comancheman Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 i have the chance to get a 9 inch for free i was just wondering if anyone had done the swap. Do i definetly have to cut it down? or is it only slightly wider thanks for any help tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 It depends on what slightly wider is? whats the WMS. If it is a big bearing 9" with 31 splines.. its good up to 37-38's with no mods, and with moly axles and some creative building... can hold up to what ever you need. Gears are easier to setup also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 Umm, PROBABLY will need to be cut down. Most of them are in the 64-67" range. There's a few 59-60" out there (EB's). Slightly issue with cutting them down, if you're to get new splines cut on the same shaft, you've got to go quite a bit narrower on one side and offset the pinon. That's because the shafts are necked down after the splining (stree relief) and aren't wide enough for about 5" or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 Free does not necessarily mean it's right for your truck. What would you do to match the wheel bolt pattern? I wouldn't pay much more than $100 for complete 9" so free isn't all that great a deal if it needs seals and bearings and gears. But if you're prepared to do everything that's required to run it, I have a 9" under the back of my 88 and with 8" rims with 4" backspacing, the tires don't stick out much at all. Now the matching full-width Ford front end, now that's a different story. :roll: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheman Posted August 31, 2006 Author Share Posted August 31, 2006 hey pete what exactly did u have to do in order to get it under ur mj. I'm just wondering if this is a practical thing to do or wait for the 8.8. All the seals and bearings are good but i would probably replace them anyway when i gear down. also can i run it with the d30 in the front or is their any reason this wouldnt work. i would have to run different rims in the front then in back in order to match the bolt pattern and width difference but is that a bad thing to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 BAD! Walk away from this axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheman Posted August 31, 2006 Author Share Posted August 31, 2006 why is that, DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted September 1, 2006 Share Posted September 1, 2006 You're going to have a lot of money into this for very little gain. The rear axle is the easy part of any axle swap equation - and should not be a deciding factor. In this case, you will have to either narrow it, or run a fullwidth front. In order to narrow it you're looking at a fairly high cost, as you'll have to get the housing cut down, the bearing retainers welded back on, and the axle shaft cut down and resplined. The only place I know that does this as a package is Currie (IIRC) and it's not cheap. Now, you've got to factor in that the gearing is probably not right, so you're either going to have to buy new gears and have them set up, or find another third member with lower gears. Neither is really cheap (although, I could get a 4.10 9" third for about $100 - they are rare though; as opposed to new gears for $250 and install fee). Also, the bolt patterns still won't match, but you can get adapters to fix this. Now, that's assuming that you're going to narrow it and use the stock HPD30 front. I'll also point out that you've now got a world class rear end, and a darn crappy front end. If you intend to go with larger than 35" tires, you're kinda at a road block. That is, you are now FORCED to build a narrow-width front, or ditch the 9" you've put so much money into. And building a narrow front axle that is stronger than the D30 isn't a huge amount of fun... And if you're to leave it full width and swap in a full width front, things are also complicated. Firstly, you'll need to find a decent ford D44 or better. That can be tough in itself. Then you've got to regear it, weld on the brakets, and etc... It can go down hill in a hurry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpm4x4 Posted September 1, 2006 Share Posted September 1, 2006 It can go down hill in a hurry. I agree, I have a 9" rear in my MJ, and a dana 44 front out of a waggy (I converted the front to match the rear wheel bolt pattern). I was chasing parts all the time and am still not done. :hateputers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheman Posted September 1, 2006 Author Share Posted September 1, 2006 well DC u talked me out of it i think ill wait for the ford8.8 it seems to be the better deal. thanks for the help and keeping me from getting in over my head damn i love comanche club, thanks to all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
square Posted September 1, 2006 Share Posted September 1, 2006 I agree hold out for the 8.8, a friend of mine has run one for 4 year with out 1 problem, it was low miles throught it under as is. most 9" that a worth putting under your jeep are already under someones mustang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 1, 2006 Share Posted September 1, 2006 Don't forget that it's the Explorer/Mountineer 8.8 from 95-01 that you're looking for (pre-95 are also acceptible, just they have drum brakes). Almost all other 8.8s are too wide, too narrow, too expensive, or just plain inferior. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
square Posted September 1, 2006 Share Posted September 1, 2006 Here is no of the best ford tech sites http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.htm tons of info on the ford 8.8 what models/years and **door codes** its always been right so far :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted September 4, 2006 Share Posted September 4, 2006 The only exception to what they are saying is if you want gears past 4.88's, or tires bigger then 37's. 37's can survive on a chromo'd d30, with light throttle use. 4.88 is as low as a d30 goes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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