1987Comanche

The alternative linkage doesn't look too bad though there definitely is some assembly required. I'll have to make the determination on what to pursue when I have more parts gathered. I think I'll need to find another 4WD AX-15 XJ in order to scavenge the front driveshaft and axle. I was hoping everything (linkage, bracket, etc) was identical between AX-15 and AW-4 but I guess I'm not that lucky...

How old is the fuel pump? It may be on the way out

I dug through the archives and found a pic of Maura's shift linkage (231J with AX-15). Does anyone have a pic of the AW4 231J linkage for comparison? For reference Maura had a 53009209 231J transfer case:

Sudden loss of power and stalling sounds like it could be a vacuum leak. What kind of shape are the vacuum lines in?

So I have to look for another AX-15 MJ/XJ to scrounge at least the linkage & front driveshaft from. Bummer. Any chance the BA 10/5 Transfer case linkage would work? I think I've found someone who knows they're going to do the 4X4 swap... me :). If, for some reason I decide against it I'll keep you in mind. OneOverZero has first right of refusal, however. I took a closer look at the output shaft area of the AX-15 tonight and I think that even the long input shaft 231 would fit with no issues: Wide open: The cavity is almost 3" deep from the seal lip to what I believe is the reverse gear cluster:

I found a pretty good writeup on the input shafts today: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/transfer-case-swap-info-np249-np231-np242-685644/ Based on this and input from everyone who replied it looks like any 231 from 91-95 is easiest swap. 96 is listed as a 1 yr only interchange but I'm not sure why...have to research that. 97+ looks like it will work as well, provided I grab the yoke off the rear driveshaft as well. Am I safe in assuming the floor lever and linkage are identical between M/T and A/T equipped XJ/MJ? I'll have to grab that with the Transfer case

I'd be ok with swapping in the short input gear if needed and I could find one. I recently rebuilt the NVG246 in my Suburban and it's more complicated than the 231 appears to be. Has anyone tried using a medium length input shaft 231 with the AX-15? In every JY I've been to the AW4 outnumbers the AX-15 by 10 to 1. I did some additional research and found some MOPAR Transfer case #s. None of these are separated by M/T vs A/T. According to the interchange these would swap freely. 91-93: 52097522 94-95: 52098487 97+: 52099212 Has anyone hooked one of these 3 P/Ns to an AX-15? I'm going to see if I can find something that references input shaft length to these numbers. Alexia: I see your point. What should be a simple interchange is insanely complex.

So I scored a 168K mile external slave 4X4 AX-15 at the jy yesterday and am debating whether I should convert Georgia to 4WD. P/N on the trans is 52108047 and it came from a '94. The 231J transfer case was shot (broken chain, hole in case) so I left it. Front D/S was also gone. I've done some additional research and I'm trying to determine the correct donor(s) for a 231J. From what I can see it looks like a 6 cyl '94-95 XJ is the only 231 donor, regardless of whether it's an AX-15 or AW4. 412-309, CHEROKEE 94-95 NP231, 6 cyl, Ident: 52098487, New Process 231. The trans itself shows the following interchange: 400-2701, CHEROKEE 94-99 M.T.; 4x4, 6 cyl, 5 speed M.T., AX15 Front Driveshaft looks pretty wide open: 430-2721, basically 87-01 XJ/MJ with a 6 cyl and M/T Rear Driveshaft is 87-92 SWB M/T 6 cyl MJ: 431-2737, COMANCHE 87 113" WB, 4x4, MT, 6 cyl, COMANCHE 88-92 113" WB, 4x4, MT, 6 cyl, w/o Spicer 44 axle Front axle is 3.07 M/T non-ABS. 434-1562c, CHEROKEE 90-93 w/o vacuum disconnect; w/o ABS; 3.07 ratio CHEROKEE 94-99 w/o ABS; LHD, 3.07 ratio So here are my questions: -If the trans interchanges from 94-99, why wouldn't the 231 interchange from 94-99? -I'm assuming the difference between the early AX-15 and the later AX-15 is the input shaft dia and external/internal. Would the 90-93 231 fit? -If the transfer case is a direct interchange between manual and auto, why isn't the front driveshaft interchangeable as well? Really I'm down to 2 possibiliites: -Swap the bellhousing and front bearing retainer from my internal 2WD AX-15 and sell the 4X4 AX-15. -Collect parts for a 4X4 conversion.

Had a great score at the u-pull-it. I've been keeping an eye out for an external slave AX-15 for Georgia but these have proven quite elusive. Much to my surprise I came across one today!! The donor was an oddly optioned '94 Country with 168K on the clock. I've never seen a country with a manual trans. The T-case was junk (broken chain which poked a hole in the case) so it stayed in the yard. Of course Georgia is 2WD so my original plan was to strip the bellhousing & bearing retainer and leave the rest of the trans. I couldn't do it though as it was just too nice to abandon. Now I'm faced with the question of whether or not I should convert her to 4WD. I'll have to sleep on this one...

I believe the MAP 3 pin connector is identical to the TPS 3 pin connector. In this case the TPS patch harness you've been using can be plugged into the MAP circuit, giving you the perfect spot to hook up a multimeter.

She's alive and driving around under her own power! :banana: . :MJ 1: . :D

Don't walk away from an ATK reman engine...run!!!! The first one I put in my '90 lasted 282 miles before the cam bearings grenaded. If you want to read the horror story check out my build thread for Maura.

Glad you got it wired up and that it works! :clapping:

We picked up about 10" of snow Wed evening and I loaded Georgia down with sandbags, a shovel, a blanket, some snacks, and a tow chain. For a 2WD truck she did pretty well on untreated roads. Here's what she looked like after we made it to work:

Glad the parts from the '90 worked out :thumbsup:. Wouldn't sit too long on the correct clutch hose though. With no ability to flex (I assume your current 1/4" line is hard line all the way from clutch master to bell housing) everything will have a lot of stress on it and something will give out. Last thing you want to do is drop the trans b/c the line going into the slave split or sheared off...

How much pressure does it take to open the check ball on your Speed Bleeders? If the entire line is full of air perhaps the you can't develop enough pressure to unseat the ball. If you put the original (dumb) bleeder screw back on can you pull fluid out with the vacuum bleeder?

Just finished rebuilding the NVG 246 in my Suburban and thought I'd post somoe of the highlights: Old transfer case with massive leakage: Junkyard donor: Stripped it down: Damaged rear case half. 246 pump rub: Setting up the clutch packs: Assembled clutch drum: Internals assembled with a lot of new parts and case saver: Done:

Georgia finally has matching seats! Found a '93 4dr XJ sport and spliced the pass seat bottom with the driver's seat back. I pulled the 2 dr seat I had in Georgia and swapped the covers tonight. The flip forward seat covers and standard seat covers are surprisingly different...it was a PITA making the 4 dr covers fit. Old seat cover with tear, worn spot, cigarette burn: 4 dr XJ sport seat cover installed (yes it needs more scrubbing) Matching seats!!

Your options are pretty limited. Best option would be to grab a good used one at the jy or from a member. Beyond that you might be able to rig something up that would work. The Renix clutch masters had a threaded connection. You might be able to use a 4.0 Renix master and Renix hard/soft line (Advance carries these lines). The internal clutch slave is the same and I think the plastic line is ultimately hooked up to a threaded hard line on the outside of the bellhousing

Put some weight in the bed, directly over the rear axle. It will help settle the back of the truck and give the rear wheels some grip. I usually load around 250lbs.

The HO and Renix brackets will swap if you use the correct alternator bracket and A/C compressor or delete pulley. OneOverZero and I went through this with his Renix to HO swap and we kept the GM/Renix alternator. His A/C didn't work and the Renix A/C delete pulley isn't available (horizontal bolts). The HO delete pulley is available (vertical bolt holes) so we took the Renix bracket off and put the HO one on

My Chinese E-bay radiator decided it didn't like the cold weather and started leaking (antifreeze was good to -35, according to my coolant tester). Swapped in another Chinese one this weekend: Radiator #2 must have been a copy of a copy as measured by a tape measure. I had to shim the air box to get clearance on the filler neck (still only have 0.040" or so). Also I had to take some 3/8" trans cooler line and shim the posts for the lower rad support. Radiator #1 had neither of these problems.

It took a while to coax her through the break-in for sure. Very soon she'll be rolling: . :MJ 1: . As a comment to #1. The header was glowing bright cherry red before pulling the Renix/Deka injectors. It was red after the injector swap but was more of a dull/moderate red color.

Ma Mopar recommends 30 weight motor oil in the AX-15. The local dealer service or parts counter should be able to confirm for you.

I use synthetic 10W-30 with 1/2 bottle of Lucas.