Windowsrookie Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 I need new ball joints, and was wondering while replacing them if I can throw on the knuckles from a newer style 2WD beam? Or even a Dana 30? I'm assuming they would fit fine, I'd just need to find the dummy spindles that hold the hub assemblies together. anybody know where I could find those? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 AFAIK, based on quite a bit of research, the newer 1994+ 2WD knuckles should work fine on the older 2WD beams. I would like to do this also because it would allow the use the universal 94+ 2WD/4WD front brake rotors and calipers. BUT, since I have not done it, can't say for sure. Best place to find the knuckles of course is from a low mileage XJ at your local PnP, unless you want to go new. Why don't you give it a shot and let me know? :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windowsrookie Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 I would go new, but $247 each is a little more than I'd like to spend on a 1989 2WD beam. :rotf: The spindle is more what I'm concerned about. On the 2WD models there's a "dummy" type spindle correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Understand that. :D The spindle is replacable on the 90 and below 2WDs I'm pretty sure, but on the 91-93 models it's not. I have a 91, so if the spindle goes, you need a new knuckle, it's one piece. I have to dig into the parts manuals to be sure on the 90 and below models, but I'm sure on the 91-93's. But the newer 2WD 94+ drive knuckles should fit both of the 2WD axle beams, and they show a replacable spindle. Wish I could be more helpful, but maybe someone who has actually done this can chime in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 i can look on my 94 XJ to see, but I wanna say as well you can convert them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Why would you need to replace a spindle? They have replaceable bearings. Did a bearing get so bad it started to chew up the spindle along the taper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Couldn't you just use the outer stub shaft from a 4wd axle instead of the dummy shaft? It is just there to hold the unit bearing together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Couldn't you just use the outer stub shaft from a 4wd axle instead of the dummy shaft? It is just there to hold the unit bearing together. I was thinking the same thing. But I can't see ANY reason to make this conversion. It'll mean buying new hubs, new rotors, new calipers, new pads ... and every time a hub goes bad you're looking at another $125 to replace, compared to ... what, for a standard wheelbearing and grease seal? $20? This swap does not strike me as being a great idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Couldn't you just use the outer stub shaft from a 4wd axle instead of the dummy shaft? It is just there to hold the unit bearing together. I was thinking the same thing. But I can't see ANY reason to make this conversion. It'll mean buying new hubs, new rotors, new calipers, new pads ... and every time a hub goes bad you're looking at another $125 to replace, compared to ... what, for a standard wheelbearing and grease seal? $20? This swap does not strike me as being a great idea. I have to agree. I like the spindle style set up with greaseable bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budhound Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 well if you lack the facility and the skills replacing it as one unit instead of repacking a new bearing saves alot of time and headache. But like you guys said for the extra 100 bucks its not worth it. you could replace 6 bearings and repack for the cost of one hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 well if you lack the facility and the skills replacing it as one unit instead of repacking a new bearing saves alot of time and headache. But like you guys said for the extra 100 bucks its not worth it. you could replace 6 bearings and repack for the cost of one hub. Having fought a few XJ/MJ unit bearing assemblies and having repacked conventional front wheel bearings countless times from my gearhead racing/autocross days -- there's no way on God's green earth you can replace a hub bearing unit faster than you can pop the bearings and repack. Not even close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 All true, but the old style one piece hub/rotors are 2 to 3 times the cost of the newer rotors, and are getting harder to find, as well as the old calipers. The wheel bearings are a common size, so they will prolly always be available. Just thinking waaaay down the road it might be cost effective. Not planning on doing it, just thinking. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budhound Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 well if you lack the facility and the skills replacing it as one unit instead of repacking a new bearing saves alot of time and headache. But like you guys said for the extra 100 bucks its not worth it. you could replace 6 bearings and repack for the cost of one hub. Having fought a few XJ/MJ unit bearing assemblies and having repacked conventional front wheel bearings countless times from my gearhead racing/autocross days -- there's no way on God's green earth you can replace a hub bearing unit faster than you can pop the bearings and repack. Not even close. I said if you lack the skills man. once you learn to do it its easy. its like teaching a guy to fish instead of catching dinner for him if you know what i mean. On my MJ I did the front brakes and when looking at the hubs i had the one piece units as well no packing required it looked to me like you had to remove 3 bolts and then the old hub would come off after the brake system is removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 To change the hubs you must: * Remove the caliper * Remove the rotor * Remove the nut holding the axle and hub together * Remove the three bolts holding the hub unit in the knuckle * Beat the old hub unit out of the knuckle. This can take 5 minutes, but more offten it's closer to 5 hours (per side) To pack the old-style bearings you must: * Remove the caliper * Remove the cotter key locking the axle nut * Remove the axle nut * The outer bearing now falls out into your hand * Remove the hub/rotor, pop the seal on the back, and the inner bearing falls out * Pack some grease into the bearings * Install rear bearing in hub, tap a new seal in place * Reassemble 15 to 20 minutes per side would be working slowly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 To change the hubs you must: * Remove the three bolts holding the hub unit in the knuckle * Beat the old hub unit out of the knuckle. This can take 5 minutes, but more offten it's closer to 5 hours (per side) Back out the bols, but don't remove them. Stick another bolt between the head of a bolt and steering knuckle. Start engine, turn wheel, and the power steering system will easily press the hub/unit bearing out of the knuckle. Took me 15-20 minutes to replace a 22 year old hub rust welded in place with 140,000 miles of use. An impact ratchet for the spindle nut is a must have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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