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So about a week ago my trucks pcv line popped out and got burnt on the manifold. Sigh, but I jerryrigged it together and its held up exceptionally well, until now (I think) So I turned out onto the road and the truck stays in first, cuts my throttle and starts backfiring like crazy, like I had 2 step or something. I quickly pulled off, and turned off the truck. After turning it back on it had no problems, until I got to a stop light, where it just died. I turned it back on and tried to limp it back to school (I was on lunch) and it wanted to die every single stop, it got to the point where I put it in neutral and looked like a dummy revving my truck at a light to keep it on. Well after I made it back, I turned it off, and quickly inspected it. My PCV is still good, everything looks A-OK. I turned it on and it didnt try to die even in gear. I had to go to class which is were I'm at now and I'm at a loss for ideas.

Hey guys, as some of you may know my oil pressure sending unit fitting broke flush with the block and this is a write up on how to get it out. Yes there are several ways to get this fitting out, such as pulling the engine, removing the engine mount etc. This is what worked for me and can be used as a reference for other 2.5l renix owners. This problem started when I swapped my cluster from the dummy lights to a full cluster. The oil pressure switch ( which turns on the dummy light if oil pressure goes down) does not work with the full cluster. I got the oil pressure sending unit and it is a direct swap, so i thought it was going to be a 20 min job at the most. As I am trying to loosen the original switch the fitting it screws into breaks flush with the block. After singing like a sailor, i started scratching my head. Attempt #1 I thought about using a 5/16 extractor bit. The bit fits into the hole but without removing the engine mount there is not enough room to be able to get a drill to spin it out. Attempt #2 I ran to Home depot with the advice of some of my fellow members and got a set of pipe nipple extrators These would have been perfect if it fit into the hole of the fitting. It would work beautifully but since a hammer doesn't fit to tap in the extractor. Attempt #3 So the next attempt was getting a small metal cutting blade and modifying it w/ an angle grinder to fit into the fitting Before cutting away at the fitting, I removed the alternator and the ac compressor Covering the blade in grease carefully cut 2 grooves into the fitting on opposite sides, either top and bottom or left and right. Once the grooves are cut get yourself a flat head screwdriver (one that is just as wide as the fitting) slide it into the grooves and carefully back it out

Like the title says, I'm taking a different approach this issue. I'm in the middle of replacing my spare tire hoist with a different one. I'll take pictures as I move along. I just wanted to start a thread that didn't involve cable u-bolt clamps. I really didn't like the idea of a repair using them. So, I thought I'd find a very common and cheap replacement hoist that would take minimal fabrication to install. I got a free one from a 93 Chevy Silverado K1500 4x4. So far the planning and test fitting has gone great. The hoist shaft just needs a new hole drilled closer to the end and the K1500 pin will fit and won't require any extra work. I've already cut the MJ metal tire bracket and installed it on the k1500 hoist cable. I also opened the hole up to just larfer than the chevy bracket since it has a pressure spring and the center needs to be able to move as the spring compresses. I cut one side of the bracket, installed on the cable and welded it back together. I left the original chevy tire bracket and just cut the ends off and welded it under the MJ bracket to strengthen it since I cut and welded it. The k1500 hoist is larger so I'm hoping it has more cable since I'm planning to lift the MJ. It will drop about 3" lower and the tire will have to be mounted with the bracket on the face of the wheel. I'm using one of my original steel wheels as my spare so I'm not worried about it scratching it. I'm going to make new mounted brackets that will be similar to the original MJ just using thicker steel.

So my multiswitch is all sorts of messed up and I need to replace it. I was wondering if anyone has a write up or any advice on how to do it? Ive only got the steering wheel off so far.