Help... I know this isn't an MJ question but... (CJ5 t-case)

[The_Slow_Norris]

I was thinking about picking up a 1980 CJ5 on the cheap from a Marine that is shipping out, but I have a couple of questions I haven't been able to address anywhere and he just got his orders for this Monday...

 

He is selling a 1980 CJ5 4-banger, manual, paint shot like all "get out", but very limited rust. For a 4-banger it has got some guts and drives quite well for a Jeep with no power-steering or power-brakes. With all the parts he's throwing in (2 tops, new guages, etc...) $1600-1700 seems like a great deal.

 

However, when shift the t-case into or out of 2H, 4L, or 4H the Jeep needed to coast a little. Is this normal? He said it had been that way since he bought it and had never had any problems, but "that you had to coast it a little."

 

I know my TJs and MJ seem to go in a little easier when you are moving 2-5 mph.

 

What do you guys think? Being that I am selling my 04 Rubicon, and that I want to start working on my MJ, having an old CJ5 to get to work when the MJ is torn up might be cool. :D

 

TIA

[DirtyComanche]

I don't know how good of a DD that's be.

[The_Slow_Norris]

Well on the rust side... There is a rust hole at the base of the Driver-side factory roll bar. Other than that only very light surface stuff (probably come off with CLR. The whole tub is rhino-lined.

 

It's only the t-case that I'm a little leary of. I tried twice to shift, before he showed me to coast it a little.

 

By the way, what's a "DD?"

[FLASHBACK]

i think he means daily driver

[BLHTAZ]

It's not unusal to have to roll them just a little to get the gears to line up. I have rolled them or just leave it in gear and let the clutch out just a little to spin the shaft and it will shift.

 

That is a great price for that Jeep. It's hard to touch a driveable CJ for less than $3000 so even if it did have a t-case problem, it would be well worth that buy. :cheers:

[The_Slow_Norris]

Next stupid question...

 

You think I could flat tow this CJ with my wrangler? Dude does have seat belts or doors on it, that along with the fact there is no power steering and brakes makes this thing a "dance with the devil" to drive on the freeway from Provo Utah to Salt Lake. ;)

 

I've heard that it isn't wise to trailer more than 2K lbs, with a short wheelbase Jeep, but my MJ's rear bumper is bent down.? :cry:

[mvusse]

I drove a p/u truck with no ps and no pb for years. Despite not having power brakes, if you stomped on the pedal hard enough, it would still lock up all 4 wheels.

 

As for the steering, on the freeway it is no problem. You won't even notice it. Making sharper turns at lower speeds, like around town become a chore, though, and don't even ask me about parking lots.

 

A very sharp, very low speed turn (almost like a switchback) made me dislocate a finger, The next day I called a wrecking yard and told them I need everything to change my vehicle over to power steering. A week later I picked everything up for $125 and spent from 6pm 'till 2 am to install it.

 

I'm sure the CJ5 could be converted as well, but I'm sure parts for it are less plentiful and therefore a bit more expensive, but considering what you're paying for it, the total cost would still be worth it.

 

Good luck!

 

Oh, and I wouldn't tow anything as heavy as a vehicle (either flat, dolly or trailer) with a bumper hitch. Borrow a vehicle with a class III receiver, and make sure the tow bar is securely fastened to the frame of the towed vehicle, or something else securely fastened to the frame. Do not trust the front bumper to attach it to.

[BLHTAZ]

I don't know how far that trip is, but if you have the proper towing set up on the Wrangler, it should not be a big deal to flat tow it. A CJ5 will not weigh a whole lot more than 2000lbs and if you drive carefully...it should be uneventful ;) .

[The_Slow_Norris]

Thanks Taz.

 

It ain't really my driving that scares me, it's all the other yay-hoos on cell phones, screaming kids in the car, or folk that are just plain a-holes that put me uptight.

 

I think I'll try the flat tow method if I can finagle this.

[Dave88]

Thanks Taz.

 

It ain't really my driving that scares me, it's all the other yay-hoos on cell phones, screaming kids in the car, or folk that are just plain a-holes that put me uptight.

 

I think I'll try the flat tow method if I can finagle this.

if you don't bother them they shall not bother you. :teehee:

[The_Slow_Norris]

Anybody know what t-case a 1980n CJ5 had? If it makes any difference it has the GM 151.

[The_Slow_Norris]

Solved...

 

DANA 300 t-case & SR4 Tranny.

 

I'm not sure if the SR4s were only mated up with the GM 151 4-bangers, BUT

 

If reverse is up and to the left then it's an SR4, if it's down and to the right it's a t-176/177.

 

For posterity and the forum archives. (Just in case any one ends up looking for a 4-banger CJ5 or has one given to them. )

[Eagle]

I dunno about you guys.

 

Back in the pony car days, any time I bought a used Javelin or AMX about the first thing I did was to remove the power steering and put in a quick ratio manual box. The second thing I usually did was to upgrade the front brakes to 1973 Matador discs and chuck the power booster.

 

My first wife was 5'-4" tall and weighed 125 pounds. SHE drove a 390 AMX with QRM steering. You healthy lads should be able to handle it.

[LJRockstar]

If you are going to flat tow it, make sure you take out the rear drive shaft. The dana 300's will burn up the output bearing when flat towed in the neutral position. w/o the gears slinging oil the output bearing will go dry and eat itself pretty quickly. Otherwise good find! Love the old 5's I grew up riding shotgun while plowing in my dads 73 CJ-5.