95 H.O. convert. brake lights...

[JeepcoMJ]

1987 jeep comanche.

 

renix sucks.

 

swapping fresh H.O. this weekend. i know all the parts I need, and have everything needed.

 

the only thing I need is to know which wires I'll need to splice for the rear.

 

that is, tail lights, turn signals, marker lights, brake lights, license plate lites, fuel pump, and fuel level sending unit.

 

the wires are at a connector by the e-brake pedal, and I'm swapping all dash wiring, heaterbox, engine, torque converter (trans is already 95, with 87 t.c. and I don't have time to prep the new trans right now), engine wiring, ecu, tcu, radiator, fuel lines, engine accessories, dash accessories, 95 steering column (with air bags and cruise control...air bag turned off), and swap to electronic speedo. I need to make the cherokee harness match the mj harness, or vice-versa.

 

anyone know? or have a 1995 and 1987 wiring diagram I can look at?

 

Thanks a ton

 

-Pat

[troy6187]

i did this with 94 parts. i will look in the morning and take pics and get wire colors for you.

when i did mine i made a jumper that went between both harness' so i didnt have to cut either one. you will also need to run a wire to the turn signal switch for the brake lights.

 

did you know that you have to change the pedal assembly and wiper motor aswell for this swap? and the newer door switches won't fit either.

 

 

ill get pics and details tomorrow and post up. if needed i can give you my # and we can discuss details. it turned into alot more than i ever expected but was well worth it

 

 

 

i also have pdf files for a 88 and 95 fsm. i beleive i got them from great lakes xj site.

let me know and ill do what i can

[JeepcoMJ]

i did this with 94 parts. i will look in the morning and take pics and get wire colors for you.

when i did mine i made a jumper that went between both harness' so i didnt have to cut either one. you will also need to run a wire to the turn signal switch for the brake lights.

 

did you know that you have to change the pedal assembly and wiper motor aswell for this swap? and the newer door switches won't fit either.

 

 

ill get pics and details tomorrow and post up. if needed i can give you my # and we can discuss details. it turned into alot more than i ever expected but was well worth it

 

 

 

i also have pdf files for a 88 and 95 fsm. i beleive i got them from great lakes xj site.

let me know and ill do what i can

 

thanks a ton. I didn't know that I needed to swap the wiper motor, but luckily I have that from the 95 too. which door switches? I've got manual windows currently, but am upgrading to the 95 power motors wiring and locks and switches.

 

why do I need to run a wire to the turn signals? what's the difference?

[troy6187]

the door jamb switches for the dome lights are different. renix uses a one wire switch that breaks ground and ho uses multi wire switches. and the ho ones are bigger and will not just screw into the existing hole. easy fix though, just drill the hole a little larger and retap for the bigger switch.

 

 

cherokees have separate brake and turn lights in the rear and comanches are combined. this is also an easy fix, the turn signal switch is used to combine the two. all you do is run one wire from the brake light switch to the turn signal switch plug. i fought with this for awhile until chico pointed me in the right direction.

 

 

alot of the small things that plug into the harness like speakers and courtesy lights also have different plugs. the only differance in the heaer box is the temp sensor for the ac. if you don't have ac then its not neccesary.

 

you will also need to reverse the two fuel gauge wires where they come out of the tank so the gauge will swing in the right direction. it won't be real accurate but it will swing correct. I'm not sure when the change was for this so maybe a ho mj sending unit may fix this. not sure. this list keeps growing as i remember more stuff.

 

 

717-635-0444.... mike

call me anytime tomorrow or saturday if you have any questions or need a better explanation of something. ill answer what i can but sometimes its easier talking so someone than typing.

[JeepcoMJ]

the door jamb switches for the dome lights are different. renix uses a one wire switch that breaks ground and ho uses multi wire switches. and the ho ones are bigger and will not just screw into the existing hole. easy fix though, just drill the hole a little larger and retap for the bigger switch.

 

 

cherokees have separate brake and turn lights in the rear and comanches are combined. this is also an easy fix, the turn signal switch is used to combine the two. all you do is run one wire from the brake light switch to the turn signal switch plug. i fought with this for awhile until chico pointed me in the right direction.

 

 

alot of the small things that plug into the harness like speakers and courtesy lights also have different plugs. the only differance in the heaer box is the temp sensor for the ac. if you don't have ac then its not neccesary.

 

you will also need to reverse the two fuel gauge wires where they come out of the tank so the gauge will swing in the right direction. it won't be real accurate but it will swing correct. I'm not sure when the change was for this so maybe a ho mj sending unit may fix this. not sure. this list keeps growing as i remember more stuff.

 

 

717-635-0444.... mike

call me anytime tomorrow or saturday if you have any questions or need a better explanation of something. ill answer what i can but sometimes its easier talking so someone than typing.

 

 

okay, thanks. I have the proper door switches as well though I didn't know they were different. doesn't switching that wire reverse the direction the fuel pump rotates in?. I was just intending to switch the ground and power for the sending unit, though I really haven't lookked at it yet (It won't be a hard project i think).

 

swapping the heaterbox anyways just because it's got a fresh heater core and condenser, and the proper sensor.

 

it's gonna be interesting...the primary concern is to get the wiring in the dash, engine in, wiring in the engine bay, and finish all of that right away...then I want the fuel pump to be the next thing and I'm worrying about turn signals and lights for last. stereo is all aftermarket anyways.

 

basically I have everything but the cherokee body and axles.

[troy6187]

you don't wanna switch the wires for the pump just the sending unit. and you don't even need to do that, if you don't the gauge swings backwards. so when full it reads empty and the low fuel light will come on. possibly a theft deterent if you keep it full or close to full all the time :idea:

 

 

 

when i started that project i figured it would be a stright swap... it turned into alot more. but it sounds like you have everything you need so shouldnt be that bad. ill post pics tomorrow as soon as i can of the wiring.

[JeepcoMJ]

you don't wanna switch the wires for the pump just the sending unit. and you don't even need to do that, if you don't the gauge swings backwards. so when full it reads empty and the low fuel light will come on. possibly a theft deterent if you keep it full or close to full all the time :idea:

 

 

 

when i started that project i figured it would be a stright swap... it turned into alot more. but it sounds like you have everything you need so shouldnt be that bad. ill post pics tomorrow as soon as i can of the wiring.

 

 

thank you so much. it is alot...as you're saying what you had problems with, I'm realizing that I didn't even really think of all of the little things, but am lucky that I took them all out of the donor (90k mile rust free xj gone hardcore project). I will definitely be calling you this weekend on saturday if I have any questions...tomorrow I won't be starting until 5pm or so, and at that point all I'm doing is gutting the jeep and dropping the new motor in (potentially...I may decide to paint...)

 

I think I'm gonna need some vodka and redbull this weekend to keep my sanity.

[mjeff87]

you don't wanna switch the wires for the pump just the sending unit. and you don't even need to do that, if you don't the gauge swings backwards. so when full it reads empty and the low fuel light will come on. possibly a theft deterent if you keep it full or close to full all the time :idea:

 

That's what I'm doing....I'm running an HO pump assembly from a longbed in my Renix. Just gotta remember that "empty" = full tank, and visa versa ;)

 

Jeff

[troy6187]

[

That's what I'm doing....I'm running an HO pump assembly from a longbed in my Renix. Just gotta remember that "empty" = full tank, and visa versa ;)

 

Jeff

 

 

 

that confirms that i need to buy a newer sending unit to have an accurate gauge. switching the wires makes it swing the correct way but resistance differences make it float. 75+ miles after it hits empty

[mjeff87]

I won't say that my gauge is anywhere near accurate, but at least it gives me a general idea of how much is in the tank :yes: Mine's not a DD anymore, and I pretty much drive it by the odometer (fill it around 125-150 miles or so).

 

Jeff

[HOrnbrod]

that confirms that i need to buy a newer sending unit to have an accurate gauge. switching the wires makes it swing the correct way but resistance differences make it float. 75+ miles after it hits empty

 

The fuel gauge inaccuracy is due to the difference in the resistance value of the fuel gauge sender potentiometer. This can be corrected by adding a resistor in series in the output to add resistance, or adding resistance in parallel across the pot to lower the resistance. I posted the two pot values some time ago here, but can't seem to find them now. :eek:

[troy6187]

sorry bout no pics yesterday... broke the camera. if you call me later this afternoon i can give you the wire colors, etc. if you have any other questions feel free to call as i won't be anywhere near a pc. chipped spider gears in my 8.8 means spending the day regearing it and reinstalling it. yay! 456s!

[ComancheKid659]

Maybe this will help. you probably already know some of this but hear goes. it should be a black 16 pin connector. Pin 1 DG/TN is fuel pump; pin 2 TN/DG is R T/S; pin 3 is 2 wires DB/RD Tail Lts; pin 4 DB is Fuel Gauge; pin 5 BR/LG is Rev Lts and pin 14 WT/TN is Stop lts.

[JeepcoMJ]

Maybe this will help. you probably already know some of this but hear goes. it should be a black 16 pin connector. Pin 1 DG/TN is fuel pump; pin 2 TN/DG is R T/S; pin 3 is 2 wires DB/RD Tail Lts; pin 4 DB is Fuel Gauge; pin 5 BR/LG is Rev Lts and pin 14 WT/TN is Stop lts.

 

 

thanks, but which does this apply to? is that the 87 connector or the 95 connector?

 

 

I've got the motor and engine bay harness out, now it's time to yank the steering column then clean the engine bay and get it painted. while the paint is drying, I'll be removing the rest of the dash and it's respective wiring.

[ComancheKid659]

Thats the 95. I'm doing the same thing for my sons 87. the connectors on the 87 are different. I spent about 4 evenings modifing the cherokee harness. The 87 was a flat 8 weather pack and a small square one I don't remember very well. I could look, the kick panel is still off.

The older diagrams arn't as good but hear is the info: Look for a DB Stop Lts: WT Tail Lts; Tan Fuel Gauge; Pump is OR/BK on one side of connector and PNK w/tracer (no color given); Gray w/tr is L T/S; BR is R T/S and Rev Lts are BR w/tr.

I checked on that fuel gauge issue too. It looks like the older trucks use a 0 mt 88 full sender and the HOs use 5 mt 105 full from 91-94. No info was given for 95/96. I don't know why it would run backwards but we'll find out right. Something to snag when you come across at the yard.

You need to route the park brake wire to the PBP and like mentioned re route the WT/Tn wire from the connector to the plug under the column for the multfunction sw. There is no wires for the brake lits on an MJ they run thru the TS wires.

[ComancheKid659]

One other thing. There are interior lights, seat belt lts and cargo lights that route thru those connectors down there also. I also pulled the Fog Lt Sw and wires and Cargo Lt Sw and wires from the old harness. I removed the Heated Window stuff and Wiper/Washer stuff and replaced them w/the Comanche stuff. Something to think about.

 

You mentioned that your using the 95 Column. I have a 95 Xj and have been looking at it when I have questions about how things route or where they go and it looked like the column mnts were diferent. But then every thing looks a little diferent when your upside down :rotf: Let us no if it works.

[JeepcoMJ]

still haven't gotten the wiring done, alldata doesn't show those connecters :mad: .

 

anyways, went to swap the pump today and see that the H.O. pump is HALF the size of the renix pump, and there is no possible way to swap the MJ boot onto it, much less mount it.

 

wtf did you guys who did the swap do?

 

-Pat

[troy6187]

i just left the renix pump in the tank and hooked that up. been working like that for over 6 months.

[JeepcoMJ]

i just left the renix pump in the tank and hooked that up. been working like that for over 6 months.

 

well, i guess that is what I'm gonna do for now...and when I get a chance I'll build a spare sending unit with a H.O. pump. only problem I have is 24 lb injectors...idk if that will pose a problem to the pump or not.

[BLHTAZ]

only problem I have is 24 lb injectors...idk if that will pose a problem to the pump or not.

It's possible as the 24lb injectors should not be in a stock HO engine. The 24's were only used in the later model HO's...or for strokers. My '95 HO uses the same injector as my '88 Renix.

[HOrnbrod]

well, i guess that is what I'm gonna do for now...and when I get a chance I'll build a spare sending unit with a H.O. pump. only problem I have is 24 lb injectors...idk if that will pose a problem to the pump or not.

 

The largest injectors Mopar used in a stock HO motor were the the #53030778 gray tops (23.2lb/hr @ 49psi). These were used in the 96-98 models. I am using these in my stroker, and at first they ran rich until we cranked down the fuel pressure. But since I stuck on the 2000 intake, the f/p is now back up to 46# for the best overall A/F ratio. I can almost guarantee 24# injectors will be too much for a non-stroked engine unless an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and/or an adj. MAP is fitted to regulate them. And if you're keeping the Renix fue; pump, I have no idea how that will work w. fuel delivery.

[JeepcoMJ]

there are two connectors going to the rear on the MJ harness...one of them is for speakers and interior wiring such as the cargo light and dome lights, the other goes to the tail lights.

 

anyways, I tore the xj rear wiring apart and removed everything from the rear doors on back, then cut it all apart and removed the fuel pump connector, then swapped the two pins on my fuel pump connector to reverse polarity.

 

dug through my parts and found a junk 2.5 interior harness from an 89 MJ, then cut the two connectors out so I could make an adapter connector.

 

I'm going back outside to put the fuel pump back in it (which has proven to be an absolute b*@$£ because of the slosh tray inside the tank), then to drop in the distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, starter, and battery wiring.

 

will be working on it until it's running tonight...I've found the two fuel pump wires in each harness so that's all I need for it to run.

[mvusse]

I find the larger PIA is not the slosh pan, but the little bracket the grommet on the bottom of the return line fits into.

[JeepcoMJ]

I find the larger PIA is not the slosh pan, but the little bracket the grommet on the bottom of the return line fits into.

 

*shrug*

 

i wasn't even aware of this. didn't drop the tank, exhaust, or rear driveshaft to do the job, because each of those removals suck to do.

[JeepcoMJ]

:yes: :clapping: :banana: :banana: RUNS AWESOME! :cheers: :brows: 8) :bowdown:

 

I've just got to top off all fluids, put the proper coolant temp sender in, install the dust shield on trans, install the transmission shifter, connect the crossover pipe to the catalytic, hook up a few small vacuum items, splice the trans. control switches in, splice tail lights, aand re-install the kneeboard and center console.

 

oh, she sounds BEAUTIFUL while doing a peel btw :rotf: