UNL1MTD

thanks for the pic. Using the eyeball test they look very similar. I'll have them run the part numbers while I'm in there getting the battery tested tonight.

i'll definitely do this when I swap in the extra battery I have laying around. I decided to just walk away from it and tear into a bushel of crabs this evening and hang out with friends. I didn't want to be pissed at the MJ all night. Anybody know the answer to Sorry for the multi-post response, I was having a hard time organizing my thoughts into one post. And thanks for all the responses, I really hate trouble shooting electrical problems.

Having the second horn wirs "hanging" is fine, as long as it's insulated. But you had that 2nd horn wire grounded for quite some time, right? I think your current problem might be related to this, as your entire electrical system suffered shorting problems w/o blowing a fuse. Possibly this short caused an additional electrical problem. First thing I would do is have a load test done on your battery. If it checks out okay, you might done some damage to the alt voltage regulator. I'd start there first ............. I can pull the battery and get a load test done at advanced. Definitely the easiest way to start. While I'm there I can pick up another horn to wire into the circut.

well, once I know I have a problem with something I tend to test it over and over again to make sure its working. Its a bad habit of mine, got it through testing software code.

I've preached this too. First thing I checked when I popped the hood at the dump. The terminals are clean and the connection looks good. I did notice however the cables are or atleast appear to be facotry originals, so they are probably on their last leg.

Well, my MJ decided that it wouldn't start up for me while I was at the dump. Got a jump from a Grand Cherokee (jeep people are good people, didn't even have to ask the guy, just nodded and popped his hood when he saw me) and drove it home (bout 10 mins). On the way to the dump the radio kept cutting out and the horn wasn't working all the time. When I got it home it wouldn't start again. There is some charge in the battery however as the lights come on and everything, just not enough for it to power the starter. I don't have full gauges, but the idiot light with the battery never came on at all and is not on. This sorta came out of no where, but maybe not. Over the last two days its been started 12 times atleast and 9 of those times it was on for less than 3 minutes (most under a minute) and driven no more than 200 feet. (moving mulch around the yard from one spot to another). So its seen a lot of starts. My MJ has a long crank period due to some kind of fuel delivery issue, so I think it takes a lot of charge away from the battery. So my questions- How long does an Alternator take to charge a battery? Are any of the above happenings a sign that my alternator is done? Do the 2.5L and 4.0L share the same alternator? Is having the aux horn wire just hanging out the right thing or does that need to be looped back into the circut some how? (this is the last change I made to the MJ, but that was 12 starts ago) I still got the parts MJ so I can steal that alternator if the parts swap. If not I'll just get a new on. I also have another battery to drop in that should have a full charge on it. Just looking for a little advice before I start on it. Thanks

I used all three techniques; chemical, heat, and physical. By far the physical method of the rubber decal remover wheel was the best. I think I had to luck with heat because my decal was not complete and had many tears in it. The chemical method worked, but way less efective then the rubber decal remover wheel. I did my pass side with Goo Gone, it worked but left a very thin film. I did my driver's side with the rubber wheel. The rubber wheel was about 4 times as fast and nothing was left on the paint. I plan on going over my pass side again with the wheel. Check out this thread. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4849

this is the blurp in JP I checked thier webpage and couldn't find anything about it. Looking at the pic, it might not be possible to put on an MJ without some minor fab and welding. Basically cutting the whole bump tower off, reinforcing it with some steel plate, and drilling some holes for the Bump Cup.

Have they ever worked? I thought i had this problem. Really I just didnt understand the switch. Turn the knob counter clockwise as far as it will go. Your interior lights will come on. Then just back it off a bit clockwise and then your gauges will be lit up. Hopefully its just that.

I've unofficially started my 4wd swap. Last night a buddy came over and we took out the D30 from the Parts MJ. That truck really has been stripped now and is off to the yard. All thats left is the engine, radiator, rear axle, and a rusted out body. I still can't believe I originally thought I could save that truck. Regardless it took us near 3 hours and a 12pk to get it out. Didn't even need to plug in a power tool, granted it would have been faster, but I get a certain satisfication doing this with hand tools and with out cutting everything to pieces. Most of the time was spent fishing the 15mm socket out of the unibody, which dropped in from the upper control arm mount. Glad I had a long magnet and a rusted out body which a hammer could make access holes into. The gears looked to be in great shape. Biggest concern is the driver's sprinig perch, which is a bit rusted. Going to be taking my time stripping the D30 and wire wheeling it. Definitely need to replace the axle side bushings and all brake components. This 4wd swap is going to be one of those long drawn out, no hurry swaps, that very well may never get done. But I figured since I had this D30 with the right gears, I might as well start there. Even if I get it all dressed up and decide not to do the swap, I'll be able to sell it for a decent price.

I saw in the latest issue of JP that they have a new ACOS with an integrated Air or Hydrolic Bump Stop. It looks freakn awesome. I think they had it at EJS this year and were showing it off. I'll have to re-look at that tonight.

you looking to keep the short arms or move up to long arms? You try just piecing everything you want together? Might be able to come in at your budget.

Found a company called Thermo Tec, they got tons of solutions. Looks like Summit carries their full line up, so that'll make ordering easy if I decide to do it. http://www.thermotec.com/

I bought mine from Monstronix. Brand Name : SG Tool Aid Model Number : SGT17900 Product Desc : Autobody Eraser Wheel with Arbor Quantity : 1 Price/Unit : 12.2737 They tacked on a lot for shipping though, right at 20 bucks total. I never tried to source one locally.

Sorry to dig up a thread from the dead, but I figured I should follow up. I got my decal remover in the mail the other day and I've finished stripping the other side. This thing is basically a rubber wheel with an arbor on it to put it into a drill. You got to keep the drill on a slow speed and it helps to have an additional handle on it to keep it steady. Too fast of a speed and you'll burn the paint or go straight through to the primer. That said, this thing is pretty awesome. Put it into the drill and it just wipes off the decals. Did all of my sportruck on the driver's side in about 1.5hrs. I know its no 20 minutes, but it took off the goo to, so all I needed to do was give it a quick spray and wipe. I'm really impressed with the thing and it was only 15 bucks. Plus you get to use a power tool...always a bonus. It leaves no marks whatsoever on the finish. In comparison to the passenger side I did with just goo gone, the driver's side is much better. There is a touch of residue on the pass side, which I'm going to go over with the wheel when I get a chance.

I just did mine. 2wd, but the fill is definitely on the pass side. And for me the drain is at the rear of the housing. Fill and Drain take an 8mm square key. I opted to use a piece of 5/16th aluminum stock at the hardware store instead of the 3/8ths extension. THe stock was about 2 dollars. I filled it down until it fit the plug (not much). Then I put it in a vice and bent it into a "L" shape like an allen key. Works awesome.

stopped in Advanced and NAPA, neither one carriers any kind of shielding like I was refering to. Advanced carries the wrap stuff but its pricey at 45 bucks. NAPA mentioned that the only time they sell muffler shields is if it comes with the muffler. I guess I'm gonna just deal for now.

even worse...mrjeff87 will get a kick out of this... flashback 2 Sundays - I pop the hood and ask Jeff about this wire I had that the PO grounded to the chasis. I said everything seemed to be working but it just didnt look right. He said maybe its for factory fogs ... As soon as I saw that wiring diagram I knew that wire was indeed for the second horn. Disconnected it from the chasis and plugged the relay back in. :cheers: :D I got my horn back and at no cost! Thanks for everyone's help. Especially hornbrod for that wiring diagram. I'm thinking I might even add another horn so it sounds a bit meaner.

is there suppose to be two horns? on all years? I only got one. Its just on the driver's side.

Yea my TJ definitely does, I guess thats a difference in the Renix/HO engine wirings. So I got the White thing in front of me. Couple markings on it. 25523703 along one side 7054 along another side F in a corner and thats it google says http://www.pacvette.com/store/store.pl?part=25523703 so I guess I'll get a replacement

are you talking about the stuff you wrap around your pipes? I was thinking more like the tin foilish stuff (techincal term). But I got no clue how it works. I'm going to stop in Advanced Auto and poke around. Hopefully its cheap.

Not sure what PDC stands for, but I popped the plastic cover off the thing that said 'RELAY CENTER' inside the engine bay on the passenger side. Found 3 blue relays and I had no diagram. Looks like there was one there at one point in time, but it was a sticker and washed off. No matter. The sound of the Relay is LOUD and inside the cabin, so I was confused as to how I could hear it in the engine bay when driving. I traced the wired from the horn, it is gray. No visible tears or cuts from horn to wiring loom. Loom goes from driver's headlight directly to the cabin. No where close to the 'RELAY CENTER.' So I look at the fuse box and there is a gray wire with a white relay attached to it. I pull it off. It only has three terminals which confuses me. Start up the truck. Honk the horn. No horn, all electronics happy. So I am going to try and fetch a new one of these today and see what happens. Maybe buy a new horn too. Is it possible that the reason the previous horn went bad was because of too much current going to it or something? I couldn't find a fuse in the fuse panel for the horn, is there one?

Anyone ever rig up some exhaust shielding to cover the turn in the down pipe that runs under the cab just before the cat? The cab get mighty toasty there and with no AC I figure this maybe well worth the investment. I've never messed around with the stuff before and have no clue how hard it would be to install. I was looking to do something under the cab, opposed to say dynamat which would be under the vinyl. Anybody have any experiences with it or even better pictures?

got way sidetracked yesterday and only pulled the wire off the horn. didn't fuss with the relay. it still loaded down all the electronics with the horn unplugged, so i guess its the relay. I'll have to pull that in the parking lot here soon to know for sure. Anybody know what color it is? I'm assuming its near the fuse panel.

good call. i'll give that a go tonight.