MF Steve!

IIRC, Rubicon Express sells them.

Thanks again guys! I'm really busy with work again, so there she sits. I need to plate the uni-rails from the back of the cab to the front fender before I do anything else. I'd probably have them done with some angle and plate by now, but I'm too damn picky. I was thinking about the TNT stiffeners, but they don't exactly fit the MJ. Does anyone know of a reasonably prices 1-piece (3 sided) stiffener on the market for an MJ?

Great looking MJ! I should be sitting around the same height when I finish up. What size springs did you end up using? Steve

Those "shock extenders" are somewhat disturbing to me. If you decide to lift, do everyone a favor, and don't put something like that on the road.

Thanks guys! Yes, I will be fixing the floor. I figure, I'll take care of it when I do the 2x4 rocker replacement on the cab. I'll have the pieces of 2x2 tying the rail to the uni-rail and they will be partially within the floor pan, so I'll have to piece it together once its fabbed up.

I know: http://www.pgh-offroad.com/forum/showth ... 79&page=16 Ya the interior swap is pretty easy, for as much time as some MJ guys spend going through and pulling out the interior they could spend a little more money and grab the dash and interior, for what would be, IMO, a MUCH nicer interior with better AC heat etc. I agree. I went all out. Even have the doors, keyless entry, etc. working. Whatcha doin on PghOffRoad.com?

This looks pretty cool! I just recently did a full '99 XJ drivetrain/interior swap into my '86 MJ. It was nowhere near as bad as I thought it would be! Good luck on this, I can't wait to see the CRD in the engine bay!

Been a while since updates. Got lots of parts together, and build the front suspension in the past 3 days. My home-brew kit is very similar to that of the Clayton's kit. The skid, which I will make this weekend will mount very similar to that of the TNT kit. Figured out all of my measurements, cut everything to length, tacked together, and did a full mock up. Then, disassembled, and burned everything together. Parts include: 2" x 2" x 1/4" wall HREW LCA's 1 1/4" x 12TPI tube adapters for frame end joints (custom machined) 2 5/8" x 2 5/8" DOM sleeved poly bushings at axle end (Polyperformance) 2 5/8" Forged Currie Johnny Joints with 1 1/4" x 12TPI stud LCA's are 38" eye to eye (moves front axle forward approx 1" from stock 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 3/16" wall HREW UCA's 3/4" x 16TPI tube adapters for LCA end joints (Ballistic Fabrication) 1/4" plate open ends at axle 2" Forged Currie Johnny Joints with 3/4" x 16TPI stud UCA's are 15" eye to eye All brackets and tabs were plasma cut by me. Pix say it all: [/img]

Even the '86 had the punch outs for both. Regardless of automatic or manual, the hole in the tranny tunnel is the same shape and size, as is that of the t-case shifter.

As stated above...it's under the center console in a +97 XJ, which is where my whole interior including the dash, console, steering column/wheel, and seating came from, along with the engine, transmission, and transfercase.

None. There is a single deceleration module that controls both airbags. It is the box I was talking about in my post above. It's nothing more than a 5" x 5" x 1" aluminum box with guts that sense extreme deceleration, thus deploying the airbags in an accident. It's the only thing that needs to be un-installed to keep them from being inactive.

Thanks. Hopefully some more exciting progress will happen soon. As far as the airbags, I haven't decided yet. The airbag control module is located under the center console. It can easily be unplugged to keep the bags inactive. I have also thought about removing them, along with the module and placing them up for sale. Airbags bring good money, but they also bring lots of on-road safety.

JD arms, and everything else is pretty much build from parts. At this point in time, I'm just borrowing it, but there is another in production that will some day belong to my friend and I. I've got a lot of toob to do on the MJ. Cage through the 97+ dash, and cab corners forming an "x" in the bed for a tire mount, etc. I've got my front bumper all planned out, just need to get a 97+ header and grille on so I can get a final measurement. 2x4 rocker replacement with some toob sliders also.

Whats your 20? I'm in Pittsburgh, and my equipment isn't exactly mobile at 450+ lbs.

I believe it is! There is a Trail 90 in some of my pix!

I've been slackin on the project a little. Spent some time playing with the full-hydro tube bender making a new front end for my buddy's previously rolled '87 YJ, which is now a YJ/CJ thing we call The Punisher. Anyways, I made a little progress. Decided to just swap the '99 front crossmember on so I had something to get the radiator sitting on, since '86 never came w/ a 4.0L style cooling system. Got everything bolted in, including the radiator and supports, all hoses, airbox, etc. The engine bay is now 100% complete, and it does run after the swap. I'm starting the custom long arms and crossmember this week, along with getting the rear sprung over 8.25 finished up. I need it to be mobile by April 18th, as the shop will be moving to a new, bigger home. A 2000 sq. ft. garage with 16' ceilings, and a 3 bedroom house above.[/img]

The holes are not there. I guess this is another issue with '86 only Comanches. Here is a picture of where the 4.0L and AW-4 sit in comparison to the bolt locations on the transmission mount and the uni-rail: I'm not overly concerned, as I'll need a custom skid/crossmember for my custom fab. front long arms anyways. Just consider this a heads up. An '86 MJ 2wd has only two holes per side.

Rubicon 44 isn't worth the $$$ in my eyes, you've still got all the troubles of HP30 axle shafts, unit bearings, etc. If you like the idea of the R44, which isn't a bad one, I'd keep the HP30, and find a used Warn hub conversion kit. You can then run a full time locker, you have 3wd when you break one side, and you get less wear/better mileage when you're on the street.

The solution: I think it's well worth it for $150. You're getting rid of the cheapo stamped steel passenger side tower, and you're getting two rebuildable joints that you'll never need to press out again. http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestor ... px?id=1277

Believe me when I say I've played w/ my share of axles. I've also watched my share of weeeee-todds run a variety of ratios at one time. The result is always KABOOM. Anyways, If this is that big of a clusterfawk of confusion, I'm just going to make myself a Clayton Off-Road style 3-piece crossmember, since I'm making longarms anyways. I really just wanted something to stick on there so I can start my new '99 driveline up and play w/ the Snap On scanner to rid myself of codes!

What do axles have to do with this? I'm running an HP30 with 4:56 gears and a Ford 8.8 rear w/ 4:56 gears when the time comes. Thanks for the offtopic. Oh, and that motor and tranny went through the shredder before my eyes. I tried to get rid of it for months, but could definately understand why nobody would want it.

This MJ did not have a BA-10, it had a 2wd AX-5. This is becoming stoopid overcomplicated, and I'm about ready to crank up the plasma cutter and just make a new one out of 2 x 4 x 1/4 box.

Thanks guys! Unfortunately, I have to put the project on hold for a while. Work is finally picking up, and business is good. But, I guess that means more money to blow on the project!

??? The holes also vary depending on what engine, transmission, and transfer case combination you have. The difference in location is 4 inches, not 2-1/2 inches, so that's not the complete answer. Each tranny and transfer case combination used a different tranny mount, even though the cross members were all the same. If you're not using the correct mount for the tranny and transfer case that you now have in the truck ... that's the problem. I am using the crossmember, and mount from the AW-4 that will be residing in the MJ. It does not line up. I was under the assumption that there were 4 bolts per side, not two for 2wd and two for 4wd. Can anyone clarify this???