702_MJ

ok so finally got my e brake. any one give me an idea how hard it is to put in? It doesnt have a description in my manual. So i guess I'm gonna wing it. at least it will be legal on the streets in hawaii.

Ok i can't decide. well i figure ive already made plans and my dad threw the 4.0 in back in the 90's so why change it. i have to much time invested in my 4.0 and theres too much sentimental value to the truck to chop it up and make it a diesel. So I'm gonna go find me another comanche so i can tear it apart and have both. hope to see your mj done soon sir sam. :cheers:

Well found the thread, looks like you have been busy. Nice build. Now that i got an example to copy :popcorn: So how exactly are you gonna use the factory harness with the CRD?

So since your doing the swap hows it going? Any info to help. I was thinking the CRD and either an NV3550 or 4500(over automatics already) and just beef up my NP231 and get some dana 44's. How would you estimate the cost of the swap? Cost and time finding a 2.8 CRD is my main concern.

ya a stroker is the cheapest. but i think those mopar underground guys swapped the CRD into a tj and were thinking of making it a kit at the dealers , i gotta do more research. Know anyone who has done it before?

Hmm ive contemplated that. And they got some hop ups for those now too huh. Hmm maybe ill look into one of those. Thanks pete. LOL they got a CRD swap in an xj in my new diesel power magazine i just got, i completely over looked it. Keep the input coming guys.

I got a 4.0 block at my house that i can start building a 4.7L hesco stroker or i was thinking about how cool it would be to have a diesel. Ive been reading about people putting the cummins 4bt in cjs and wranglers. Theres even that yellow mj with the 4bt swap, that thing is a monster. Just wondering if anyone has any experience or advice with the swap or the pros and cons between the engines. I know a stroker would be easier cuz i would just have to bolt it in. But i was planning on swapping to an NV3550 trans with a 4bt i would need to source a 4500 and that would require modifying the floor and i plan on getting some Dana 44's under my rig so i was just thinking i might as well throw a diesel in if i can source the engine. Any thoughts?

The ranger bed is ok but if you glance at it, it still has ranger written all over it. Image Not Found I'm still sayn the boxy m715 bed.

There was a jeep comanche in a 4wheel magazine that they took on a wheeling trip with one of the rigs they built in 08, it was a gmc truck if anyone can remember the issue or what it was called cuz i don't. But anyway it had the kaiser m715 bed and it looked pretty sweet. Or Image Not Found Find one of these bad boys. The elusive little red truck dakota.

yep goblazers has an awesome stance! Well ill just throw the 7.5's and do an soa with either a shackle or the ubolt eliminator and see where i stand when the time comes.

i like the way you put it, LOL.

don't mean to hijack but i got a question. So you get 5-6" of lift with an SOA lift? Ive heard about 4.5. And knowing that, thats how ive been planning my lift. But if its 5-6" then i gotta re think it. I want 7.5 front and back. Since your saying 5-6", if i got 7.5" springs up front and just use the original springs out back and throw like a 1.5" shackle on it would that work?

Thats a pretty sweet mod. So how could you do that? You could put like those smoked out euro tail lights in they sell for the cherokees!

Hmm i like the idea, I'm gonna have to try it one of these days. But its kinda confusing. Where did he hook up the hot ignition wire, i mean what did he splice into?

So the rails that the brackets originally are rose welded to are different distances apart?

i always knew those gauges couldnt be trusted. Ill do that, thanks

so is that like a common problem?

why not just separate the brackets from the 90 and weld them to the 97. Cuz the only lthread i know of is bench to buckets in the DYI

:hijack: don't mean to hijack but i kinda got the same problem that has been buggn the crap outta me. My guage wiil read 14v, and only drop a little when i turn the headlights on or wipers and such. But when i turn defrost on, or the fan for that matter the gauge drops dramatically! Second alternator new battery, and still does it. could it be the same?

i just needed the name, but a whole re education was great to. :rotfl2:

Thats what i did. the first time, ill look into having it balanced. But other than that I'm just gonna take it apart and throw it back together. Well TNT what is it called then? Cuz all over the internet its called Center something...... I would like to order the part and not have the guys at the parts store scratching his head like he thinks I'm crazy.

I took it apart once i thought maybe just buy the part and put it back together with new u joints and done. Is there more to it than that :dunno:

I was just thinking maybe them cuz you mentioned the clearance, and that I'm gonna need flush mount grease fittings. The greasable u joints have the zerk in the middle of an angle right so i was thinking about the gold seal cuz the zerk is on the top of a cap. So wouldnt be easier to get to and grease them? Thats what I'm thinking, if i end up getting them ill let you know. Well just started reading on their site and the 1310's only come with the cap zerk. LOL and i take it the 135X is their 1350 and its got the regular zerk on the body, so I'm just gonna go get some greasable ones from napa or something and go your route.

Thanks, i appreciate it. Might look into a shop anyway, just to get a quote. I would rather do it myself, kinda so when something screws up i can kick my self in the butt and not go trying to deal with companies and all their policies. When i had a 2.5" headpipe put on the truck is still low enough and so close to the shaft, it nicked off the zerk fitting, and shaved a little off the weight. So just gonna see if theres a good one in hawaii. If not then I'm gonna probly go the route you took $500 MJ. But what about those "gold seal u joints" by tom woods drive shaft. The grease fitting is on the top of one of the caps for the joint. http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

Ok this is what I'm talking about. Image Not Found The needle bearings fell out of the ball. Image Not Found Image Not Found Not my pictures, havent taken it apart yet just doin research. But its the constant velocity joint, any body knows where to get any of these parts new?