bhess Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 I am new on this site. I have a 91 comanche. I am puting a 6.5 in lift on with SOA in the rear. My question is do i need to use a slip yoke eliminator kit or can i just get the right angle when doing the SOA and get a longer driveshaft? also what other modifications need to be made with this big of a lift? do i need to use a drop pitman arm. I have upper and lower control arms, adjustable track bar, brake lines, and 6.5 coils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 The drive shaft is long enough that you don't need to use a slip yoke eliminator, although having one does have a few advantages, like being able to take the rear drive shaft out without losing transfer case fluid, or running a drive shaft with an slip joint in the middle (which is actually needed, not optional, when using a SYE,) taking care of drive shaft length issues. Do NOT use a drop pitman arm, as this will cause the drag link and track bar to not be parallel causing bump steer. On top of that it adds enough stress to the steering box that it may actually cause the frame to fail in that area. It sounds like you pretty much have everything you need, except for longer shocks. You may find the ride a bit harsh with the steep angle on the control arms, which can be helped with drop brackets or a long arm kit, but you'd have to decide for yourself if you need them or not. They both have advantages and disadvantages. A longer drive shaft may or may not be needed. I currently run 4.5", but have enough travel in my rear shocks to allow the axle to move up (from weight in the bed) far enough that a longer drive shaft, even 1/2", could cause internal transfer case damage. A SYE would take care if this. Good luck and don't forget to start a project thread with lots of pictures, before during and after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhess Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 Ok thanks. i forgot to mention i do have longer shocks too. I rebuilt my AX-15 and getting ready to put everything back in and if it was a necessity i would do the sye it while i had the transfer case out but i guess ill try it how it is and see how it works. and will I be able to clear 35x12.5in tires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 35 will not fit without trimming the fenders. I believe even with 33s you may have to do some (minimal) trimming on the front. It might be okay sitting on flat ground, but when flexing the suspension while having the front wheels turned, or even leaning out of a turn on the street you may have issues at the front of the front fenders. Ask 89eliminator to be sure, as he runs (used to run?) 6.5" lift, 33" tires, but no cutting that I know of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89eliminator Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 still running 6.5in of lift with 33x10.5s. They do rub the flares when stuffed, even after some minor trimming to the inner fender and flare. I'm not properly bumpstopped so thats part of the reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 If you've got the cash to do it, a SYE is still a very good upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhess Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 How much trimming is needed with 34s or 35s? i figure that i will need to trip part of the fender flares and some plastic but will i need to cut in to the metal?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Why do you feel the need for 34s or 35s? It's only 1/2" or 1" more ground clearance respectively. Not exactly a deal breaker out on the trails, but that extra inch makes a world of difference in the MJ's wheel wells. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 that extra inch makes a world of difference in the MJ's wheel wells. X2 I'm on 35's at about 6".....you need more than "trimming" in the front, trust me. I've trimmed, and rub just pulling in/out of my driveway :rotfl2: Next step for me is to pull the flares and cut the fenders up to the flare line. Reinstalling the flares is an option I haven't decided on yet. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 that extra inch makes a world of difference in the MJ's wheel wells. X2 I'm on 35's at about 6".....you need more than "trimming" in the front, trust me. I've trimmed, and rub just pulling in/out of my driveway :rotfl2: Next step for me is to pull the flares and cut the fenders up to the flare line. Reinstalling the flares is an option I haven't decided on yet. Jeff Hey I will trade you some at's or mt's for them 35's you have. As for why run the bigger tire.... well they are bigger :smart: :dunno: Some times it only takes an inch to make a difference. If you want to keep the uncut look and remain with intact fenders.. don't go to 35's. All the same proper bumpstopping can and does prevent fender rubbing. You just have to decide do you want up travel.. or fenders :???: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhess Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 I don't have any tires yet so i can't trade you. I wanted to get all this stuff figured out before i bought my tires and wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 I'm thinking that post was directed at me......Pat and I have an ongoing parts swap-athon been going on for the last couple years down here in VA :yes: If you do go to 35's, stay with an 8" wheel....part of my problem is that I'm running 15X10's with minimal backspacing (like 3" or so). I have full steering lock-to-lock, but they sure don't stuff well (read: at all) in the front. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhess Posted January 15, 2009 Author Share Posted January 15, 2009 My fenders are starting to rust around the flares especially in the rear so alittle trimming would help me get rid of some of the rust. I was told by someone else to run a 10 in wide wheel and not an 8. so which is gonna be better for 12.5 wide tires and if i do decide to go with 35's? I was looking at either the soft 8 or the D-window for wheels and i think they have 4 in for backspacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 for reference, here's mine on about 6" with 15X10 D-slots and 35X12.5's at the moment. The rear axle WMS is about an inch narrower than the front, as you can see: Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 15x8s will hold the bead better. What axles are you using? Gearing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 Generally tire manufacturers recommend a 10" rim for 12.5" tires. Minimum is 8.5" wheel as per manufacturer, and if you're only going to be driving it on the road I would go with that. But off road you want to be able to lower the pressure without popping the bead, and everyone that responded to my question when I asked a few months back recommends an 8" wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhess Posted January 15, 2009 Author Share Posted January 15, 2009 I got a D35 in the rear with 4.10 but i have it out right now to do the SOA so I'm trying to find a 44 or a 8.8 to swap in. and a D30 up front which i bealive has 3.07 gears, not to sure but the previous owner just put a newer D35 in the rear that had the 4.10 in it with all new bearings and everything. So i need to switch the front gears to match the rear. 4x4 doesnt work because of the different gear ratios. anyone know where i can pick up a cheap 44 or 8.8 with 4.10s or lower? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 car-part.com may be able to help you out. Same with finding a Dana 30 with 4.10 gears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhess Posted January 15, 2009 Author Share Posted January 15, 2009 so your saying it would be easier to find an diff with 4.10's rather than just changing out the ring and pinion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 so your saying it would be easier to find an diff with 4.10's rather than just changing out the ring and pinion? Used XJ d30 with 4.10's should cost around 100-200. To buy the gears 125 and install kit 105, plus labor to install them. So buying the axle with the gear you want is adviseable in this situation. Also the 8.8 can be found in 4.10's with a LSD their prices range from 150 on up... but don't pay more then 350 if you ask me, and that is if it is in GREAT conditon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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