McClare

my DRL only do the headlights, not the rear lights, not the dash lights

Mine has DRL but they don't come on with the ignition. They come on once the truck gets up to about 5km/h. I'm going to change the thermostat in it right now and I'll have a quick gander at the lights to see how they're wired. If it looks easy to take out I can grab one out of the junk yard next time I stop in

I would get a rear wheel alignment before taking this on the road ;)

My rear differential has a leak where the driveshaft goes into it. I looked through my Haynes manual and it tells me how to take the d-shaft out and it looks pretty easy. I'm guessing that there's some sort of seal there that needs to be replaced. My question is that when I take the d-shaft out, is all the gear oil going to spill out all over the place? Are there any other precautions I should take? Looks like a pretty simple job to me.

So where do you get the drop pitman arm? Is it the stock pitman arm for the ZJ and it drops the MJ by 1" or is it actually a 1" drop for a ZJ?

actually come to think of it, the track bar did come with a drop bracket. I think it was an inch or two. Maybe that's the issue

If I took a few pics of the steering you think that might help diagnose the problem?

92 MJ, 3" skyjacker shocks, coils, new leaf pack, new LCA's. When I first lifted it I went into a death wobble and then I got an alignment and that seems to have fixed it until the other day. It didn't go into the wobble, but once in a while when I hit a hard bump at high speed I can feel the wheels shake back and forth a sec. A little harder hit and I'd be done. My question is what should I do about it? Would a dropped pitman arm help? I've seen people put 1" drop pitman arms from a ZJ on and I'm curious if that solved the problem. This is a daily driver. Cheers thanks

I'd buy it

How do you hide from an american? Go to canada. They don't know where it is

I've got an extra pair of 3" lift shocks for an MJ sitting here. I bought them and they were too short and the store wouldn't take them back becasue I already had them on my truck. They're skyjackers. If you're interested I can find the extended and collapsed lengths on them. I'll sell the pair for $50

I've been lurking for a while and been getting a lot of advice from you guys but I didn't want to show my MJ until I had the rollbar done. Mine is a daily driver and I don't have the money to use it as a toy so it's not jacked like the rest of yours but I like the look of it anyway. 1992 MJ 4.0L, 5 spd, 4x4, SWB 3" Skyjacker

Anyone know what adapter you need to recharge the a/c on a comanche? My friend has one of those fill bottles but doesn't have the right adapter for it. It doesn't push the pin in when he threads it on

92 Comanche, 4.0L, 4x4, Short box, 3" skyjacker I was driving my jeep the other day and the clutch didnt seem to be working properly. If I push it slowly, it'll go right to the floor and the reservoir will fill up with (i'm guessing) air. When I let out the clutch, the reservoir goes down to where it was. When this happens I can't put it in or take it out of gear. When I stomp the clutch to the floor it usually works properly and the reservoir doesn't change how much fluid is in it. If I hold the clutch to the floor, say at a red light, it slowly leaks and the truck will try to roll forward. The clutch does not have to be engaged to start the truck. There is no fluid leak anywhere. My guess is the clutch master cylinder. I'm really hoping it's not the slave because mine is internal :( Anyone have any other guess other than the master? I'm not a super mechanic or anything but I know I could change that on my own. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers mates

you mean a wiring diagram to run a relay for lights? I can draw you one if you want

Where do you get the magnets?

taking the u-bolts off I still had tension on the leaves. I should have let the axle down first to take the tension off but I didn't. When the nut broke loose the leaves sprung down on my hand. It hurt like a bad bj, except on my hand

you're not in calgary by any chance are you? I could wire that up for you in about 10 minutes. edit: nm, texas

bring it TO the shop I meant hehe. He should be able to look at it and see what you need for the female end

on second thought, go to an electrical wholesaler and tell him you want to be able to plug your welder into a dryer plug (bring the welder in). He should sell you everything you need. If he misses anything, show him the list I gave you

actually most ranges are rated at 40 amps. The easiest way to fix this is with a cheater cord like steve suggested. Go to home depot and get a male cord end (14-50R). It'll plug into a range receptacle perfectly fine. It would probably be a good idea to get an electrician to wire a spare one into your basement and make a cheater cord thats about 50' long so you can use it in your driveway. A dryer receptacle is rated for 30 amps. Just make sure you run #8 wire. The dryer configuration is 14-30R here's a list of everything you'd need to make a cheater cord: X amount of feet of 8/3 SOW (this is the cord itself) 2 L-19's or strain reliefs (connectors) 1 4-11/16 deep box (box) 1 mud ring (extension) 1 female receptacle (same configuration as your welder, probably 5-50R or 6-50R 1 male cord end (14-50R, range) *OR* (14-30R, dryer) That'll make a cord to plug into a dryer or range receptacle. I made one for my brother a while ago. I've had some drinks tonight though so I'm not sure if this will come out very clear to you but I'll try to fix it in the morning

I put a bunch of gravel in the back of my truck to weigh it down. It's a whole brand new leaf spring set so they might take a bit to settle but when it's weighed down about an inch it no longer tops out the shocks. Hopefully after some time I can take the rocks out and it'll still ride nice. Just thought I'd let everyone know in case it happens to someone else.

I had a 3" skyjacker lift on the front (92 MJ) and put new shocks in the back and then just put a new set of leaf springs on. It seems like the rear shocks are topped out and as I'm driving it feels like I'm driving down a bumpy road. Is this because the shocks are too short or something else? It doesn't matter if it's in gear or neutral. The shocks *should* have been long enough considering they came with the kit but thats my first guess anyway. Anyone have any other ideas?

Take the bottom of the shock off and then pull the bottom of shock out so it sits on an angle and then you can get a ratchet with extension on it.

what lines won't match up?