james750 Posted March 13, 2009 Posted March 13, 2009 Went to take the front driveshaft off of the truck tonight to fix the problem with the loose dirt shield and yoke. I got the front straps off with no problems. The 4 bolts on the tcase side are giving me a problem. 3 of them came off easy. The 4th one is just rounding off when I turn the socket on the bolt (yes it is a 6pt socket), now the bolt is pretty messed up. :fs1: Ive soaked in PB blaster and it still won't come off. Not sure If I can cut it off with the dremel because the flat part of the bolt (built in washer) is recessed into the yoke a little bit. Any ideas of how to get this thing off?
ren Posted March 13, 2009 Posted March 13, 2009 I have had to weld another nut on to one like that before.
james750 Posted March 13, 2009 Author Posted March 13, 2009 Vice grips can get it done. Yeah, I started with a small set and worked to large, That thing is now VERY round. Its not coming off of there with the grips.
88 Beast Posted March 13, 2009 Posted March 13, 2009 Try hitting whats left of the bolt with a hammer, sometimes that will shock it enough to break it loose. Alittle heat might help too. Good luck
jeepcoma Posted March 13, 2009 Posted March 13, 2009 Use the dremel to square off the rounded edges of the bolt so you can really clamp down with the vice grips. You'll need really big vice grips. You might even need vice grips so big, and to clamp so hard, that you need to use some clamps to get the vice grips to lock. But it'll work. 88 beast is right too, smack the end of the bolt real good with a solid hammer to give it some shock. If you have a helper and enough space, you can also apply torque to your oversized vice grips clamped on the bolt while appling shock via hammer to the end of the bolt (either directly, or put a punch on it or something for extra reach (I hear long craftsmen flathead screwdrivers work great)). If none of that works, try some heat. If THAT doesn't work... make sure you're turning the right way! :D
DirtyComanche Posted March 13, 2009 Posted March 13, 2009 I'd probably just cut the yoke apart with an angle grinder (DeWalt Plasma). A $5 part is not worth a lot of time - espeically when I have tons of spares. I do realize that not everyone is in my position. However, normally those yokes can be found fairly easily.
james750 Posted March 13, 2009 Author Posted March 13, 2009 I'd probably just cut the yoke apart with an angle grinder (DeWalt Plasma). A $5 part is not worth a lot of time - espeically when I have tons of spares. I do realize that not everyone is in my position. However, normally those yokes can be found fairly easily. Is that yoke held in with a snap ring? Can I just use a prybar to pull that yoke out like I do with fwd passenger car axle shafts?
james750 Posted March 13, 2009 Author Posted March 13, 2009 Is there a way to remove the whole tcase side yoke while it is attached to the driveshaft (is it held on by snaprings or a center yoke bolt). That would make it tons easier if I could remove the whole yoke and then worry about getting the bolt out.
Ibby Posted March 13, 2009 Posted March 13, 2009 I think you'll find that yoke is bolted to the output shaft. So until you get the driveshaft off the yoke, you can't unbolt the yoke itself. A neat little trick I use for events like this is to drill out the threads in the yoke with a drill bit the same diameter as the bolts that go in. Then using the original straps, put grade 8 bolts right through the yoke with nuts on the back side. There's plenty of room, just measure for the length of bolt you'll need, go to the local hardware store and you're set. It also makes life easier if you ruin a ujoint on the trail and it snaps a bolt off in the yoke. With this mod you can just push the old bolt out of the yoke, throw a new ujoint and bolt/strap and you're on your way.
james750 Posted March 13, 2009 Author Posted March 13, 2009 Is there a way to easily remove the output shaft with the yoke attached as an assembly?
james750 Posted March 13, 2009 Author Posted March 13, 2009 :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: 4 EFFING hours in and no Effing progress. This would be SO much easier if I knew if the output shaft could be easily removed and if the assembly were out of the truck! :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:
james750 Posted March 13, 2009 Author Posted March 13, 2009 Ok, Ive spent a few hours away from it now. I have formed a new attack plan. Once the Dremel battery is charged, I will use a cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the middle of the head and use a slotted screwdriver to remove. On paper it looks foolproof, but I have learned that things rarely turn out the way they look on paper.
Ibby Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 Is there a way to easily remove the output shaft with the yoke attached as an assembly? No, the yoke has to come off before the housing is removed to get the shaft out.
james750 Posted March 14, 2009 Author Posted March 14, 2009 Yeah, it didn't work. I don't have a welder to weld a nut on so at this point it would seem as if I am SOL. Any other suggestions. So far I have kept time on it and I have spent 8.3 hours on it today. :roll: Anyone have a new idea? I can't get any leverage with a hammer and chisel to smack the head off because it is way too close to the ground. I am SOOOO angry with this thing right now. :fs1: :mad: :wall: :rant: :headpop: :help: :grrrr: :doh:
Geonovast Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 Pull the trans. It's a bit of work but after all this time you've spent on it you'd probably be done by now.
james750 Posted March 14, 2009 Author Posted March 14, 2009 That might be what I'll have to do. First I'm gonna go down in about a 1/2 hour for round 3. :brows: Hopefully that is successful. All of this for a 5 minute Ujoint install! :roll:
mjeff87 Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 use your dremel, or a cutoff wheel or grinding disc on an angle grinder, and take the entire bolt head off down to the surface of the backside of the yoke. Then you can pull the shank of the bolt thru the yoke and deal with getting it out of the cardan later. The threads are in the cardan joint, not the yoke. Jeff
james750 Posted March 15, 2009 Author Posted March 15, 2009 We have success! I got a new sanding wheel for the Dremel and a buddy helped me get the edges sanded down to a rectangle. Then I was able to get a 7mm socket on it and it turned a 1/2 turn before rounding off again. Then I was able to get some vice grip type channel locks on there and turn that thing off. SOOO happy that's over with. :D
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