!!need help on oil leak and blown brakes!!

[GirsMJ86]

ok well as some of you may or maynot know my 86 leaks oil bad. it is going to cost too much to have fixed so i am thinking about doing it myself. what i need to know is how hard is it to pull the tranny? the leak is my rear main. the truck is a 1986 2.8L with the auto tranny (not sure which) 4x4 selec-trac. so how hard of a drop is this and what does it consist of? also my brakes went out the other day and i am looking into replaceing the lines. so where can i find some replacement lines? stainless would be great but OEM would work too for now.

 

thanks a bunch.

 

alex

[mjeff87]

If you're doing the work by yourself, rent/buy/beg/borrow/steal a tranny jack so you don't injure yourself :D I'd recommend pulling the TC off first, then the tranny (especially if you aren't using a jack)....it throws the COG off on the whole mess and makes it all want to rotate anti-clockwise when you get it off the back of the engine. Thanks to Chuck :cheers: I learned it's easier to jack the rear of the rig, rather than the front, to get working space underneath (if you want to pull it out from under the rig once you have it down, you'll have to have it high enough to, otherwise you can just move it out of the way and reinstall it). The way I do it is to place a jack under the tranny with a block of wood, drop the driveshafts, then pull the crossmember and lower the whole driveline as far as it will go. Check the fan blades to make sure they don't get into the radiator. Let it all hang there (move the jack under the oilpan area to support), and start unbolting :D Along with the tranny cooler lines and shift cable, you'll have to disco any other electricals to it, pull the bellhousing bolts, and unbolt the torque convertor from the flexplate....then you can slip the tranny off the back of the engine. Safety first...use cribbing or rated jackstands under the axle/framerails while you have it in the air.

[Pete M]

OEM brakes? :hmm: I went to the local auto parts store with the fittings I recovered from the MJ and some measurements and just bought pre-made straight tubing with the ends attached. Get the right pieces and a simple bender and bam, all new lines! :D You'll need 2 or 3 lengths put together to reach all the way to the back (even if that's not the line that burst, it's a common failure point due to rust next to the gas tank). Now is a great time to delete the rear prop valve too. :brows:

[GirsMJ86]

why get rid of the prop valve? i could see getting rid of it on a rock climbing rig but on a mud runner i don't see the point. also i was wondering what options i had to do a rear disc swap at this point also?

 

alex

[bdjr]

how would you get rid and why? what is the advantage? replacing lines after removing bed and i was wondering

 

bill

[mjeff87]

why get rid of the prop valve? i could see getting rid of it on a rock climbing rig but on a mud runner i don't see the point. also i was wondering what options i had to do a rear disc swap at this point also?

 

alex

 

ZJ D35 rear disc assemblies, for plug-and-play :D

[mjeff87]

how would you get rid and why? what is the advantage? replacing lines after removing bed and i was wondering

 

bill

 

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... prop+valve

 

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... +rear+prop

 

 

Enjoy the read.

 

Jeff

[Bounty Hunter]

Bypassing the rear brake bias assembly just makes for a simpler KISS setup, and it's one less brake line to the rear. XJ proportioning valves make a good swap beneath the master cylinder.

[87manche]

agreed on the above points.

It's one less line to worry about, and the less failure points you have the better.

[bdjr]

i think i will just bypass the line and use the good line to run back to my brakes instead of tring to make the 3 new lines i need.

 

bill