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97+ tachometer works after changing plugs.


Geonovast
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Just got in from finally getting my full gauges into the 99(162k) Cluster came from an 01(123k).

 

I had been informed that the odometer reading information was kept in a swappable odometer 'computer'. After opening the idiot light cluster, I saw a chipboard with the number display for the odometer.

26985_380188049059_762289059_3588899_1258241_n.jpg

 

I removed it, and after the ordeal of tearing the gauge cluster apart, I put my old odometer into the new cluster. Plugged the cluster in, turned the key, and it popped up 123k. :dunno:

 

So I took the 01's odometer, plugged it into the idiot light board, plugged it into the truck, and it brought up the 162k.

 

Is there any way I can get my correct odometer reading?

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There is nothing you can switch between the two clusters to get the correct mileage.

 

The only way is to have someone with a DRBIII reprogram it, so either Jeep, maybe the right indy mechanic, sometimes a locksmith will have one for key-related business.

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Damn... I'd hate to take it straight to Jeep.. I imagine they'd want a couple hundred for it.

 

I wrote down both total mileages, so when I do get the chance.. it'll be correct.

 

Hopefully where my mom works can do it. :dunno:

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Why don't you swap engines with the guy where you got the odometer? That way the engine and odometer will be correct. If you go to that much trouble why don't you swap the rest of the drive train as well? Have everything consistant. :D :popcorn: :cheers:

 

 

Learn as if you are going to live forever. Live as if your going to die tomorrow.

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Why don't you swap engines with the guy where you got the odometer? That way the engine and odometer will be correct. If you go to that much trouble why don't you swap the rest of the drive train as well? Have everything consistant. :D :popcorn: :cheers:

 

 

Learn as if you are going to live forever. Live as if your going to die tomorrow.

 

Hey, if that guy wants to ship the motor and drivetrain to me, I'd be all for that.

 

If only I knew how to get ahold of that guy and convince him to do so. I'll tell him it was your idea.

 

As long as you know what it is, does it really matter? Plan on selling it? :dunno:

 

Rob L.

 

The mild OCD in my brain will never let me live it down. Both MJs have the original speedos because the odometers in the trip speedos haven't matched yet.

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I was always under the impression that the odometer reading was stored in the computer, but that's not the case. I swapped in a used computer from a JY in my '98 XJ and the original mileage remained.

 

I guess this odometer 'computer' is somewhere else on the gauge cluster?

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I was always under the impression that the odometer reading was stored in the computer, but that's not the case. I swapped in a used computer from a JY in my '98 XJ and the original mileage remained.

 

I guess this odometer 'computer' is somewhere else on the gauge cluster?

 

Yup, its somewhere on the main circuit board, not on the cluster readout part.

 

I had the same hopes as all you guys, took it apart and everything, couldn't get the mileage to switch, so I gave up.

 

Gotta have a dealer reprogram the miles for you.

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Well, got a new problem. All the gauges work... except the tach. It's fubared. Sometimes it works... sometimes it gets stuck on one reading, and sometimes it acts like a 3 year old after inhaling 30 lbs of Halloween candy.

 

Is it possible to replace just the tach on these, or am I gonna need a whole new cluster... again?

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Well, got a new problem. All the gauges work... except the tach. It's fubared. Sometimes it works... sometimes it gets stuck on one reading, and sometimes it acts like a 3 year old after inhaling 30 lbs of Halloween candy.

 

Is it possible to replace just the tach on these, or am I gonna need a whole new cluster... again?

 

Pretty sure its a whole new cluster time.

 

round here one would run ya $25 at a picknpull.

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But it's this XJ's fault it got the goofy idiot lights ;)

 

Would it be the fault of the child if it was born with genetic disease? I think not. :smart: :rotf:

 

The tach worked perfectly in the vehicle it came out of. Gauges have needles and needles are mounted on delicate pivots that can jamb, or maybe it's getting faulty signal. Not to hard to check and verify.

 

I'm not doubting that. I'm going to pull the cluster back out next chance I get and see if I can't fond the problem. Wouldn't surprise me if the gauge was shot though, since last time I shut it off, the tach was reading 1900 rpm.

 

It may have just behaved well for you cause it knew you were selling it to me. :dunno:

 

Tach isn't that big of a deal(with it being a *^#$ing automatic), but at least the other gauges work.

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2 ways to check a tach. Basically they're nothing but a milliampere meter reading a pulsating inut voltage and giving a display in RPM. Take a ohm meter set on lowest range . touch the leads to the meter, tach. it should peg. Get a filament transformer, may be hard to find now a days. Find a ham operator. he should have one. Connect the 110VAC primary to a 110 VAC socket. Apply the secondary to the tach input, not the meter. Line voltage=60cps or 3600rpm.

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I go on the assumption that not every one has access to lots of equipment and or the money to take things to a pro.

 

Only reason I have access to lots of test equipment is that I got most of the stuff at a gov auction for about $10 many years ago. :D

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I go on the assumption that not every one has access to lots of equipment and or the money to take things to a pro.

 

Only reason I have access to lots of test equipment is that I got most of the stuff at a gov auction for about $10 many years ago. :D

 

Wanna drive up here and test the tach for me?

 

:rotf:

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NOT. :D Really doesn't do much good anyhow Correy. You can calibrate all the gauges perfectly on the bench, then install the cluster and everything will still be off because of connector corrosion, old or defective sensors that putting out the wrong resistances and supplying fubar voltages to the meter, sticky meter movement, and a lot of other reasons. Calibration works well in a perfect world, but who has a perfect twenty year old or so MJ? :D

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It's a 99 XJ. :hmm:

 

But I know what you're sayin. The oil pressure gauge I can test because I got my mechanical gauge today, I have no reason to doubt the temp gauge, because it's never given any hint of running hot, and the gauge stays right about 205 when warmed up.

 

The tach being fubared isn't really any issue. It would be nice to know RPM, but not necessary. I'm not discounting that I may have somehow screwed something up when I had the cluster apart to change the odo... which of course didn't work anyway.

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