MJ20

Pulled fence.

I want this. Do you leave it unattended with the keys in it? he he, I don't leave the keys in it but it's got a gm steering column so....

Thanks buddy.

My favorite toy other than the mj and xj is still a jeep. I'm addicted to bamboo. And computers.

Yea, a little loud for me, and I don't have a head liner so.. I think that muffler dented my roof.

I installed the 40 series on my mj, test drove and removed it after twenty miles. Couldn’t stand it, made my 4.0 sound like it was in labor just to get to 3rd gear. The only reason I bought it was because the 50 series sounds so good on my J20. Huge difference. After that mistake I bought the oem muffler from checker for $60 and a new tail pipe at autozone for $65. That’s less than the rustys deal. Too bad you don’t live around here because eventually I am going to sell the 40, hopefully to a ricer, lol. At az emissions they can’t cross over the dyno so your tail pipe has to be accessible without doing so. That pretty much means Behind the rear wheel or further back.

I did the soa on my 86 J20. I swapped in a dana 60 front at the same time and did a shackle flip on my rear dana 60. It’s a pretty simple mod. If it had spring perches welded on properly you should have no problems. What I would look at is the steering mods. Did they put a high steer arm on the pass side for the drag link? Does it have a drop pitman arm? If it doesn’t use those kinds of mods then you prolly are going to have some bad bump steer. The flex brake lines should be dropped or extended so they don’t break, too. What about the rear? You got around 6” of lift from the front soa so what was done to the rear. Blocks or shackle flip? If you have blocks then you may want to do a shackle flip. A guy on ifsja makes the kit for that or you can fab your own. The ’79 J10 is a pass side drop transfer case. In ’80 they went to driver’s drop. I think the only thing you can swap on a th400 quadratrac is another quadratrac because of a really long output shaft or swap out the th400 with the one that came with the d20. Any other way and the spline count will be wrong. You can get a lot of info at ifsja on this. The quadrapuke has the viscous coupler that’s prolly already worn out and the cones are getting tough to get. Most people get the part time kit and eliminate the viscous coupler. I’m just glad I don’t have one, I have the 727/NP208.

I fixed the shaky speedo. It didn’t seem to be a lube problem. It turned out the speedo cable was 3/8” too long to fit properly in the housing on the tc. When I connected the speedo cable to the tc I had to push the fittings together and screw on the large nut. That put a preload on the speedo cable end to end inside the housing. The fitting on the ‘90 tc this cable came off of must have a recess that allows the extra length. My Comanche doesn’t. The problem wasn’t the extra length of the square drive end but the distance where the cable becomes round again. I relieved the cable back a ½” by removing a complete wrap of cable and silver soldered the cable end to keep it from unwinding. Then I filed the excess solder square. Made the whole cable a ½” shorter to the start of the square ends. I didn’t know how this would work out, but It works perfectly. I finished up the cluster swap and then finished the open rad conversion. Yahoo. Here are some pics.

I’ll check out that cable grease and take some pics when I get a chance to work on the comanche.

Thanks. I’m going to do the lube on the cable next weekend. The cable removes easy now that I have the short cable to the cluster.

I just finished the gauge cluster swap and the open rad conversion. I also swapped in a speedo cable with the pulse generator adapter and recalibrated the mileage on the cluster. Do you think the cable needs lube or the cluster is worn out? I haven’t re-lubed the cable yet and I think I read somewhere to pack grease in the connections to stop the shakes, but I can’t find that info again. The oil pressure and volts read low as far as I can tell. The oil is showing around 20 driving and goes up to 40 if I rev it up, which may be correct for all I know. The volts read about 12.5 running and I show 14.2 at the battery with a meter. The temp seems to be right on and I just put five gallons of gas in on an empty tank and it went to half full. The gas gauge in the original cluster used to do that too and almost went back and forth like a tack when driving so I may need to look at the sending unit about that minor problem. But as for the oil and volts maybe this is a cluster problem or maybe a ground problem?

Hey guys I’ve been out wheeling for four days and when I got back there was a hat for me. Thanks. A little paypal is being sent your way.

I just bought the cat $98, oem muffler $68, and tail pipe $63 from autozone to replace the po’s mixed and matched setup. It fit perfectly, only two clamps and 3” of engagement throughout. I had to buy a cheap $5 puller and modify it to remove the original tail pipe from the rubber drop hangers. That was something to press those bullet nosed ends on the old tail pipe hangers through the rubber mounts to get it off. The new tail pipe has round bar stock simply bent upward so reinstall was easy. I did buy a super 44 and tried it for twenty miles before I removed it. I couldn’t stand the sound coming from the six banger.

Yea they’re metric. I just bought some. 36mm axle nut socket ½ drive. 13mm 12-point socket 3/8 drive 7mm hex 3/8 drive.

Here’s a good write up with part #’s on the seals and upgrading to larger axle joints. http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... dSeals.htm

The balancer is on the front of the crankshaft. The pulley is mounted to the balancer with a rubber sleeve between the two. The front face of the pulley and the balancer should be flush with each other and the rubber may bulge out between the two. If the front face of the pulley is not flush with the face of the balancer then it has started to separate. You better check that clutch fan pulley bearing too. The bearing may be going out and causing a misalignment or the bolt is loose. It should be easy to see.

It sounds like the harmonic balancer could be separating. The pressed on pulley has moved forward out of position by a groove or two. When it separated on my xj it threw the belt twice in five miles before I realized the problem was the balancer had started to separate and was one groove width out of alignment. I took a razor knife and cut an outer rib completely off the belt and put the belt on staggered from top pulleys to the bottom balancer pulley. I ran it like that for 100 miles before I replaced the balancer the following weekend. I keep that belt for emergencies now and it got another employee home when the same thing happened to them in the parking lot. You could cut two ribs off if need be and stagger two grooves.

I figured that cable had something to do with an auto. I couldn’t see one attached to my xj column which has an ax15. I’ll have to find the exploded view of the column in the fsm and see how it comes apart. I hope there’s not an inspection problem for not having the key lever feature. Getting close, only three more parts needed (I think) to do the whole gauge cluster/cruise control/tilt column swap.

Hey guys, I gave up on finding a local tilt column so I scored a tilt column w/cruise and delay wipers from ebay for an 86-94 cherokee. I wonder if there’s some way to verify it’s the correct one for an xj/mj and not for an fsj. Maybe by looking at the pics or by an oal. I don’t have access to another column out of a jeep but looking at my 91 xj it’s similar. A few things I noticed about this column are there’s no finger lever for removing the key. It has a cable on top to activate something. It has an american motors red part # tag on the column. Overall it’s in good shape. The key comes out of the ignition in any position just like all my other jeeps have done lol. Now I am wondering if I should use the rod activated switches already on this column or replace them with the switches on my original non-tilt column.

Here’s a long shot but did the door quit opening after a cold spell? My cherokee door doesn’t unlock sometimes when it gets cold in winter. Thank goodness I live in the southwest. When I go to the wht mtns where it’s real cold it will never unlock so I unlock it before I go up there. One time I didn’t and I wanted that door unlocked real bad so I took a heat gun a heated the door at the mechanism and it opened as if it was the normal 110° outside. Of course if you have a broken linkage you will have to manually get it open.

There’s a gray one on ebay if you’re interested. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-94-Je ... otohosting

Black with the black jeep steering wheel. I haven't found a black one in southern az yet. This last one showed up in a parts xj and it's blue so I was kinda interested. There's some on ebay too but usually without the steering wheel and usually not black.

Thanks guys. It turns out this one doesn't have a key and since it’s not the color I want I’m going to keep searching.

That sounds great. I already have a gauge cluster and cruise control out of an 89 laredo. Once I get a tilt-column I can swap everything at one time. Would that 89 cruise/wiper arm fit this column?

I found an 87 cherokee pioneer tilt-column, no cruise, auto w/ floor-shifter an wondered if there are problems putting it in my 89. I wanted to get an 89 to avoid problems but so far not one found. Should I just wait it out for an 89 or 90 to come along?