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Spring over preches


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I chose the Rubicon Express anti-wrap perches when I did the SOA on our YJ, but I went with stock springs and it is primarily a rock crawler so I wanted to use the long perches to avoid the spring wrap. If you are not going to use the truck in any extreme situations where you are putting a lot of torque to the rear then go with the regular perches and save the money. :cheers:

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I like the MOPAR factory perches. They are CHEAP and very well made. Think mine where 12 or 16 bucks for the set.

 

Easily modified for the smaller D35 tubes.

 

CW

 

How much lift are they worth with the stock springs? Do you get them through a dodge garage?

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I chose the Rubicon Express anti-wrap perches when I did the SOA on our YJ, but I went with stock springs and it is primarily a rock crawler so I wanted to use the long perches to avoid the spring wrap. If you are not going to use the truck in any extreme situations where you are putting a lot of torque to the rear then go with the regular perches and save the money. :cheers:

 

How much lift are they worth with stock springs?

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I chose the Rubicon Express anti-wrap perches when I did the SOA on our YJ, but I went with stock springs and it is primarily a rock crawler so I wanted to use the long perches to avoid the spring wrap. If you are not going to use the truck in any extreme situations where you are putting a lot of torque to the rear then go with the regular perches and save the money. :cheers:

 

How much lift are they worth with stock springs?

I'll have to go measure them to be exact, but I believe that they were around 1" to 1.5"... It's been over 4 years now since I did it ;)
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I used the MOPAR perches, got 'em from Jegs....when I SOA'd mine, I'd say they were good for about 1/2-3/4" lift. But, they are cut (radiused) for the axletubes on an 8-3/4" axle. They worked on the D44 I was putting in with a good amount of stick weld (thanks Pat!), but I don't know how well they would work on D35 tubes.

 

Jeff

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They would work fine.. not much if any difference in the size of the axle tubes. Just need someone who knows his way around a welding machine. Heck I have been known to weld up3/8 to 1/2" gaps in one pass with the tombstone. :eek: Can weld bigger ones with a backing strap :brows:

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The Mopar perches are extremely heavy duty, a bit longer than the stock perches, and CHEAP. That price CW quoted is for a pair, not each. When I went to order them at my dealership, he gave me the price and I said "Huh? That's gotta be for one, better order me two."

 

So they did. And that's what I received -- two PAIRS of the nicest, heaviest spring perches I've seen this side of a Mack truck.

 

They are in the Mopar Performance Catalog, they are not specific to Jeeps. You can order them at any Mopar dealership.

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The Mopar perches are extremely heavy duty, a bit longer than the stock perches, and CHEAP. That price CW quoted is for a pair, not each. When I went to order them at my dealership, he gave me the price and I said "Huh? That's gotta be for one, better order me two."

 

So they did. And that's what I received -- two PAIRS of the nicest, heaviest spring perches I've seen this side of a Mack truck.

 

They are in the Mopar Performance Catalog, they are not specific to Jeeps. You can order them at any Mopar dealership.

 

Not to highjack, but you got a part #? And is there a difference in part #'s for the D35 and D44?

 

:cheers:

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Be advised, the hole for the center pin is a tad larger than stock. Nothing a little creativity can't solve though ;)

 

Jeff

Jeff brings up a key point here. Most aftermarket perches have a larger hole for the center pin. Not having the correct size hole (or the correct size center pin if you run aftermarket perches) can/may lead to having your leaf's break. What happens is the leaf may shift back and forth a bit, thus causing stress and it will eventually break at the center pin hole.

 

You also need to consider the length of the perch in relation to the arch of your leaf springs. If you have to long of a perch when you tighten everything down it will essentially "flatten" the arch of the leaf, thus not giving you as much lift as you wanted, and also causing stress to the pack.

 

Just something to consider as Jeff pointed out above.

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http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar+Performance/312/P4120074/10002/-1#

 

Be advised, the hole for the center pin is a tad larger than stock. Nothing a little creativity can't solve though ;)

 

Jeff

 

 

what do you mean

 

Didn't you read the 3-4 page my post called another Rusty's rant???

 

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11788

 

The perch's shown as well as how to make the centering pin work is completely outlined there. :brows:

 

CW

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And is there a difference in part #'s for the D35 and D44?

As stated, they are from the Mopar Performance Catalog and not specific to Jeeps. No, there are not different part numbers. The perches are cut to fit the tubes on a Chrysler 8-1/4 axle, which means they are a loose fit on both a D35 and a D44. You either grind the arc to fit the axle, or fill in the gap at the ends with weld metal.

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Spring over will get you about 5" lift correct? When I did my lift and axle swap on my XJ, I used u-bolt eliminators. They come in different heights and different axle tube diameters. I used the ones with 1.5" lift. That would get you to 6.5"'s of lift.

Good luck

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SOA in the rear will net you a min. of 5.5". Most see right at 6.5" of lift with a SOA on the MJ's using the factory shackle.

 

It will be based on what leafs your using (4wd, 2wd, or metric ton). It will also be based on what leaf perches you use. Some perches sit higher than others so you'll get more lift simply due to that fact.

 

The majority of people who go SOA will run a 6.5" coil in the front to make it look "level".

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