making doors removable

[89eliminator]

I imagine he did, but it wouldn't be too hard to improvise a latch on the inside.

 

Rob L.

 

I'm just gonna use the outer handle for now. i welded a custom door panel in.

[Squeegy410]

pics of the custom door panel?

[89eliminator]

not on me right now. i can snap some tonight.

[Squeegy410]

i look forward to it :yes:

[Detonator]

I replaced my doors with a better set of doors(no vent windows, and better rubber weatherstripping). It was a pain to get the t40 onto the six bolts that hold each door in place. The Craftsman socket torx bit would fit but not with the wratchet attached. I slipped a 1/4 wrench over the shaft of the t40 bit coming out of the socket. That worked in the tight space. Once off, I decided it would be easier to cut off the lower half of each hinge. Which I did, and put the hinges back on the doors for reinstallation. I did that. All was well until I tried to put the doors back on. The leading edge of the door near the mirror butts up against the edge of the fender. Not allowing me to get the right angle to line up the door pins to the truck hinges. The doors almost have to be closed to stop the leading edge of the door to not rub on the edge of the fenders. It did try trimming the pins shorter so the door wouldn't have to raise so high to go in. Still didn't clear. I did get them on but only after a long struggle with each door and essentially doing it in the blind. Because I had to have the doors nearly clsoed to get the right angle on the pins lining up, and once its nearly closed you can't see the hinges! I did make one pin slightly shorter than the other on each door. So you can focus(aim) on one going in first then focus(aim) the other. But it is impossible to do alone. I'm thinking I'm gonna notch the fenders to allow the doors to line up correctly when open and just drop right in. Gonna kiss the fender with the grinder, cutting a slit that the doors edge can go into and align right, to then drop straight down. So many times the lower pin would go in and not the top. We would let go thinking they were both in and the doors weight was only held up by the the already weakened single pin. Not good!

Wonder why nobody else has mentioned this?

Oh yeah, the manual window regulators are stripped on the doors I replaced my old ones with. Looked at drilling out the rivets that hold the regulator in place and replace the regulator with the ones from my original doors. Too much work. Gonna put the original doors back on and silicone the driver vent window shut. Sheesh!

[yxmj]

Just my 2 cents....but if you are going for the "Half door" open air look and feel whu not look at what we have been doing with wrangler doors for years?

 

A Tube door

 

   

 

You can make them cheap and easy.....your design can be from mild to wild.....The "Door" portion can be covered by nylon webbing, ornate steel, or sheet metal, giving you as much or as little opening as you want ......the best part is you do not need a door to start cutting up....just some tubing and some imagination.... :banana:

[michael]

if you can find the rear tire carrier off a s10 blazer they are almost perfect for fitmint on the comanche. i buit a couple this last summer and they work great. even used there latch pin to close it. all i did after i fabed it up was add a little weld on the inside of the latch till it was tight and didnt wiggle any.

[89eliminator]

old thread lol.

 

since i unbolted the doors, i was able to realign them and get them to seal better than they did before. I made some half doors, but now i run tube doors.