two things

[f1tbiker6]

I'm planning to do a 4wd swap somewhat soon and i need to know every little thing i will need. i mean everything.

 

also ive got 4.5" springs in the front. and i did SOA in the rear. i bought 1.75" spacers for the front so i can level it out but i realized i need longer LCA's. i also need to know what else i need to get in order to run the 1.75" spacers. lengths and measurements would be helpful too. ive got the rustys soa kit so keep in mind i have the sway bar drop brackets.

[JeepcoMJ]

first lift advice is to DUMP anything that you have made by RUSTY"s CRAP. there's a reason it's called rusty's.

 

next, i hope to hell that you have aftermarket control arms...

 

then on to what you'll need.

 

transmission. no, your transmission will not work with a transfercase.

transfercase

front driveshaft

rear driveshaft (they are different, you will have to have yours shortened

after you finish with everything else

4x4 shifter and linkage. including the body-side pivot bracket (bolted to

the trans-tunnel)

front axle. end-to-end. you will need the brake rotors and calipers from the 4wd axle as well.

 

depending on whether or not your front axle is a disconnect axle, you may need the vacuum hoses etc. if you intend to do a stock build. if you use a disconnect axle with the vacuum hoses, you also need the transfercase equipped for that option. otherwise, you can remove the vacuum part by locking it over, or installing a non-disconnect shaft.

[BREEZE1]

My biggest problem was the pilot bearing. Witch isn’t that big of a problem at all. I had to get one for a cj and machine it out to fit the shaft on my transmission. You can check out my link and see how I did it. All in all the conversion is pretty much a Breeze!!! Just remember to have fun. Have you a few cold brew dawgys in the process!!!! :cheers:

[JeepcoMJ]

My biggest problem was the pilot bearing. Witch isn’t that big of a problem at all. I had to get one for a cj and machine it out to fit the shaft on my transmission. You can check out my link and see how I did it. All in all the conversion is pretty much a Breeze!!! Just remember to have fun. Have you a few cold brew dawgys in the process!!!! :cheers:

 

keep in mind that the pilot bearing is only a problem if switching from a ba10/5 5 speed manual transmission to an ax15 5 speed manual. if you're keeping the same transmission that is in the vehicle, it is a non-issue.

 

automatics don't have pilot bearings, so the problem is nil there too.

[f1tbiker6]

first lift advice is to DUMP anything that you have made by RUSTY"s CRAP. there's a reason it's called rusty's.

 

next, i hope to hell that you have aftermarket control arms...

 

then on to what you'll need.

 

transmission. no, your transmission will not work with a transfercase.

transfercase

front driveshaft

rear driveshaft (they are different, you will have to have yours shortened

after you finish with everything else

4x4 shifter and linkage. including the body-side pivot bracket (bolted to

the trans-tunnel)

front axle. end-to-end. you will need the brake rotors and calipers from the 4wd axle as well.

 

depending on whether or not your front axle is a disconnect axle, you may need the vacuum hoses etc. if you intend to do a stock build. if you use a disconnect axle with the vacuum hoses, you also need the transfercase equipped for that option. otherwise, you can remove the vacuum part by locking it over, or installing a non-disconnect shaft.

 

i have after market control arms but they arent adjustable so i need new ones to run the spacers. what length upper and lower should i buy to run the 1.75" spacers. ad is there anything else i need to modify to run them.

 

also what transfercase ad transmission should i get?

[JeepcoMJ]

i have after market control arms but they arent adjustable so i need new ones to run the spacers. what length upper and lower should i buy to run the 1.75" spacers. ad is there anything else i need to modify to run them.

 

also what transfercase ad transmission should i get?

 

control arms will be the lowers will be around 17 and 3/16", while the uppers will be around 15 and 5/8" long from center of bolt to center of bolt. you won't find a fixed set that are those exact measurements.

 

my suggestion, buy some adjustables that are for between 4.5" to 6.5" of lift. the other thing you can do would be to run some control arm drop brackets...which will improve handling with short arms at 6.25" of lift...6" of lift and higher kinda sucks for handling with short arms.

 

I'd buy the Rough Country adjustable control arms. idk how adjustable your track bar is, but you may need to replace that, and you will also need to either extend your brake hoses, drop them lower (if you can), or get new lines (jeep wrangler YJ lines from 87-95 work well).

 

transmission. well, idk if yours is a auto, 5 speed, or what motor you even have, so I can't tell you that...

[f1tbiker6]

i have after market control arms but they arent adjustable so i need new ones to run the spacers. what length upper and lower should i buy to run the 1.75" spacers. ad is there anything else i need to modify to run them.

 

also what transfercase ad transmission should i get?

 

control arms will be the lowers will be around 17 and 3/16", while the uppers will be around 15 and 5/8" long from center of bolt to center of bolt. you won't find a fixed set that are those exact measurements.

 

my suggestion, buy some adjustables that are for between 4.5" to 6.5" of lift. the other thing you can do would be to run some control arm drop brackets...which will improve handling with short arms at 6.25" of lift...6" of lift and higher kinda sucks for handling with short arms.

 

I'd buy the Rough Country adjustable control arms. idk how adjustable your track bar is, but you may need to replace that, and you will also need to either extend your brake hoses, drop them lower (if you can), or get new lines (jeep wrangler YJ lines from 87-95 work well).

 

transmission. well, idk if yours is a auto, 5 speed, or what motor you even have, so I can't tell you that...

 

its an auto, 4.0L 6cyl. i was also going to try and buy a cheep 4wd XJ, and swap everything need over for the 4wd. all i can think that wouldnt work is the drive shafts correct?

[JeepcoMJ]

correct.

 

for the easiest conversion, get one with the same motor/trans combo as yours (obviously 4wd instead). around here I could pick something like that up for $300 and remove the rust...er...body...off of the engine, trans, and front axle.

 

food for thought; get one with the same gear ratio as yours. otherwise you'll also have to swap rear axles, and weld new perches on the rear since XJ's are SOA while MJ's are spring-under.

[Redramman]

thats more than 2 things :popcorn:

[f1tbiker6]

i swapped my rear axel already to be SOA. so if i get a cherokee its not that huge of a deal if it has different gears. id actualy prefer to pick one up with better gears.

[f1tbiker6]

just making sure, a 4.0 4x4 jeep cherokee would be an appropriate rig for a swap? don't wanna by a junker and not be able to use it for anything.

[tjbliley]

The cherokee axle perches won't work for more than a short while. the width is different than an MJ. You can do it but it will fail in short order. you will still need to weld on new perches or move the ones that are on there. This is why its better to get on with the same gear ratio so its not an issue.

[f1tbiker6]

NP231-J T-case from 2000 auto cherokee and AX-15 from 95 Cherokee, will these work with my 4.0 L comanche when i convert to 4wd. sorry i really don't know anything about this stuff.

 

and if i were to buy an XJ for the swap, is there any years that won't work? also what about an aw4 transmisson?

[mjdoa]

Definitely more. :popcorn: :popcorn:

[f1tbiker6]

Definitely more. :popcorn: :popcorn:

 

not sure what you mean by this?

[mjdoa]

thats more than 2 things :popcorn:

 

Sorry,just playing.I'll shut the h up and try to

follow thread in silence.

[mjdoa]

Ok,mabe I can redeem myself.

I don't know that any year xj axle wouldn't work just fine.

I put front and rear from a 90 xj in my 88 mj.

Front was basically a direct swap.Use the xj brakes.

Mj brakes won't work on an xj axle.At least mine didn't.

Neither calipers nor rotors.

I replaced the spring perches in the rear,went soa,used

the mj shock mount plates,put them under the axle,got

square ended u-bolts to go over the springs,also used the xj rear

brakes,they were bigger.Used the mj drive shafts,front and resr.

Wasn't a huge ordeal,did it in my driveway.

Got about 5" lift going SOA,lifted the front with a Rough Country

4.5" kit.Worked out good.

[f1tbiker6]

i need to know about transmissions and transfer cases. what will and won't work with my 4.0L.

 

and since my comanche is 2wd, what shall i do about obtaining driveshafts, once i have all the 4wd stuff in it?

 

another question. ive found a 2.5L 4speed comanche kind of close. will the transmission and transfer case work out of this if i have a 4.0L? if it does work then the only problem i would have then is the rear drive shaft being to long since the one i found is a long bed, and i have a shortbed.

[f1tbiker6]

still need to know which transmission and transfer case i should run for my 4.0 mj. when looking at xj's, will a 4.0 4wd automatic have the correct transmission and transfercase for my swap?

[mvusse]

2.5 transmissions do not bolt up to a 4.0. Also older 4.0 transmissions have a different spline count on the output than newer ones. I believe the Pukegoat and early AW4 (as well as Chrysler 904?) had a 21 spline output, the later AW4 as well as AX15 had 23 spline. So a later transfer case may not fit on an older transmission. A 2wd transmission will also not bolt to a transfer case.

 

Please correct me where I'm wrong, as I'm still learning myself.

 

The easiest and probably cheapest way would be to get the drive train from a 4wd 4.0 Cherokee, or buy a cheap rotted or wrecked one with a good drive train for a parts vehicle. Use front axle, drive shaft, transmission, transfer case and all related parts off it. Keep your rear axle and have a shop shorten your 2wd drive shaft for you.

 

Since you have a 4.0, you should have the AW4 automatic. As long as you look at 4.0/auto Cherokees, they will also be AW4.

 

edit to add:

There were 2 transfer cases available. The part time only NP231, which some consider to be stronger (better off road) and is physically smaller (better off road) these are on vehicles labelled Command-Trac.

The other one is the NP242, which has a full time 4wd option. Better in slippery conditions, especially snow where there is dry pavement mixed in to help prevent/minimize skidding, since full time 4wd allows you to drive in 4wd even on dry pavement (think all-wheel-drive). Physically larger, and possibly weaker. These are on vehicles with the Selec-Trac badge on the rear.

[f1tbiker6]

2.5 transmissions do not bolt up to a 4.0. Also older 4.0 transmissions have a different spline count on the output than newer ones. I believe the Pukegoat and early AW4 (as well as Chrysler 904?) had a 21 spline output, the later AW4 as well as AX15 had 23 spline. So a later transfer case may not fit on an older transmission. A 2wd transmission will also not bolt to a transfer case.

 

Please correct me where I'm wrong, as I'm still learning myself.

 

The easiest and probably cheapest way would be to get the drive train from a 4wd 4.0 Cherokee, or buy a cheap rotted or wrecked one with a good drive train for a parts vehicle. Use front axle, drive shaft, transmission, transfer case and all related parts off it. Keep your rear axle and have a shop shorten your 2wd drive shaft for you.

 

Since you have a 4.0, you should have the AW4 automatic. As long as you look at 4.0/auto Cherokees, they will also be AW4.

 

thank you! my question finally answered :cheers:

[Eagle]

I put front and rear from a 90 xj in my 88 mj.

Front was basically a direct swap.Use the xj brakes.

Mj brakes won't work on an xj axle.At least mine didn't.

Neither calipers nor rotors.

XJ brakes will work in an MJ. They are the same ... if they are the same year. What you encountered has been discussed here several times -- Jeep changed the hubs, rotors, calipers and steering knuckles several times during the life span of the XJ (1984 through 2001). One of those changes took place during the MJ's life span, between the 1989 and 1990 model years, and parts between those two years cannot be mixed and matched. If you have a 1990 axle, you have to have 1990 everything ... including rotors and calipers.

 

Once again, here's the run-down. As before, this material is copyrighted by me, and by posting it here I do NOT grant any permission to reuse it, copy it, or reproduce it in any form other than to make ONE printed copy for your own, personal use.

-------------------------------------------

Steering knuckles: There are two designs of steering knuckle, and within each design the left and right sides are mirror image and carry different part numbers. The early knuckles were used from 1984 through 1989. The late knuckles were used from 1990 through 2001.

 

Hub/Bearing: Three different hub/bearing assemblies were used. The hub/bearing assembly is the same for both sides of the vehicle. The first type was used from 1984 through 1989, and must be mated to the early steering knuckle from the same range of years. The early hub/rotors used tapered roller bearings, which are available as individual replacement parts, and in theory can be rebuilt. In practice, removing the old bearings and installing new ones requires a large arbor press and bearing splitter, equipment not available to the average owner. In practice, even dealerships simply replace the entire assembly, because the labor cost to rebuild would exceed the cost of a replacement assembly.

 

The second type of hub/bearing assembly was used from 1990 through mid-1999. This hub/bearing assembly mates up with the newer style steering knuckle and is used with composite rotors. Certain years of XJ with composite rotors were subject to a safety recall if they were located in northern “rust belt” states, because of problems with the rotors (see below). When replacing hub/bearings in vehicles within this range of years, unless the vehicle recall history is known it is wise to call a dealer or DaimlerChrysler customer service to determine whether or not the vehicle has undergone the brake rotor recall. If so, confirm which hub/bearing assemblies should be used as service replacements..

 

The third type of hub/bearing assembly was used from mid-1999 through 2001. This hub/bearing is also used with the new style steering knuckles, and is mated with the newer style cast rotors.

 

Rotors: Three types of rotors were used. Rotors are the same for left and right sides. The first style of rotor was used from 1984 through 1989. The second style of rotor was used from 1990 through mid-1999. This second style rotor was a “composite” design—the braking surface disc was separate from the center “hat” section, which was stamped from comparatively thin sheet steel. After several years of service, it was found that in states and localities where salt is used on the roads in winter, corrosion of the “hat” section could result in the disc portion separating from the assembly, causing a loss of brakes. A factory recall was issued to correct this problem. The recall affects only vehicles within a range of years, and only in certain states. Anyone owning a Cherokee or Comanche in the range from 1990 through 1999 is advised to call a dealer or DaimlerChrysler customer service with the VIN number to determine if the vehicle is subject to this recall.

 

Mid-year in the 1999 model year the front brakes were changed to an all cast rotor design. Although the original, early style rotors were also all cast, the new rotors are different from the early ones and carry a different part number. The new cast rotors were used from mid-1999 through 2001. Because 1999 was a transition year, owners of 1999 Cherokees will need the VIN number to determine the correct parts to order when servicing the front brakes or hub/bearing assemblies.

 

Calipers: Two styles of caliper were used. The calipers are mirror image for the left and right sides and carry different part numbers within each group of years. The early style caliper was used from 1984 through 1989. The later style caliper was used from 1990 through 2001 and is used with both the composite rotors and the newer cast rotors.

 

As previously noted, a complete front axle assembly from any year Cherokee or Comanche can be installed in a Cherokee or Comanche of any other year. It is only when attempting to swap components among different years that the above parts differences become critical.

[f1tbiker6]

new question...

 

will a 97' aw4 trans work in my 89' manche. or do i need to find one around the same year?

[Motion Offroad]

The AW4 changed spline count around mid 1990. Early models were 21 spline, later were 23 spline.

 

The newer one will physically bolt up, however the older TC you have will not bolt to the newer AW4. If you use a new TC they do not the have vac. disco stuff so you'll than need to address the vac. disco on the D30 axle.

[f1tbiker6]

The AW4 changed spline count around mid 1990. Early models were 21 spline, later were 23 spline.

 

The newer one will physically bolt up, however the older TC you have will not bolt to the newer AW4. If you use a new TC they do not the have vac. disco stuff so you'll than need to address the vac. disco on the D30 axle.

 

what if i found a non disco d30 axle, used a newer aw4 trans and newr t-case with matching spline counts? i think those will work together.

 

this is why I'm aiming at finding a cheep 4wd cherokee so i can just swap everything over and not worry about all the matching up.

 

but main reason i asked about a newr trans is becuase i was told that the electrical connections may not match up.