87manche Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 yeah, I saw that JP mag had to cut a cab mount a bit to fit that LA kit. It did look nice though. After I get the jeep mechanically sound with a new tranny then I need two things desperately. A real rear bumper (stupid rollpan, why PO why?) and a belly skid. Hopefully TNT makes a bolt on rear bumper. I can't find a decent one in a yard, andI don't have a welder, so I can't make my own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 I ended up making my own rear bumper out of 2x4x1/4 "C" chanel, using the stock bunper mounts, and some 4x4x1/4 angle Iron. It is Bure beef, and has taken many a direct shot from rocks that I have dropped off. I also incorparated some side rails onto it, that are made out of 2x4x1/4 tubing. By no means is it light, but It does it purpose. I designed it to tuck up close, It is about 3/8 of an inch below where the talgate would sit. If I had to do it all over again, I would have built it before I started bashing my bed, and would have added some bars to Protect my Tail lights. As it stands now, I am getting ready to pull the bed and to to L.E.D's. Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 unfortunately I don't have the stock rear bumper mounts. SOmebody put a smoothed roll pan on the back. It's welded to the bed. I'm gonna have to cut it off under te tail lights and put it back to a real bumper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 If you have access to a torch, or a plasma cutter, make a template of the side of your frame where the 4 bolt holes are and go about making your own bumper brackets out of at least 3/16 or better yet 1/4" plate. Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 unfortunately I've access to nothing of the sort. I was going to look if XJ bumper brackets were the same. See if I couldn't do something about that. I could cut brackets on a bandsaw, I'm looking at finding a decent stick welder. It would work for what I need it for, namely bumpers, and skid plates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 An angle grinder, hole saw, and a lot of time can do ANYTHING a plasma can do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 XJs and MJs share nothing out back, save for the axle. I made a template out of cardboard by placing the cardboard (already in the shape of my eventual bumper bracket) up against the frame and pushing a screwdriver through it where the holes were. Then I used a razor at each punch spot to cut a hole that would be larger than the bolt hole in the truck. Then I put the template back up on the truck and used a pencil to make crosshairs on the cardboard to indicate the exact center of each bolt hole. Then I laid the cardboard template on my steel and the crosshairs indicated the exact center of the bolt holes on the truck. My bracket was simple 4" wide 1/4" thick stock. Unfortunately, if you want to retain use of your tailgate you can't use the 4" stock precisely like I did. The MJ's frame is not inline with the bumper. :( I got a local steel shop to bend the brackets for a couple bucks and paid a porfessional welder to mate the brackets to the bumper. You could also bolt the bracket to the bumper, but paying $10 for the welding seemed a whole lot easier than drilling 20 holes myself. :D Jeep on! --Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scorpion Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Steering: This one's been a killer. Our intent was to provide a steering solution that would completely correct the steering geometry for those 6" and up but we ran into some problems...namely cost. They were extremely nice pieces cut from 3" x 2" blocks and required 3 different fixtures to make them happen. As sweet as they were, they were also gonna end up costing more than anyone would pay for them. The new version I'm working on right now is a tamer version that will be affordable. We've got some bugs to work out but it is still in the works. I'm hoping to have something before the first of the year if everything goes well. In the work for MJ's: We're currently working on stiffeners, sliders for the LWB's and SWB's, and a rear bumper (pre-runner style - to go with the front bumper we currently offer). I do have a few more things up my sleeve which I won't expose until they're ready to go - aka somewhat original products that we don't want to let out of the bag yet. 87manch: we do need test mules from time to time. I'll pop up a thread when we can use some help. You wouldn't happen to have a 2 wheel drive would you? Regarding your rear bumper issue...I'm glad you brought it up (not having the stock rear mounts anymore). I had one like that years ago and couldn't find a rear bumper to work so I had to make something. I'm thinking that we'll have to come out with a replacement brace for those that either have damaged rear bumper mounts or don't have them anylonger. They would have helped me back then. Good idea. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheon33 Posted December 1, 2005 Author Share Posted December 1, 2005 Scorpion, Keep me posted on the steering I am gonna need something soon. Hoping to have the rest of the lift done by the end of Janurary. I also am willing to try out anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 I don't recommend their steering links, but Terra Flexex Hi-steer arm is awesome. I am at over 7" up front, and I do have some bump steer, but I consider it minimal for running disconnected up front. Their steering links are junk :shock: And I am sorry I wasted the extra money buying them, when I am making one with parts I acquired locally for less then 75 bucks. Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scorpion Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 I don't recommend their steering links, but Terra Flexex Hi-steer arm is awesome. I am at over 7" up front, and I do have some bump steer, but I consider it minimal for running disconnected up front. Their steering links are junk :shock: And I am sorry I wasted the extra money buying them, when I am making one with parts I acquired locally for less then 75 bucks. Patrick The Terra system is nice but it doesn't, like you commented, solve the bump-steer issue. The reason for this is that the drag-link connects to the upper part of the knuckle and the trac bar can't get any further out (towards that knuckle) than the inside of the passenger's side coil spring mount. Ideally the trac-bar would run in the drag-link's shadow keeping their arcs exactly the same. With the terra flexx arm it's not possible to accomplish this. Don't get me wrong though, it's an extremely nice piece and would be prefect for a triangulated 4 link which didn't require a trac-bar or a coil-over application setup to allow the trac-bar to be mounted to the diff as close to the passenger's side knuckle as possible. When it comes down to it, a coil sprung vehicle really just has too much junk on the diff to make things easy on all of us on our narrow wheel-based rigs. It seems like there's always something in the way and makes everything more complicated. Move up to a full width HP D60 or D44 and it changes everything. Matt Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Hunter Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Pete, how far down would your bumper need to be in order to use the tailgate? Considering 2"x4" stock, may have to make some drop brackets if possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 As far down as the stock bumper? :roll: It's the brackets themselves that would interfere and I'm sure there are plenty of ways around it. I had been contemplating ditching the tailgate for a prerunner tire mount and the frustration with the bumper bracket was the final straw. I love how my truck turned out and don't regret losing the 'gate at all. :D Of course, I rarely use my Jeep as a "pickup" much anymore and I have a reciever rack if I need it. Jeep on! --Pete I tucked the bumper up as high as it could go (for clearance offroad) without making a serious headache with the sheetmetal removal. As it turned out, my bumper was 1 inch too high for Michigan's bumper law. So I added 3" angle iron to keep it legal-ish. 8) For off-roading I unbolt it and leave it at camp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted December 2, 2005 Share Posted December 2, 2005 I imagine that you could use some 6 in wide stuff anf cut it out so it would drop down. Scorpion: I have a 4WD LWB MJ, but if you want someone to try out your bumper brackets I'm all over that. Ideally I would like to see brakets made that I could weld my own bumper steel to. Something like Pete's bracket, only dropped to allow the tailgate to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 Thanks 87manche for getting me to this link. I don't have the time or desire to make these UBE. I figure the DPG bump stops are 80 bucks. The MORE anti wrap perches are 50 bucks. That is 130 right there. Toss in the shock perches and eliminate the ubolts and my time = Priceless. Here is my question for Scorpion; I am doing a spring over on my 89LWB 4x4. I want to run 33'' tires. I have the D44 rear axle w/metric ton package & stock springs. Which UBE should I go with? No lift or other lifted? Any one have an idea of where I need to be to clear 33s? I have to say the customer service at TnT is fantastic. Bob at TnT always had time for my dumb @$$ qustions and concerns. That was one of my "must have" when picking a lift company. My personal experience with RE has made me value the importance of customer service.-Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 I forgot what the circuference of the D44 tubes were off hand, but that would be the size you need for your tubes. To clear 33's in the rear, wil be no problem with a SOA, up front I would plan on at least 5" depending on how you set your flex up, and how much you limit your uptravel, and what kinda wheeling you do. Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now