Unscheduled maintenance

[Akula69]

Slowly (Very Slowly!!) we have been getting the MJ closer to the paint booth. After this three day weekend we have removed the flares, installed Hornbrod's 97 XJ washer mod, re-aligned the drivers and passenger door hinges, removed the fenders and undercoated under them and inside, installed Mfpdm's door insulation upgrade, completely overhauled the engine bay and rear harnesses, and removed, sandblasted and painted the bumpers.

 

Now, we have decided on the color and purchased the paint, so all we have to do is prime and block the body and remove the engine/trans so we can clean the engine bay (for painting). The entire interior will be removed as well.

 

My question for the community is: If you were going to pull your engine/tranny what would you overhaul (or upgrade) while you were in that process? We no longer have the money for a stroker build (unfortunately) but its just as well as the engine was just gone thru about 12k miles ago. The trans was recently gone thru as well.

 

As always, your opinion is appreciated.

[Eagle]

Rear main seal, front seal, and replace rod and main bearings.

 

Don't know how many miles are on your engine. Being an AMC guy, I made the mistake of assuming. Late 60s early 70s AMC V8s had timing sets that used nylon teeth on the cam sprocket, and when they got old the teeth liked to shear off. Thinking that's what was in my 4.0L 1988 XJ, at somewhere around 180,000 miles I bought a complete timing chain set and opened 'er up. My first clue should have been that the replacement "Cloyes" cam sprocket had steel teeth. But I went ahead -- and found that the original also had steel teeth, and that there was virtually no slack in the old timing chain.

 

By then I figured I might as well put in the new stuff, but I saved the old set and would not hesitate to throw it into an engine that needed a timing chain.

 

My point being -- you may want to check the timing chain, but there's a good chance you don't need one.

[WBKrazy]

i'm in the middle of doing the 4.0 swap into mine, my motor's on a stand right now.... i'm gonna do all the gaskets, all the sensors, throw on a set of poly motor mounts and give it a coat of paint...

[mjeff87]

welch (aka "freeze") plugs

 

check exhaust manifold for cracking, replace if needed

 

motor mounts

 

OFA O-rings

 

Jeff

[Akula69]

I guess it would have been useful if I had posted the actual milage, huh?

 

It had 128K on the clock when the PO went in and installed new mains and a new crank, front and rear crank seals, (did not put in a new oil pump for some unknown reason... :dunno: ). The seals on the oil pan and the valve cover were done as well. I believe that the timimg gears/chain were done at the same time.

 

I do need to replace the O rings on the oil filter adapter, and I am seriously thinking about the filter relocation mod that Hornbrod did. Otherwise, I need to check the water pump for play and have the radiator boiled clean. I do believe that I need to replace the exhaust manifold (and am trying to decide which one to buy). Never thought about the freeze plugs...I'll check on that.

 

We plan to paint the engine and trans as well.

[Eagle]

I don't recommend poly motor mounts. They're bullet-proof, but they transmit a LOT of vibration to the chassis, and with a unibody there are no body mounts to cushion it out.

[freakjeep93]

i don't imagine it be any worse then running boggers.

[WBKrazy]

I don't recommend poly motor mounts. They're bullet-proof, but they transmit a LOT of vibration to the chassis, and with a unibody there are no body mounts to cushion it out.

 

 

yeah, 'tis very true... i already have the poly trans mount so i figured i'd match the motor mounts with it.. i'm not going to be doing any hardcore rock crawling or anything where i'd need the added strength of poly, guess i'll just stick with stock ones...

[Akula69]

It was daymn cold here this weekend (just like everywhere else!) and very little got accomplished outside. Have the lift and the stand now and have ordered the engine leveler and plan at this point to pull the engine/transmission as a unit. Two questions though:

 

1) Has anyone done this easily, and what tips they have?

2) Does the tranny have to be drained first?

 

I did, however, grind the broken studs off of the flare attachment plates and set them up with some nice new stainless steel studs (even did a couple of extra for grins and giggles). Will be stripping the multiple layers of old paint off the flares and prepping them for satin black finish.

[HOrnbrod]

You taking any pics Jake?

[jimoshel]

Drain everything. When you pull the complete motor tranny assy they are going to tilt coming out.Tranny- TC fluid will come out the tail shaft. Even if your careful or not planning on laying the engine on it's side after it's out, accidents happen so drain the engine oil also. Been there. Done that.

[Wildman]

 

And, if you pull the engine, tranny and transfer case as one unit, have plenty of room......the combo is 6 foot, 6 inchs long, and you need to be able to pull the hoist back, or at least roll the truck out of the way. Last one I pulled, I got the tranny jack under the transmission, after pulling the cross member, for rolling support, and had the truck wheels on the ground......once I cleared the front cross member, and had the hoist high enough, I pushed the truck out of the way :brows:

 

Oh, and you might need to add a chain to the tranny to help balance it, even with the leveler.

[Akula69]

Don -

 

No pics yet...but I will start soon. I've got a build thread in here somewhere but when I started this thread I had forgotten about it...so I suspect this will be the 'new' build thread. I have to find a new nickname for the MJ - maybe I'll just call it UM (for unscheduled maintenance, of course :clapping: )

 

Bob -

 

I'm not sure but does the trans have a (lifting) lug on it? (or are you just wrapping the chain around it?)

 

Jake

[Wildman]

No lifting lug on the tranny/T-case, just wrap a chain around it.......bolt/nut/washer connection, about mid point, where the tranny/T-case connect, and bring the chain up to the hook-chain on the hoist.

 

With the weight of the tranny/T-case, it "off sets" the balance of the engine, and of course, wants to drop down, causing you to have a problem getting it past the front axle, and clearing the front cross member.

 

A engine hoist will only go so high, plus, the lower you can keep the hoist arm, well......a little safer too ;)

 

Oh, and the hood, if it's on, you want to get it propped up as high as you can, the OEM prop bar don't allow it to set high enough to clear the hoist arm.

[navigator]

if it hasn't been done recently I would change the water pump.

[Akula69]

I had planned on removing the hood before the operation, and the MJ is 2WD, so hopefully the unit will clear the front without too much height.

 

and I will be checking the timing and water pump when I get it out.