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Can somebody do me a REALLY quick favor? ebrake Q


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If you have a working parking brake, can you run outside real quick, apply it then turn on the vehicle, I want to see if your tail lights come on or not? I think my e-brake is FUBAR.

 

Thank you in advance, ryan.

 

 

Oh, I know you guys will probably wanna see pics of my rig, soon, I promise.

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If the return spring is broken, it won't pop all the way to the top to turn off the e-brake warning light on the dash. It will probably release the brake from the tension in the cable, but not move the foot pedal high enough for the switch. You should be able to pull the release knob and pull the pedal up at the same time, see what happens?

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wait i don't understand.

 

You want me to load the brakes (pedal down) then simultaneously lift the pedal while pulling the release handle (that I don't have, just have the bracket). I will try that, but I already know the trouble that will cause my nerves, that sucker comes flying up at mach 12x200.

 

I will also try lifting it and pulling release bracket with no tension.

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The brake light on the dash will also come on if you have low fluid. That's what the little sensor on the prop valve is for. Check the fluid level and the wires going to that sensor. Never heard of the rear brake lights coming on, on any vehicle with the e-brake applied. Low fluid might cause the brake pedal to not push all the way up to make the switch. Don't know why it would do it with the E-brake applied.

 

:cheers:

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The brake light on the dash will also come on if you have low fluid. That's what the little sensor on the prop valve is for.

I'm sorry, but this is incorrect.

 

The sensor in the front distribution block (which is NOT a proportioning valve in the MJ, although it is in the XJ) does not in any way sense fluid level. All it does is move if you completely lose pressure to the front of the rear brake circuit. That only happens if you have a serious leak of some kind, such as a ruptured hard line or hose. As long as both the front and rear circuits have any brake fluid at all and can generate braking force, the sensor will not warn you of low fluid level.

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may sound stupid but theres a little metal tab where the lever comes up and it it doenst make contact with it it will keep the little light on the dash on, also would explain why your taillights stay on, it doenst think the lever is up mine was bent and it took a minute to find out why the light was on. hope that helps

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:fool:

You are correct. I explained that poorly. My low fluid level was an empty reservoir and the light was on, but I still had braking power.

 

I too thought it was the E-brake and played with the E-brake switch for awhile to get it to go out before I checked the reservoir and found it empty. Filled her up and pumped the brakes a little and it went out.

 

:cheers:

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You are correct. I explained that poorly. My low fluid level was an empty reservoir and the light was on, but I still had braking power.

But only on one circuit -- the front OR the back. That's what the warning light warns you of. It has nothing to do with fluid level.

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wait i don't understand.

 

You want me to load the brakes (pedal down) then simultaneously lift the pedal while pulling the release handle (that I don't have, just have the bracket). I will try that, but I already know the trouble that will cause my nerves, that sucker comes flying up at mach 12x200.

 

I will also try lifting it and pulling release bracket with no tension.

 

no lol don't try to help it come up while it comes up. after it pops up, pull the release again and push the pedal up some more, that way it will contact the metal thing and make the light go off. if thats your problem you can just make the little metal tab longer :thumbsup:

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Okay guys, we are getting a little of track here.

 

My service brakes work fine, when I push the main brakes the tail lights come on as they should.

 

I am referring to my running lights not coming on in the rear end, you know, the ones that let people behind you know where you are.

 

I think it has to do with my E-Brake, all my normal brakes work fine.

 

When I first turn on the truck, the warning light is kinda dull, and I have no tail lights or front markers then after a minute the light gets brighter, when I wiggle the floor mounted ebrake pedal the light follows my wiggling with flickers.

 

I have lifted it up and let it go a thousand times, still no lights and warning light won't go away. Advice?

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Your post is confusing 2 different problems at the same time :hmm:

 

First.......the brake warning light......

 

Did you have the brake lines apart??? change out a brake master??

 

What everyone wrote is correct, the parking brake pedal sometimes sticks, and does not make contact with the micro switch, causing the "warning" light to come on, if your sure the switch is closed, then you need to check something else.

 

If the brake circuit was opened, as explained above, there is a switch in the distribution block that needs to be reset, the only way to reset the switch is to apply at least 250 pounds of pressure on the brake pedal, so hope your seat in mounted tight, and put both feet on the pedal, and that should "re-set" the switch, and the warning light will go out.

 

Now, back to your tail lights, you wrote that the brake light are working, correct???

 

You have not "marker" or "running" lights, correct???

 

First, check the fuse, I think it's #13 in the fuse block, should be a 10 amp fuse, it also controls the dash lights.

 

You wrote that you also don't have any front marker lights.

 

Could be a problem with the 20 year old main light switch, or more that likely, the front light sockets, that always seams to solve running light problems.

 

Get your brake warning light off, then check the front light sockets, after checking the fuse and main light switch, and check back here.

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