smithe1811 Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 Ok, I'm not 100% sure which t-case i have :dunce: , but i took the manche out in the snow today for the first time since i got it, slapped it 4 wheel drive and off i went. everything was fine and dandy until i got up around 25mph, i kept popping in and out of 4, it wasnt constant and it was only for a split second when it did. now i know the 4 wheel drive worked when i got it because i tested it, on and off road :hmm: . :huh???: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summerinmaine Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 Ok, I'm not 100% sure which t-case i have :dunce: , but i took the manche out in the snow today for the first time since i got it, slapped it 4 wheel drive and off i went. everything was fine and dandy until i got up around 25mph, i kept popping in and out of 4, it wasnt constant and it was only for a split second when it did. now i know the 4 wheel drive worked when i got it because i tested it, on and off road :hmm: . :huh???: Intermittent vacuum leak? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 i'd adjust your linkage first. if it pops out, i bet thats the problem. IMO the best way to adjust it is to loosen the adjustment bolt on the shift rod and manually shift the case into 4Lo then tighten the bolt back up. presto, your done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summerinmaine Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 i'd adjust your linkage first. if it pops out, i bet thats the problem. Why would mal adjustment cause it to pop out, then pop back in? And the fact that it's speed dependent? :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheBSJ90 Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 First: How do you know it's popping in or out if it's only for a split second? I would suspect Drive Line Wind Up. Are you using different tires in the front and the rear. By different, I don't necessarily mean 235-75-15, I mean that size but different makes or tread patterns of that size? Is it a clunk or bang every 10 to 45 seconds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithe1811 Posted December 17, 2008 Author Share Posted December 17, 2008 First: How do you know it's popping in or out if it's only for a split second?I would suspect Drive Line Wind Up. Are you using different tires in the front and the rear. By different, I don't necessarily mean 235-75-15, I mean that size but different makes or tread patterns of that size? Is it a clunk or bang every 10 to 45 seconds? Tires are the same all the way around, same tread and evenly worn. And it is a clunk every 10 to 45 seconds and when it happens my part time light goes out and comes back. Erik :beerhead: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithe1811 Posted December 17, 2008 Author Share Posted December 17, 2008 i'd adjust your linkage first. if it pops out, i bet thats the problem. Why would mal adjustment cause it to pop out, then pop back in? And the fact that it's speed dependent? :dunno: Everything works fine at slower speeds, then after i made it to 25 mph, it would start acting up no matter what speed, unless i went back to 2wd, and then back to 4. then it would be fine until around 25. Erik :beerhead: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 Maybe your CAD is popping in and out due to a vacuum leak? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheBSJ90 Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 Is the noise consistent in both 4hi and 4lo? Or does it hardly happen in 4lo? Does the noise repeat more frequently on higher traction surfaces? Have you checked the oil in your drive drain? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reson46 Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 If your transfer case is stock, it is most likely a part time transfer case. Which means you should only use 4WD on low traction surfaces - gravel, mud, dirt, etc. If you are in 4WD on pavement it will cause binding and/or damage. I would not be surprised if this binding is causing your problems. Even if it is snowing or icy do not use part time 4WD on paved roads unless the road it completely covered with ice or snow. This will actually decrease your traction. On the dry pavement your drivetrain will bind. When you hit a patch of snow or ice your drivetrain will unbind and slip whichever tire or axle was bound up resulting in a loss of traction. Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 I'm guessing at the vac disco system in the axle. Might be a vacuum leak. Easiest way to fix the problem would be to disconnect the vacuum lines, and shim the fork to always be engaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheBSJ90 Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 I'm guessing at the vac disco system in the axle. Might be a vacuum leak. Easiest way to fix the problem would be to disconnect the vacuum lines, and shim the fork to always be engaged. If this approach was taken what adverse affects would it have on the drive line? If none, why was stock not setup this way? Drag reduction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 It was Jeep's attempt at reduced drag to increase gas mileage. Didn't work to any measurable degree. Not all Jeeps came that way, and fixing the CAD so it's engaged all the time will make your Jeep just like the rest of them, including all XJs since ~93 and wranglers since 97. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithe1811 Posted December 18, 2008 Author Share Posted December 18, 2008 I'm guessing at the vac disco system in the axle. Might be a vacuum leak. Easiest way to fix the problem would be to disconnect the vacuum lines, and shim the fork to always be engaged. Have you done this? got any pics or detailed description? Erik :beerhead: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 Have not done so myself yet, but many others have. I will before the next wheeling trip, as I lost my vacuum lines on the trail last time. Took me more than 1/4 mile before I realized my front axle was not pulling... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 It's a simple process really... -Remove the CAD cover from the axle. -remove the e-clip holding the shift fork in place. -Slide the shift fork over to the locked position. -out the e-clip back in place to hold the fork in the locked position. -slide the lock ring over to engage the two shafts. -install the CAD so that the fork is back on the ring and holding it in place in the locked position. Should take all of 20 minutes :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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