f1tbiker6 Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... :middle:us I'm lifting my 89 comanche soon and seems like this is a winner. looks legit to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJ'87 Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 thats the lift i have on my truck. its a pretty good lift, all the parts are nice and strong. but my front springs sagged a little more than i would have liked. that might have been cause by using a spring compressor instead of disconnecting the axle. but other than that little glitch everything else worked out fine. i got my lift a while ago and he has added some extra parts to the package since then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 This comes up every once in a while and my opinion remains the same until they fix it. It's only half a lift kit. There is no way you could ever get me to lift my truck that high in the air and do nothing about the control arms. That, and you can do an SOA in the rear for about $25 (perches, U-bolts, and beer to trade for the welding), not the $120 or whatever it is they charge for the weld-free kit. It's a clever idea that solves a problem that's not really a problem at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 I'll save you a search: >My son and I have done it twice and like it. >A few others may have used it but tend to not admit it due to the lack of complete acceptance on the board. >When you go 5" you will need to address the control arms, which the kit does not- Thus the big price difference. We used WJ LCA's and drop brackets. We were lucky in that both trucks had tight front ends and never had a death wobble before CA mods. Most others have a different experience. >The bolt-on SOA is simple and it works for average trail stuff. But depending on your planned degree of wheeling you might need or want those extra couple inches you get with weld-on perches. We live up in the mountains, far from welders and such at the time. And being a D-35 which is prone to breaking, bolting in another would be simpler too. When a 44 or an 8.8 comes along it will be time to weld up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f1tbiker6 Posted July 4, 2008 Author Share Posted July 4, 2008 This comes up every once in a while and my opinion remains the same until they fix it. It's only half a lift kit. There is no way you could ever get me to lift my truck that high in the air and do nothing about the control arms. That, and you can do an SOA in the rear for about $25 (perches, U-bolts, and beer to trade for the welding), not the $120 or whatever it is they charge for the weld-free kit. It's a clever idea that solves a problem that's not really a problem at all. is there a set of control arms i could buy that will work with this lift? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawn Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 i have been looking at this lift since i bought my truck and their webpage is very convincing. they do mention that u should adress the control arm issue if u go even 1" higher, so i'd be very interested to know how it would work out with just their kit and nothing else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 Any control arms designed for a 4.5-5.5 inch lift will work. Adjustable are preferred so you can dial in your caster. Or you can use your stock arms and buy drop brackets. You do get what you pay for when it comes to control arms (and trackbars for that matter). The higher priced ones will tend to offer both better features as well as better build quality (stronger materials, better welds, etc). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 Another reason to get control arms is the need to center the axle in the wheel well. Notice how close the tire is to the back of the flare in this pic: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 I'd say a good 75% of what RRO has to say is BS. They don't even use 5" coils, they use a 3" coil with a coil spacer. I won't even go into the other stuff thats "half-a$$ed" with that kit. Go with something quality; http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... Path=12_57 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 I'd say a good 75% of what RRO has to say is BS. They don't even use 5" coils, they use a 3" coil with a coil spacer. I won't even go into the other stuff thats "half-a$$ed" with that kit. Go with something quality; http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... Path=12_57 $470 vs $1100... YES I agree there is a difference in what your getting for the $$$, but if someone is looking for the Size, but maybe isn't doing the Hard Wheeling that other people are, then I think the $470 is a good alternative... I think you get what you pay for, and I'm not for doing things more than once, But I really think the need serves at least some purposes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 $470 vs $1100... YES I agree there is a difference in what your getting for the $$$, but if someone is looking for the Size, but maybe isn't doing the Hard Wheeling that other people are, then I think the $470 is a good alternative... I think you get what you pay for, and I'm not for doing things more than once, But I really think the need serves at least some purposes... I don't think "hard wheeling" has anything to do with any of it. Quality parts on a street driven daily driver are just as important as a "hardcore" wheeling rig is. I won't even say anything about the quality of the parts of the RRO kit; I'm simply talking about how the kit is put together and how they advertise it. For example... Front coils, why use a 3" coil with a 2" spacer? Why not just use a 5" coil to begin with? No longer control arms? How can you call the kit "the best kit on the planet" and not include one of the most vital parts in lifting a Jeep? Rear SOA, you will most likely net at least 6" of lift in the rear going that route. Typically more depending on if it's a 4wd or 2wd and the condition of your springs. Hard to compare SOA with new leaf packs. What about bumpstops? What about swaybar disco's? So factor the price of $470 plus lets say $200 for a cheap set of control arms, another $100 for cheap swaybar disco's, and another $30 for bumpstops. Now your $470 kit just became a $800 kit. I'd gladly pay $300 more for a kit that has new rear leaf packs and uses coils without spacers upfront. I just think that the RRO kit like Pete said is just a "half kit" and many additional things are needed. Why aren't they included? Maybe RRO really thinks that they are not needed and just wants to offer something cheap to get you to a certain height. Maybe they are just looking to make a few bucks. I don't know why... but unfortunately (in my opinion and I think others will agree) they leave some very important parts out in doing a lift. End result is the buyer is left hanging with what they think is a good deal only to find down the road they need to spend more money even though they bought the "best MJ kit on the planet"; as RRO says. To each thier own, but I think you said it best when you said "I think you get what you pay for, and I'm not for doing things more than once". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f1tbiker6 Posted July 5, 2008 Author Share Posted July 5, 2008 would you guys suggest getting both upper and lower control arms? or is just one or the other okay? edit: they also have a control arm drop kit. anyone have any good or bad information on these? and it doesnt include a transfer case drop kit. it it needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLASHBACK Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 i would do the t-case drop with that much lift. I did a 3" lift on my girlfriends xj and i got some pretty good drive line vibrations. than i put on the t-case drop and it fixed the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 A MJ has a much longer wheelbase and driveshaft than the XJ does. TC drops really are not needed on the MJ's. Personally I wouldn't use one as it puts more stress on the mounts. I doubt you'll even notice a difference with one on the MJ's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f1tbiker6 Posted July 5, 2008 Author Share Posted July 5, 2008 last question! pro and cons on a control arm drop kit? should i just get longer arms? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chicofuentes0224 Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 last question! pro and cons on a control arm drop kit? should i just get longer arms? Adjustable control arms, upper and lower. That way you can change em around as you change the height of your lift. X2 on the buy quality parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f1tbiker6 Posted July 5, 2008 Author Share Posted July 5, 2008 last question! pro and cons on a control arm drop kit? should i just get longer arms? Adjustable control arms, upper and lower. That way you can change em around as you change the height of your lift. X2 on the buy quality parts. i know this soundsa silly, but i actually don't intend to go higher then 5 inches at least not until I'm out of college and thats a LONG ways away. i read that i really only need upper control arms for a 5 inch lift, for what reason would you say the lower ones are beneficial? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 If your going to use drop brackets with your factory arms than I have to ask why? Have you looked at the factory arms? Hit a pot-hole and you risk bending one of them. Invest in quality replacement arms before you buy drop brackets. With new arms they are stronger. If you go with adjustable's you'll be able to center your axle in your wheel well, as well as adjust your pinion angle a bit. Fixed length arms won't do that (they may center your axle if they are for the correct lift height). Also a nice thing about adjustable arms is that say you started out at 3" and than a year later wanted to go to 4.5". You can simply adjust them to fit your lift height and not have to buy parts a 2nd time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f1tbiker6 Posted July 5, 2008 Author Share Posted July 5, 2008 If your going to use drop brackets with your factory arms than I have to ask why? Have you looked at the factory arms? Hit a pot-hole and you risk bending one of them. Invest in quality replacement arms before you buy drop brackets. With new arms they are stronger. If you go with adjustable's you'll be able to center your axle in your wheel well, as well as adjust your pinion angle a bit. Fixed length arms won't do that (they may center your axle if they are for the correct lift height). Also a nice thing about adjustable arms is that say you started out at 3" and than a year later wanted to go to 4.5". You can simply adjust them to fit your lift height and not have to buy parts a 2nd time. thanks, i will most likely go with some adjustable upper arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 thanks, i will most likely go with some adjustable upper arms. I'd start with a set of adjustable lowers if your going to buy just 1 set. Lowers are far more important than the uppers are. If you want to buy uppers and lowers than by all means go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLASHBACK Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 A MJ has a much longer wheelbase and driveshaft than the XJ does. TC drops really are not needed on the MJ's. Personally I wouldn't use one as it puts more stress on the mounts. I doubt you'll even notice a difference with one on the MJ's. sweet i was gonna buy one when i lifted my mj now i won't thank bro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f1tbiker6 Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 okay okay one last question. will my buddy and I be able to put this lift on the jeep or will i need to take it to a shop? something about spring compressors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Spring compressors are sometimes loaned out by auto part stores like Autozone. Aside from that, I personally feel all the other tools you'll need you should own anyways so go get them. :D Don't forget to spray all the bolts down with PB Blaster or other rust penetrating spray (not WD-40) for several days before you plan to do work. And always always expect something to go wrong. For example, if the truck were a daily driver, it's best to start right after work on Friday to give the maximum amount of time. And on that note, if your truck is rusty like mine are, I highly recommend getting longer swaybar links rather than the sway bar drop brackets. Those bolts holding the sway bar up have a tendency to snap right off. On my 88 I snapped off 3 of 4 (and that's with spraying them down with PB for a week prior). Fortunately I ended up not needing a swaybar on that build. For my 90, I don't dare touch them. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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