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4x4 donor truck


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finally found another Comanche in striking distance that sounds pretty good. lots of parts I can use, it does appear to be a LWB though but thats ok.

 

so my questions are: you guys think that sounds good for that price? can I just use the t-case on my tranny (i have a BA10/5 and so does the donor truck) or are there variations between the 4wd and 2wd? same wiring and crossmember?

 

link: http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/1254050650.html

 

ps: d35 rear and 3.07 gears - nothing there. it has the NP231 then i guess?

 

thanks

-landlubber

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Have you been looking at donor XJs too?

 

For what it's worth, for a straight 4wd conversion, I'd go to the junkyards. 3.07 gears suck. Find an AX-15 and some 3.55 geared axles and you'll be much happier. :thumbsup:

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Your 2WD transmission has a tailshaft and housing that's set up to accept the yoke on the front of the driveshaft. A 4WD transmission doesn't have a tailshaft housing -- it has an output shaft, that mates to the transfer case. The front yoke of the transfer case goes into the back and of the transfer case.

 

To put that transfer case on your transmission you would have to tear down both transmissions and put the 4WD parts onto your box. Anything is possible, but it's work. The ad implies that truck is driveable -- just swap in the entire tranny and transfer case as a unit. Keep in mind that if you have a shortbed, after the swap you'll have to get a new driveshaft.

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I've been looking at a bunch of XJ's. they all are turning up sour. i have 3.55 gears already :D

would it be easier to pop in the whole other BA10/5? I have a rear driveshaft for something (auto I think), might fit or for a trade.

 

i'd rather pop in an AX-15 but haven't been able to find one. but driveline aside - if the truck isn't too rusty is it worth it for all the other parts and such?

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That MJ in the link is priced very good, But........one thing that's not mentioned is the mileage on the MJ in the add........that would be my first question.

 

I buy MJ's all the time for the $300-400 range, but most have the uni-frames rotted out :(

 

An MJ at that price is worth it, there are other parts that can be re-used too.

 

If the drive train is all in good shape, engine, tranny, transfer case, and you can start it, drive it and check it out, then the best thing is to pull the entire drive train (all 3 items connected) while it out, go thru it, check / replace all the input/output seals, change the RMS and pan gasket, check/replace the clutch, get it all ready to go into your truck, and once you swap the drive train, do what ever other connections you need to do, and your only hold up is the rear drive shaft, which you can take your old 2wd shaft and have cut down and balanced, and install.

 

This is assuming that your replacing a 4.0, 2wd in your MJ now. If your replacing a 2.5 or 2.8, then you need to swap over all the wire harness, both engine bay and interior, including the ECU. Replace the cooling system, and a few other items.

 

The '87 should have a NP231 as a stock X-case, unless it has been swapped out.

 

Yea, AX15 are hard to find, and are way better than a BA10, But, My BA10 and others have been holding up, if maintained, they can serve there duty.

 

If you have a D35 with 3.55 gears, the '87 in the add would have 3.07 stock D30 and D35, you can not mix gears in the front and rear, they have to be the same, so you would need to find a D30 with 3.55 to make it match your rear now. Thats an easy find, lots of XJ with 4.0 and automatics would have the 3.55 gears, and that would be a direct bolt in item.

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d'oh, didn't think of that. did ask for more pictures, forgot to ask how many miles. I do have a 4.0 already, and a D30 out front out of an 03 TJ with 3.55's. basically looking for the cheapest way out that will work untill i want to upgrade or change stuff. I'm not terribly knowledgeable about all the mechanical stuff involved either. should be a good learning experience regardless of what I get.

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Yea, if your swapping a Renix era ('87-'90) with the MJ in the link, your all set to go :yes:

 

If you already have the D30 and D35 with 3.55 gears, thats all good too.

 

You just need to swap over the engine/tranny/X-case, and reuse the front drive shaft, and have your rear drive shaft shorten.

 

The wiring and cooling are all the same.

 

The mechanical part in not all that hard. The best thing is to read topics here, and on other links, like this one - http://www.lunghd.com/ , and ask any questions that come up, and someone will jump in and get ya thru it :D If you have any friends that have the equipment and the experience of swapping engines, thats even better, have them help you, and it will be a smooth sailing experience for you :D

 

I never did an engine swap until about 15 years ago, but I had some one with the experience that show me what to do, and that was on a Ford van (which is about the worst engine swap you can do :ack: ) now, I do them myself, bought the right equipment and have done 5-6 of them, plus pulled a few out of rust buckets. I'm just starting a engine swap on another Ford van too :nuts: Thats this weeks project.

 

With a few pieces of equipment, and a good set of wrenches, and doing some research, you shouldn't have any problems.

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:banana:

 

Man.........it's so much better having the whole truck when your doing a swap job, you never know when your missing something so small, like the X-case shifter, and then you got to go hunting for the part.

 

Plus, what you don't use, I'm sure someone else here could use.......and you'll still get a couple bucks for all the scrap thats worthless :brows:

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I feel like I stole it from the guy almost. but uhaul helped ease my pain ($76) - need to find a car carrier trailer. :roll:

 

anyways, it runs nice, was kinda stuck in 4x4 - came out np though. brakes drag a little. 174k miles, clutch is good, tcase it good. man 4low, never drove anything in 4 low until today. wowzas, even with 3.07s. has just the seats I wanted. rust? what rust? there is almost none... almost. (its perfect rust wise for NE anyways) floors are rusty, but what else is new.

 

came with a TON of parts. pics will explain. I already have someone inserted in the interior pieces, I want the driveline and this and that. think I will sell the empty shell later on. or maybe keep it. idk, might actually fix this up and use it. need to think on it and examine further.

 

anyways, what a haul. had a good day. :banana:

 

ps, photobucket is slower then molasses going uphill in January.

 

picking it up:

 

driving home:

 

stopped at 2 car washes to clean 'er off. cleaned up real nice.

 

gettin it home, off the trailer.

 

mmm, parts:

 

nice seats, and nice gauges.

 

 

jamminz.gif

 

sorry if you are on dial-up

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Nice find!

 

Sorry to go off topic, But is that a Puegot?

 

yep. 505 GL, 86 i think. toyed with the idea of fixing it up. too much stuff wrong with it. it provided an idea storage place for all the parts I got though.

 

grandfolks ditched it ~10 years ago, they ran it into the ground, as they do all their vehicles. the dakota parked behind my jeep has almost 270k miles on it and they still use it regularly and they have a 99 ford explorer with over 210k miles on it.

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pulled off the cap, not meant to be a one man job, but oh well. its very nice fiberglass cap, must weigh ~300 lbs. also took off the front clip - smashed anyways.

 

will be selling excess parts eventually.

 

sweet. jamminz.gif

 

edit:

 

so, after posting this I figured i'd go see if the 4x4 worked nice, so I know where the most muddy regions of the farm are and went straight there, got close, stopped, put it in 4x4 high and went for it. made it about halfway through. there was no power going to the front axle at all as far as I could tell - (i can see the driveshaft and tires through the floor)

 

anyways, took me almost 3 ours to get it out, about 30 gallons of sand, drove out under its own power. on the way back to the barn pops checked the 4x4 again. the clutch is slipping. it is fine in 2wd, but in 4high it slips, and in 4 low it slips even more. can the clutch be adjusted? any other ideas as to what may be the problem?

 

I'm glad I got one with the same tranny. the tranny in my other truck is fine, guess I'm just going to swap over the 4x4 parts. I'm not sure yet.

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edit:

 

so, after posting this I figured i'd go see if the 4x4 worked nice, so I know where the most muddy regions of the farm are and went straight there, got close, stopped, put it in 4x4 high and went for it. made it about halfway through. there was no power going to the front axle at all as far as I could tell - (i can see the driveshaft and tires through the floor)

 

anyways, took me almost 3 ours to get it out, about 30 gallons of sand, drove out under its own power. on the way back to the barn pops checked the 4x4 again. the clutch is slipping. it is fine in 2wd, but in 4high it slips, and in 4 low it slips even more. can the clutch be adjusted? any other ideas as to what may be the problem?

 

I'm glad I got one with the same tranny. the tranny in my other truck is fine, guess I'm just going to swap over the 4x4 parts. I'm not sure yet.

 

bump: I know someone has some wisdom to speak into this matter. :help:

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If our trucks had mechanical clutch linkages then theoretically they could be adjusted too tight not allowing it to fully engage. This would also burn out the throwout bearing quickly as it would be spinning under load all the time.

Clutch is hydraulic(can't be adjusted),even if the fluid level was low that wouldn't directly cause it to slip. Indirectly, the loss of the fluid contaminating your clutch from a failed slave/throwout bearing would.

Your clutch can be "bled" - like doing your brakes. If this was the case, then your clutch wouldn't disengage.

I know this is on your donor truck,but if you have plans on using this clutch,sounds like time for a new clutch assy.

As suggested many times replace the slave with the factory replacement part only. Aftermarket ones seem to have a short service life.

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Quote:there was no power going to the front axle at all as far as I could tell - (i can see the driveshaft and tires through the floor)

Do you mean that the front DS wasn't spinning at all,when the truck was rolling?

 

it spins in 4x4 and you can't move it when you try to twist it (if it at a standstill) and in 2wd it cooperates as it should - not moving and you can twist it with your hand.

 

I don't think any hydraulic fluid leaked - it was full up when i checked. I don't know the last time it was topped off though.

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The clutch doesn't have to be low on fluid to be toast.

Riding the clutch,using it for roll control,two of the worst driving habits (controls wise) that I can think of.

Anybody who uses a clutch like that has been taught to drive a stick incorrectly,IMHO the person who taught them that shouldn't

be driving a stick either.

My dad taught me to drive when I was 10yrs old (on a stick) he told me girls drive like that (ride the clutch).

All girls don't ride the clutch. My 10 yr old daughter doesn't ride the clutch,(she made me put that in).

He taught me that the pedal is either in or out, then your done with it. Granted, he never wheeled like we do but you get the idea.

Clutch disk/linings could be worn out.

Myself I'd replace the whole thing. Clutch disk,pressure plate,throwout/slave assy.Inspect the flywheel for heat stress or cracks,resurface if possible or replace.

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yep i'll probably have to do something like that. its BA10/5 though :ack:. hopefully I can just take the 4x4 parts from the tranny in the truck I just got and put them on the tranny in my other truck and be fine and dandy. don't want to spend too much money on one on those. hopefully it will hold together for a while and then hopefully be replaced by a 4.0 HO and a nice ext slave AX-15.

 

I most likely will fix up the tranny in the MJ I just got, and use it for the 4x4 swap, then I shouldn't have issues with it for a while. and throw the BA 10/5 from the other MJ into this one and sell it... or keep it. :dunno:

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If I'm reading your question correctly, when you put the transfer case into 4w high, the front don't engage, and in 4w low, you have nothing???

 

I don't think there a problem with the clutch, it sounds like a problem with the disconnect in the front axle (D30) which would be the first thing to check, or, at worst, theres a problem with the X-case, like the chain is stretched.

 

You said when you put the X-case in 4wd, you can not turn the front drive shaft by hand, then the X-case might be OK. Still, pull the vacuum disconnect off the front axle, and you can do a vacuum check on it, or, just lock the shifting fork over to the drivers side, and slip the lock ring over, and leave it there, and then check the front axle for engagement. You don't need to go to the mud for this, you can jack the front end up, on jack stands, and turn the wheels by hand.

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the rear tires still spin in 4low, but the problem seems to be exaggerated.

 

I thought of these things - the stretched t-case chain was my first thoughts actually, but was discounted because there was no irregular noise. I haven't been able to check because something in the front end came loose whilst driving back home and so I have no steering atm. didn't get a chance to fix yet, but when that gets all set I'll get 'er back up to the barn and do some checking.

 

this truck still was worth the $250 I paid for it, if I will be able to use the 4x4 components out of it or not. many parts came with the deal.

 

ps. I'm 85% sure this has a posi rear end. will be checking that too, can I swap that over to my D35 with 3.55s?

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ps. I'm 85% sure this has a posi rear end. will be checking that too, can I swap that over to my D35 with 3.55s?

 

Not without re-setting up the gears.

 

 

If you're in 4wd, but the front axle isn't engaging, then it's likely that there's no vacuum getting to the CAD in the front axle.

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  • 3 weeks later...

brought 'er up to the barn after work today and set it up on jackstands to see if the front tires were spinning at all. they aren't. vacuum lines were attached but I didnt check them to see if they were cut or whatnot, everything seemed to be in order. took this opportunity to bolt down the shocks so I'm not bouncing around everywhere. tightened up some loose stuff. didn't check out too much else. def a posi rear end.

 

Not without re-setting up the gears.

 

does that mean I have to use the 3.07's, or just take out the posi element and put it on the 3.55's?

 

this D30 is a HP axle, unlike the LP i have in the other MJ. 4x4 swap will have to wait for a while - next year or this winter most likely, unless someone wants to help me out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

holy crap! check this out - I have seen it on cardomain before but never made the connection. this IS the truck that I have now. :eek:

 

the guy I bought it from said the previous owner took out a 3' lift and stuff. too bad! this would have been SICK, wouldn't have to do anything to it.

 

take a look: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2148210/3

 

sucks! D44, 3'lift, 97+ front clip, light bar, winch.

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Not without re-setting up the gears.

 

does that mean I have to use the 3.07's, or just take out the posi element and put it on the 3.55's?

 

this D30 is a HP axle, unlike the LP i have in the other MJ. 4x4 swap will have to wait for a while - next year or this winter most likely, unless someone wants to help me out.

 

The posi cannot be swapped without re-setting up the gears. And gears are not swappable between LP and HP axles.

 

Have you ever set up gears before?

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