Jump to content

Shimming the CAD D30?


Recommended Posts

I've heard of this technique in case the vacuum fails, and so it occurs to me that I should carry a few washers as a back-up when I'm down in Baja. Anyone know what size washers I should carry, and how many? Anything else work besides washers?

 

I'm sure I could figure it out by pulling the housing, but it would be nice not to have to do that until necessary.

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Various methods have been posted here. The simplest seems to be to remove the E-clip from the sfat, slide the shaft over to the engaged position, then reinstall the E-clip on the other side of the fork.

 

Why don't you just do it at home, before you leave for Baja? That way you won't ever have to worry about it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

does any one know of a good how to on doing this?
I'm sure there are write-ups out there on it, but the easiest thing I have seen is to pull the CAD assembly off of the axle, remove the retaining clip, slide the shift fork over in to the locked position and then put the retaining clip back on and it will keep the assembly engaged all the time.

 

I have also seen people take a stack of washers, remove the fork and shim it with the washers so it can't move.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried shimming the fork last vinter since my vac thingy didnt work. Lasted for about 15min in the sand&mud before the shift fork broke straight off, leaving me with just 2wd. As an emergency trail fix i opend the cover, tossed that :mad: broken fork as far as i could into the forest, then i just moved the slider over to engaged position and secured it with a thight hose clamp around the axle shaft itself. This "temporary" fix have worked just fine for almost a year...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

moved the slider over to engaged position and secured it with a thight hose clamp around the axle shaft itself. This "temporary" fix have worked just fine for almost a year...
I have heard of this method too.

The fork breaking is rare, but I have heard of a couple other people having that problem.

 

The best thing to do is convert it to the one piece shaft and not fool with the band-aids :idea:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the replies! Since my to-do list is pretty long before the Baja1000, I'll probably just rely on a hose clamp (I usually carry 4-6 of them) and plan on that temporary fix if things go south.

 

Then I have until early March to re-gear (4.11 or 4.56), replace axles, and do all the other fun things.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We've been doing the washer mod for years without any ill effects. I've heard of people breaking the fork but to this day I can not understand why people are breaking them. The fork when spaced over shouldn't have any load on it. It's only job is to push the sleave over both sides of the shafts, thus making it one shaft. Their really shouldn't be any "load" on the fork itself.

 

4x4 PosiLok sells a cast iron fork that shouldn't ever break. But at ~$55 for it your better off upgrading to the 1-peice shaft with a 297x u-joint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We've been doing the washer mod for years without any ill effects. I've heard of people breaking the fork but to this day I can not understand why people are breaking them. The fork when spaced over shouldn't have any load on it. It's only job is to push the sleave over both sides of the shafts, thus making it one shaft. Their really shouldn't be any "load" on the fork itself.

 

4x4 PosiLok sells a cast iron fork that shouldn't ever break. But at ~$55 for it your better off upgrading to the 1-peice shaft with a 297x u-joint.

My gues is they don't get the sleeve all the way over. The disconnect sleeve works basically like a synchronizer in a manual transmission. Most of you who drive standards will probably admit to having bobbled a shift once in awhile and not gotten the synchro fully engaged. When you let up the clutch, the shift handle snaps back to the Neutral gate -- with quite a bit of force. I'm guessing that if the same thing happens inside a CAD, the force of the sleeve popping off the outer half shaft would easily be enough to shatter the cast shift fork.

 

Just be certain you have the sleeve FULLY engaged and there should be no problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is there an acronym page around here? CAD = ? SFAT = ?

 

Thanks!

 

Tom

:yes: You would think there should be, but it's just a learning curve. CAD = Central Axle Disconnect

 

Don't be affraid to ask any time as you have done here :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If anyone wants one, feel free to make one in the DIY forum. :thumbsup:

I posted a start. It's in alphabetic order. Feel free to add anything I missed, and I gues Pete or I will stop by periodically to move the additions up into the original post so it can remain alphabetical.

 

(Pete, I hope you don't mind my volunteering you.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...