

 

What's the question?

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Also, what Ford rear disk brakes are you going with? I'd look into the disk brakes off of a Ford Exploerer etc. Ford also sold them through Ford Motorsports. They will/should fit Ford 9 rear ends with the large bearing. So, then you should be able to use the brake hose setup from the Ford 8.8 that is a common swap into XJ,MJ and ZJs.

Tom

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I'm planning to get disc brake conversion also noticed that rear axles don't have brake lines to split pressure each side and the hose thats gonna connect to the split was visegripped :(

I don't understand the question. First you say there's no split, then you say the hose that connects to the split was visegripped.

 

What's the question?

sorry for your misunderstood and its my fault for not explain clear

 

theres actually there no split and the hose that go connect the split is vise gripped because there missing split and brake lines to each sides so the hoses have nothing to connect and just go leaking so its vise gripped

 

better?

 

Also, what Ford rear disk brakes are you going with? I'd look into the disk brakes off of a Ford Exploerer etc. Ford also sold them through Ford Motorsports. They will/should fit Ford 9 rear ends with the large bearing. So, then you should be able to use the brake hose setup from the Ford 8.8 that is a common swap into XJ,MJ and ZJs.

Tom

 

I'm not sure just good disc brakes that would stop my soon as be bad a$$ comanche well and good brake for off road

 

explorer brakes sound good to me and thanks ill check the ford motorsports... :typing: thanks!

 

cheers! :cheers:

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  • 7 months later...

sorry for bring this thread back alive from graveyard

 

I'm finally able to buy rear brake parts for my big bearing 9" rear 5x5.5 pattern with 31spline (I gotta pull axle out and recount plus check the pattern too for make sure )

 

also I'm planning to go to junkyard 30mins south from me to pull explorer rear disc brakes out this week but now I have idea. :idea:

 

What if i just find a bracket for caliper that able bolt on my axle or weld it up. then find caliper that have parking brake mechanism inside the caliper like I did some research- old Cadillac eldorando have like those kind of caliper.

 

So the question is as do any one of you know which cheap brackets that can bolt on my rear axle and which rotor that can fit on too?

 

btw my current rims are 15" so I don't know if they can fit over this disc conversion?

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Explorers are 5 on 4.5 so don't bother with that. also, you will have a 31 spline big bearing. no need to wonder. the big question is roller bearings or tapered bearings, but that only matters if you're replacing the bearings or seals (which are integral with the bearings and the bearings are press-on and have to be done by a shop)

 

I believe the guy that did mine used CJ front rotors and chevy cailpers, but not sure. here's a couple links for 9" disk conversions.

 

http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/brakes.html

 

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=229934

 

 

The rotors I have didn't fit perfect though. see the slop around each lug?

 

 

the previous owner did nothing about it, but I couldn't accept it. So I went to the hardware store, found some small spacers (essentially a short tube with a specific inner and outer diameter) and sliced them to length so they fit around each lug.

 

 

does a great job of keeping the rotor aligned and centered. :thumbsup:

 

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You can add a brake line pressure lock inline to the rear brakes. You can get them through several different places such as Summit, or Jegs, places like that. You press the brake pedal, hit the line lock, and it will hold pressure in the brake line to hold the brakes until you relaese it. Just an option, though some people say this will cause premature seal damage to the calipers, might be worth it though if it is easier to make everything work.

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Sure pete, and if you forget, and drive away , it will follow you to the next time you need to use it! I just used the 11" ford brakes that came with the rearend. The factory E brake cables fit right into the backing plates. Someday I would like to do the disc deal, but this works good for now.

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Sounds great! But I tend leave engine running while park like check the deep water puddle, winch, mce car out, etc. Even I tend put parking brake on while I'm park my Subaru even it's automatic anyway

 

Pete- where did u find those specific tube for fitting in lug stud to sit rotor up good?

 

Edit: it's pretty silly to turn engine off everytime I park and put in gear

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I cannot remember the last time I used a parking brake in anything. :dunno: unless you count doing donuts in the Neon that one day. :clapping:

 

I got the tube from Lowes. They had a selection of different spacers.

 

Hmm lol Alright I'll give it try without parking brake :roll:

 

Neon? Called my Subaru a neon? Lol I did plenty of donuts and drift with my Subaru for like four years. Soon I'll be better than Ken Block haha :brows:

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I didn't do it, I bought the axle with it already done so I don't know all the details. I do know that he welded the bracket on but I don't remember if the rotors he used needed clearancing.

ah alright

I'm sure that he did grinding the flares for clearance.

 

soon I'm gonna pull my axle out to recount the spline and check the type of bearing and measure the bolt pattern. hope its 5x4.5 so i can bolt on the explorer rotor on without modification

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5 on 5.5

yeah i just measured its 5 on 5.5 lol your correct!

 

its 31 spline as i counted-TWICE :thumbsup:

 

bearing-its look like roller. i gotta look at it closer and make sure. hold on

 

edit: bearing is full cover, looked like seal bearing but doubt

 

also can you tell me where exactly is the breather hole? i still can't find it. look like the square tube is welded over it

i already know that my axles was waterlogged, no breather tube at all. front done install but now rear. still can't find the stupid hole to adapter :fs2:

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on my axle it is to the drivers side of the differential on the top of the axle tube. if the guy welded over it, you'll want to drill another and install a new nipple for a breather hose.

 

Hm can you take a pic for the location where nipple at the driver side of the differential on top of axle tube?

 

 

Won't weld over it will be bad? I don't know if he fill the gap or just weld the square tube above on it.

Autozone have that kind of nipple for breather hose?

 

Also where should the hose route to for able go offroad without get water/mud/dirt go in?

 

Thanks again Pete :cheers:

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it'll look something like this:

stainless-steel-fitting-barbed-nipple.jpg

 

with pipe threads on one end and it will accept a rubber hose on the other. drill the right size hole, then thread the hole for the proper thread pitch. be sure to use a hose clamp to keep the hose on, make sure there is enough slack in the hose so that it won't bind when the suspension is at maximum droop, and make sure it is properly secured and not flapping around in the breeze. I attached mine to my flexible brake hose. Where you route it is all up to you, but the goal is that water can't ever get to the open end of the hose. I ran mine all the way to the engine compartment but that's not necessary. Oh, and I used a clear tubing with the thinking being that if anything was inside the tube, I could see it. But that didn't last long as the tube is now hopelessly dirty and I'm not sure I'd be able to tell one way or the other.

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it'll look something like this:

stainless-steel-fitting-barbed-nipple.jpg

 

with pipe threads on one end and it will accept a rubber hose on the other. drill the right size hole, then thread the hole for the proper thread pitch. be sure to use a hose clamp to keep the hose on, make sure there is enough slack in the hose so that it won't bind when the suspension is at maximum droop, and make sure it is properly secured and not flapping around in the breeze. I attached mine to my flexible brake hose. Where you route it is all up to you, but the goal is that water can't ever get to the open end of the hose. I ran mine all the way to the engine compartment but that's not necessary. Oh, and I used a clear tubing with the thinking being that if anything was inside the tube, I could see it. But that didn't last long as the tube is now hopelessly dirty and I'm not sure I'd be able to tell one way or the other.

 

 

great info! I'm was thinking about route the tube to engine bay to join/merge with front axle hose then attach up with my future snorkel

 

i don't really know yet though

 

my friend have the clear tube too and haha yea its worthless after get dirty haha

 

also what about the picture of your nipple location on your rear axle?

 

thanks again! :cheers:

 

edit: after drill then tap. what about those tiny metal shave that fell into inside axle tube? Use Q-tip cotton to swap it out?

also what about proportion valve? its kind bent and missing the rod and no bracket on axle to hook so should i make one and get new rod?

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