RynoMJ

I’m running a Spartan in the front and a Detroit in the rear. I don’t drive it on the street though so I can’t comment on that but I can tell you the Spartan has held up great over the years no complaints.

Interesting, that's definitely in the future so not sure what I'll do when I get to that bridge. Been reading through the XJ/MJ/ZJ master cylinder thread on pirate, lots of good info in there and most guys that comment with HB really like it. I was originally just looking for an easy swap to get a better pedal. I'll have to do some more reading up on the hydroboost but right now it would require alot more to get it set up, new reservoir new lines, new master and booster. Vanco seems to have a fairly complete kit but reading that most people have luck with junkyard stuff too. Decisions decisions.

The thought has crossed my mind as one of the guys I wheel with has hydroboost. I’ve done a little reading on it and seems like it works really well for some people or horribly for others. I’m concerned the rest of my system (hydro assist) pump and what not are up to the task.

Thank you for the info I’ll look into that a little further.

I can always swap back to an XJ dual booster that’s not a big deal. Just looking to make this as easy as possible bolt up wise. What year 2500 is your master out of?

Checking on rock auto looks like Fronts are 2 pistons per caliper at 2.12” Rear 2 pistons per side at 1.77”

I have an 88 MJ with Dana 60's front and rear. I upgraded to a WJ MC and booster when I originally did the axles swap for the better brakes but I really have to push the pedal down pretty far to get this thing to stop. It does stop and holds on an incline but i really don't think the WJ master is enough for the larger brakes. Does this sound right? Is there a MC I can swap in to help with the bigger calipers. What I'm currently running: WJ booster and master load sensing valve deleted Single line ran to the rear brakes wilwood prop valve for the rear (had issues with the rear calipers getting stuck) All new brake lines combo of steel and flexible stainless Thoughts?

Going to pull everything apart flush the system. Looking to replace the MJ block with something like this? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11179

So keep the stock MJ distribution block just add a prop valve before the rear. Does it send too much pressure to the rear or something? I’ve been trying to read up on this there’s alot of different information or thoughts.

I have a dana 60 in the rear and a WJ master. I've deleted the rear prop valve and currently have one line running to the rear then split at the axle. Stock distribution block. The last few times out I've had issues with my rear brakes locking up. I crack the bleeders and they loosen up so I'm believing its not a caliper issue. I'm guessing it has something to do with the stock distribution block? Any thoughts on how to correct this. Use an after market prop valve maybe? Thanks in advance.

Some of it yes.

In October 2017 I added 2x6 to the rockers. Still have problems twisting my rear drive shaft.

In September I decided I wanted to bob the bed. I ended up taking 8" out of it.

I took it on a few trips from January to August 2017.

After breaking a hub on the first run I decided to ditch the hubs and run 35 spline outers and drive slugs.

I probably will.

I'm really looking to add some slider protection before I head back out on the trails. Got lucky last time but that will run out. I've have an idea what I want to do for the actual sliders but I'm looking for some MJ specific help on mounting. Are you guys attaching to the pinch seam or just using legs to mount them to the frame. When bolting to the frame I'd like to avoid using self threading bolts. Are weld nuts better?

PSC recommends you buy their box. You're right its not the normal way, when/if the box take a dump I will try it the other way but for right now it works fine.

Picked up some 40" goodyears Rear is a Dana 60 from an E350. its ~65" WMS. These 60's have larger spindles to allow 35 spline shafts without having to bore anything out. Ready for its first run. First run went well until I was messing around at the end of the day and broke a front hub and destroyed the rear drive shaft. Little body damage and some more trimming is needed. On the to do list: Sliders Drive slugs and 35 spline outers

I'm using hydro assist PSC ram and pump. I tapped the stock box, so far so good. Tight fit with the electic fan shroud but it works. Trans and PS coolers Stock airbox had to go due to the new fenders The front axle is a Dana 60 from a 99-04 f250 Spartan locker, warn hubs, 5.38 gears its narrowed to 64" WMS. Front susepnsion is Clayton long arms with Rubicon Express 5" coils

I had previously built an 89 LWB MJ but had but I wanted to go a different route so I sold it and bought a bone stock 88 2wd 5 speed short bed. Started collecting parts and tearing it down. Bench seat had to go. Doesnt keep your butt stable while your slopping around on the trails. Picked up some cherokee buckets that will work. Perks of buying a NE jeep. Lucky me. Lets start cutting stuff and making room. Bye bye dana 30 I'm aiming for 40" tires with as little lift as possible. To help with this I got some TNT inner fenders. I did not enjoy the 5 speed on the trail in my last MJ so I opted for an AW4 this time around. I'm using an electronic shifter from RAdesign mounted in a stock console and it works flawlessly.

I did what gogomorgo did. Locked the CAD over until I was doing gears and a front locker than just installed the 1 piece shaft and the new seals at the same time.

Unfortunately I don't thinkshe hydrolic method will work anymore. Just going to get the transmission up in there and see where I'm at. I read on a thread somewhere that someone put an aw4 into an 87 without removing the collar.

Tried a blind hole puller there's no edge for the teeth to grab. The bearing/bushing is out its the collar around the bearing I'm working on.