STERLING STINGER Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 since i first put my truck in 4x4 this year, the part time dummy light stays on when disengaged....any ideas? and guys, really I'm sorry for all these simple questions...i know everyones busy. i really appreciate all your help for these last few months. oh yeah....when i was plowing today i saw "smithe" in his cable truck sliding around a corner with a fellow employee following :no: :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 the light is activated by a little vacuum switch. it's possible that it is simply stuck. and please see rule # 2. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1239 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 do you know where this vacume switch is located....and i almost apologized again....i know :shake: thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 my brain wants to say it's somewhere on the pass side of the engine bay. :dunno: Never actually looked for it before since it's either now non-functional or never existed in my trucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richasco Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 Drive side of the T-case above where the shift rail exits the case. Use extreme caution, the vac lines can be very brittle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 yaaaaa...I'm not sure where that is still...pics might help :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richasco Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 Get under the drivers side of your truck and look where your driveshaft attaches. You will see the linkage between the driveshaft and the body of the t-case, look up a little bit and you will see the switch, it will have a big rubber connector with the vac lines on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 i know where u mean cuz mines leaking a little where the driveshaft attaches :fs1: and thank you very much :bowdown: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richasco Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 Sounds like you are having way too many problems with that truck, better give it to me and get yourself a new one. I promise I'll take very good care of it. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 Sounds like you are having way too many problems with that truck, better give it to me and get yourself a new one. I promise I'll take very good care of it. :D rotf....then what will i do for hours a night, and where would i spend ALL my money ill keep both until i die or go broke :no: there alomst brand new now except for cosmetics :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 The vacuum electric switch is located below the battery box. Mine is mounted on the inner fender well,right/side (well it was, the switch is still there but not hooked up) it has a vacuum line and a electric wire going to it. My suggestion is to lock the CAD over, do away with all the vacuum lines and associated hardware and be done with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 My suggestion is to lock the CAD over, do away with all the vacuum lines and associated hardware and be done with it. amen. don't forget to plug the originating vacuum line. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 My suggestion is to lock the CAD over, do away with all the vacuum lines and associated hardware and be done with it. amen. don't forget to plug the originating vacuum line. :thumbsup: What size vacuum caps are needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 Does anyone have a pic of the switch behind the batt box? Mine is stuck on too and I'll either disconnect the switch or pull the bulb from the cluster. CAD is already locked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 CAD? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Central Axle Disconnect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 your the best pete by the way, do you still have that crazy long beard? :redX: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 :dunno: The hair on my chinny-chin-chin has never been longer than maybe an inch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 there are a few different sizes needed so I bought 2 packs of universal vacuum caps, there were enough caps between the two packs to cap all the fittings. I think for 2 packs it was less than six bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 If I could clear something up.......... The '4wd indicator light and switch' is located on the right inner fender, under the radiator pressure bottle, almost next to the firewall. All you need to do is unplug the wire to the switch, and the light will go out. Or, if it really bothers you, you can replace the switch, but I don't think there any replacement switches out there, so, JY. The control switch on the transfer case, yes, this can also cause the light to stay on, but it would also cause the CAD to malfunction, but for a $12 switch, you could replace it. More than likely, the light will remain on. Not every one want to take the CAD off and shift the forks over, I don't, and I've replace the shift motor on a couple of D30's. If you do want to eliminate all the vacuum lines for the transfer case shifter, all you need to do is remove the one line at the Tee, on the right side of the engine, again, under the pressure bottle, and plug that one line going to the transfer case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 :dunno: The hair on my chinny-chin-chin has never been longer than maybe an inch. i thought i saw a pic of u on another post......guess it wasnt u :ack: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 If I could clear something up.......... The '4wd indicator light and switch' is located on the right inner fender, under the radiator pressure bottle, almost next to the firewall. All you need to do is unplug the wire to the switch, and the light will go out. Or, if it really bothers you, you can replace the switch, but I don't think there any replacement switches out there, so, JY. The control switch on the transfer case, yes, this can also cause the light to stay on, but it would also cause the CAD to malfunction, but for a $12 switch, you could replace it. More than likely, the light will remain on. Not every one want to take the CAD off and shift the forks over, I don't, and I've replace the shift motor on a couple of D30's. If you do want to eliminate all the vacuum lines for the transfer case shifter, all you need to do is remove the one line at the Tee, on the right side of the engine, again, under the pressure bottle, and plug that one line going to the transfer case. is this it....and i also found this unconnected hose.......but thats another post..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 Yes, the top left circle is the 4wd light switch. The blue vacuum line, with the check valve on it........that the feed for the transfer case switch, the one you would want to disconnect if your taking the CAD off......I see you already started with that. Of course, if your not, then you want the re-connect that line :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 The way I see it, 20yr old CAD motors fail, I count a bunch of vacuum lines that are possibly getting old and brittle. Jeep did away with the CAD because they seen there was more to be gained with "knowing" that the front was engaged, rather than it might be engaged, maybe. "Hmmm, lets see if the front axle is engaged, well try it out in this big mud hole......" It doesnt take much to lock the CAD over, I feel its worth 'knowing" you have 4x when you need it. Just my 2Cents Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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