TNT

A factory service manual. You'll need to check out the wiring diagrams.

The X-Cab Short Box would be sweet. The long box would be nice if the rear axle was moved back to look like the short box one does.

I think I see a set of these in my future...

A 36" lower link should work good, just triangulate the upper and lowers as much as you can. For the front 36" lower links are about as long as you can go. I'll try and find some good real link set-ups I've saved.

The plan is 2"x6" tube would be run at the red line from the front of the cab to the rear wheelwell. The box will be cut to clear the tube. I might add a piece about 1"x1.5" tube even with the top of the 2"x6" tube to make it wider. I'm eliminating the pinch seam making the bottom of the tube even with the cab floor. I plan on making braces to connect the tube to the frame rails. I was also thinking of making boatsides to keep the cab supports from getting hung up. The boxside will be plated with 16 gauge steel from the bodyline above the rear flare to the bottom. It will also wrap around the back and have different tallights will be added. I will probably plate my street doors on the bottom 8", for trail use some half doors will be made and fully plated. I'm planning on a cage but not a full exo cage. The rollcage will start in the box and connect to an external roof halo with the front tube going threw the fender and tieing into the rockrails. A windshield cross brace and a vertical support tube are also planned. A tube will also run along inside the fender, go threw the header panel to the bumper. It will also tie into the front suspension and go across the engine compartment to tie into the other side. The center of this tube will be removable.

Looks good. I would do the same thing, but I have the D44 axle in my MJ. I still might swap on discs but it's nowhere near as easy. I have a couple of 27 spline 8.25" axles I will be pulling from the XJ's I parting out. If they were 29 spline ones I might use them because they are so simple to set-up with new gears.

So post the pics up. Otherwise you are just teasing us... :D

I'm replacing the rockers on my '89 MJ with some 2"x6" steel tube. I'm trying to decide if I should extend them to the rear wheel openning and trim the box some. I think this way would look the best and keep me from getting hung-up on the back of the cab. My other choice would be to cut off the box at the body line and just do the cab. My worry is getting hung up on the cab if I had to back up after sliding across a boulder. I think the first choice would probably look and work better. Behind the tire my plan is to cut the box off at the body line and the bumper will wrap around underneath to protect it. The box will also have steel plate added for protection for when it get wacked by something. Let me know what you think.

Here's a picture of its stance now. Looks kind of like a prerunner. Image Not Found Old shackle Image Not Found New T&T Customs 6" boomerang shackle Image Not Found Relocated upper mounting hole for proper shackle angle Image Not Found The next task to get rid of the transfercase drop.

Plans... I have more then I have already posted. Too bad the GLXJ Fall Crawl is on the weekend my wifes birthday is on, I already have plans with her.

I think the new design BFG MT KM2 that they are coming out with might have that size. They look kinda like Krawlers. The 17"to 20" sizes are the first ones they are making. SEMA pictures This skould be the finished tread design.

I think this one is the best one yet.... :cheers:

I'm going to do it different. I'm raising the mounts on the front axle. The uppers are going up 2.5" and lowers are going up 2". I want to gain clearance not lose it.

If you are SUA make them into sliders to protect the u-bolts.

Thats a good deal. I have a '85 DRW HP D60 complete being held for me for $400.00. I would already have it but I bought my MJ instead. I don't really need it but I can use it to make some money for my build budget.

My 4.0 HO has a Borla header, downpipe, high flow cat and a 40 series Flowmaster. It flows way better then stock. I didn't notice much if any lost of torque. The mid range to top end horsepower gain was noticeable. I also gained one mpg. Removing the taper in throttle body really helped. It eliminate the trans hunting from OD to D on hills. The throttle response is great and power was gained from the bottom to the top end. It was a great compliment for the exhaust.

Sounds good. Maybe somewhere like Apple Valley , McCaslin, or the Badlands. A trip to Minnesota to check out some of the trails they have there would be a good time too.

I swapped the battery out and went to get some gas. It died once on the way there and when I tried to start it it cranked for 2 seconds and lost all power. Tried it again and it fired up fine. It's probably the ignition switch. Reverse worked fine on level ground, but it popped out once when backing up my driveway, which is kind of steep.

Wow, sounds like he might have some issues. :headpop: It does have entertainment value thou... :brows: Sounds like you'd have to roll her in flour and look for the wet spot... If you Dare.... :eek:

Some of the other plans are to plate the frame, cleanup the rust on the underside and give it a good coating of rustproofing. The gas tank will be replaced by an XJ tank mounted in the bed inside a custom built box that will also carry some spare parts, tools, hi-lift jack, hold the battery and an air tank/compressor set-up. The matching spare tire will be mounted over the box and hinged to swing out of the way. I will be installing a rollbar and probably mounting a shock hoop and running some long travel shocks straight up and down to the top of the rear axle which will be trussed. The rollbar will become a rollcage and have an external roof halo that will tie into the rock rails behind the fenders and then extend to the front bumper. It will also tie into the front suspension mounting points across the engine bay and have a windshield crossbar and support. All the factory decals and emblems will be removed, as will all the chrome trim. Only the front and rear Jeep emblems will remain on it. I will be adding power window and locks from my '95 which is the wiring harness I will be using. I might use the overhead console too. Keyless entry will be nice.

In theory that weakens the system. I did at one time consider adding on a couple loops to the outside of my design to get the same aesthetics without giving up the strength of the straight column, but opted out becasue it would have been a lot of work to fit it into the top corner. I do regret not adding more. :( I would add a cross brace where the tubes bend outward to add some strength. It would tie into the node from the triangulation. This is what I have in mind for my MJ.

Here are some pictures of the front bumper thats going on it. Image Not Found Image Not Found The front flares will be raised like they are on my XJ in the picture above. The gap that is left I fill for a nice finshed off look. The rear flares will be raised also to eliminate the rust. I'm replacing the rocker panels with some 2"x6" to fix that rust. Right now I'm not sure if I'm going to extend it all the way to the rear wheel opening and brace it off on the frame. Otherwise I will cut the lower box off up to the bodyline. The rear box lower quarter will be cut off at the bodyline and I will build a bumper that wraps around to protect it. I'm also adding some box side body panel protection, some more along the bottom of the door and on the cab corner. The box side protection will wrap around the rear incorporating some different taillights and reverse lamps.

I'm going to swap my Optima red top in tonight and look into the wiring. It seems more like wiring to me, once its started I should be able to remove the battery and it would keep running on the alternator. It's like some shut the key off, everything goes dead(even the lights). The trans isn't a big deal it should last until it's swaped out. For now I'll just I hold the shifter, it works fine. Maybe once I remove the transfercase drop it will work better. I'll get some pics of how it looks now if it would stop raining out... Another issue is to find the drone/howling noise that coming from the right front side. I figured it was the tiny tires I drove it home on since it was pulling hard to the right also. I'll swap in a different wheel bearing I have because that's what it seems like to me. No big deal since the front axle is getting replaced anyway.

I just purchased JeepcoMJ's '89 MJ Pioneer, 4.0. Pukegoat 5 speed, 3.07 gears, rear D44 and 6"-10" of lift. I bought it without his 33" tires and the stereo. Here's a link to his build thread. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4665 I have a '94 and a '95 XJ that will be doners for this project. They both are 4.0 HO's with auto trannys and the '94 will supply the 242 transfer case. The '95 will supply the engine and transmission. When JeepcoMJ bought it. Image Not Found After JeepcoMJ lifted it. Image Not Found Just before I bought it. Image Not Found Image Not Found I on put my 33x10.50-15 BFG AT's with black 15x7's with 4" of backspacing yesterday. Today I swapped it back to spring under and added some 6" long T&T Customs boomerang shackles. I also drilled a new hole in the shackle mount 1.25" forward to get the correct shackle angle. So now it has 6.5" of lift in the front and 5.5" of lift in the rear. When I put my front bumper on it it should level out nicely. I still need to remove the transfercase drop. I took it out for a ride and it died twice. It lost all electrical power for about 5 seconds and then it came right back on. I'll need to figure that one out real soon. Any ideas? I also found out it pops out of reverse, it did it 3 times backing up my driveway.

Thanks, I want to start my build thread but couldn't figure out why the pics wouldn't work.