mjcanoe

creekscout, D44's do not have "C" clip retainers. Axle held in @ flange with retaining oplate like AMC 20's. Keep in mind their are 2 seals. One between retainer & brg, one seated in axle tube. You may need a slide hammer puller or could use pry bar against backing plate while gently tapping on back side of hub flange, they will dent if to much force used.Never a bad idea to change diff fluid @ this time due to contaminents & age. Usually every 25-30 k depending on local temps. mjcanoe

creekscout, what year is your mj? mjcanoe

akamcbird, tires will rub w/stock fenders & without proper backspacing will rub on lwr. c/arms. As mentioned econo lift of 2" will keep tires from scrubbing fenders, but, will still rub c/arms. I used torch to heat & roll the lwr. "U" bend on c/arm in on itself. this was a temp. 'till I upgraded to new lwr. c/arms. Kept tires from tearing up. mjcanoe

beaterjeep, I concur w/ Pete, There is a possibilty that the fuel "bowl" in the tank has broken loose, & is affecting the float on sending unit. Does not happen often, but I seen it some over the years. Keep it full & carry a spare gallon or 2. mjcanoe

mjeff87, looks good. I dig your AMC logo, how did you do that? I'm new to this i-net stuff, pics., avatars, etc., so I have no clue. mjcanoe

comancheman, Sorry I can't thick of anything else but grouds right now, if I have an epiphany between now & AM will get back to you. mjcanoe

comancheman, connectors are the same shape, size, location, but, individual wires may be different color, location in connector depending on eng., trans. application, etc. Printed circuit board (plastic) were usally the same for those years. May just need to relocate wire (s) in harness connecter, mjcanoe

comancheman, Have you checked the wire colors & placement in the 2 main connectors for i/p? Double check grounds. mjcanoe

comancheman, Don't give up on swap, I have'86 I swapped '91 into & everything worked out(w/some research). Only could not get OEM tach. online due to Renix/Chrysler difference in PCM. Your problem is due to existing issue brought on by swap, not diffrence of I/P. mjcanoe

comancheman, Sorry, T/S circuit is Turn signal circuit, if I remember correctly there is a ground on left inner kick panel, by park brake. Also ground in engine bay by battery. Not to discourage, but ground has to have good contact thru all connectors. mjcanoe

87manche, Good point. Frt's. were bad for bad grounds, I've even seen that if an 1156 bulb were installed instead of proper 1157 they could cross circuit over from brake/ hazard circuit to park lamp circuit. mjcanoe

comancheman, Sorry I forgot to mention that only direct connection (no pun intended) between lamp circuit & T/s circuit is the ground as I recall. take care, mjcanoe

comancheman, sounds interesting. make sure your hazard switch is not engaged, then I would start looking for ground problem as mentioned earlier. Over the years I have seen very odd manifestations of bad grounds & if hazard was "bumped" on during swap could be giving you fits now. Let me know. Take care, mjcanoe

Perhaps this will help. Your 1st step would be to check wire colors & locations on the 2 connectors for main i/p, ther were minor changes between '88/'89 models. Also between auto & stick's. If you have access, alldata online has wiring diagrams that might help.On certain applications, all jeep did was leave a white piece of non-conductive tape over the c/b of i/p. The other thing I've noticed over the years for that vintage jeep was that the contact points on the wire harness connectors would lose their tension which could be fixed by using a "90 degree" dental pick (snap-on,etc.) to get behind contact & pull up a little,Gently!! take care, mjcanoe.

Lostissues, jeep had a recall for brake interlock, to keep you from shifting from park unless brake applied. Looks like shifter end of cable for an auto, they were adjustable of course which is wht the square "knob" is. If you changed to stick shift, don't need. If you can check online for recall # 733, If I remember, application was all xj & mj Auto's from '84 on up to '94,'95 ? hope this helps. mjcanoe

As was mentioned earlier, 8 1/4's started showing up in dealers in '93. I recall being disappointed at that time when I did PDI's since I'm partial to Dana's. But they have proven themselves.

i've got an '86 oem 2.5 w/ auto that i put a'92 4.0lw/5spd in about 4yrs.ago & 3weeks ago bolted on pacesetter headers from summit. power/torque gains are noticable, but, i am not pleased with fitment. leaks at tri-y connections & at connection to stock pipe.