90PioSport99

Pete, I am a big fan of the spam trap also, great idea on both of the new areas! I approve.

I wish this was NAXJA, I'd use the puke smilie.

You owe Brian a beer Dustin.

Don't forget Dodge Magnum, Charger and Chrysler 300 wheels.

I agree with Jared that it would look very sexy indeed, I'm just not sure where you would tuck everything.

:oops:

Or you can ditch the flare like I did and just use a product similar to Trim Lok.

They did change it some although if you use the compressor bracket, compressor and lines, it can be done.

Jeepco, I don't know about your 2.5L but what I'm a fan of doing on 4.0Ls anyway is eliminating that heater valve like on the 97+ XJs. It is one less weak part in the system. Just for kicks whenever you get a chance, would you take a picture of your heater hoses so I could see the routing? I would also lean more towards a clogged heater core, but the valve would be a place to start.

I would say it's not very hard but it's going to be time consuming. You will need to add a compressor, condenser, evaporator, receiver drier, expansion valve and A/C lines. To put the evaporator in you have to pull out the right side of the dash, that is by far the hardest part and it's not that bad. You will also have to get a new section of wiring for the A/C controls and such which may or may not be present in your truck the way it sits now. If it's a truck you really care about or is your DD go for it, otherwise, I wouldn't bother.

The problem is that will not work with a Renix (GM) alternator. That's why you need the 2.5l XJ one.

This is the best I can do for ya. I never had the guts to install it because I didn't want to delete my clutch fan on the MJ. The flat part bolts to the block, and it had a GM (same as a Renix style) alternator in it. I know it'll work I just never got too involved with it. Here's the pictures though.

You use a bracket off of a fuel injected 2.5l XJ or MJ. The bracket was on top from the factory on those and bolts to the same holes as your existing A/C bracket does. The problem is you have to figure out what to do about your clutch fan since there is no longer a pulley for it. You also have to figure out a belt length.

That is actually the Coolant Temperature Sensor which feeds information to the computer. It is a completely separate entity from the gauge/light sender.

The sending unit that controls your idiot light is a brass fitting in the back of the head on the driver's side. It takes a deep 13mm socket on about a 12" extension to get it. If you can, dig up a sending unit and a full gauge cluster from a higher optioned XJ, that way you actually have some clue as to what is going on. It would drive me nuts relying on idiot lights. As far as the overheating issue, try to bleed the closed system. If bleeding the closed system doesn't work, and you've replaced everything else, I'd consider going to the open system. Hope this helps. -Collin

Well I didn't even make it wheeling this weekend so I didn't put any stress on the bedsides. I will brace them somehow before I drive it too much though. Thanks for the input guys.

Hey---I did that too!!! I have floppy bedsides too!!!! :cheers: Shoot man, if mine was still red we'd have twins.

Does it put strain on the spotwelds at the front or what?

Hey guys, I just cut about 90% of the rust my MJ has today by trimming the rear fender areas. I got rid of the entire flared out part (where the holes for the flares reside) on each side of the bed. I knew what the result was going into this since I cut away the spot welds holding the inner "support" of the bed to the bedsides. Anyway, my question is, having it this floppy, is it an actual structural problem? I want to think it's not much of one since the bedsides don't really start out as a structural support in the first place. They are floppy and I am going to reinforce them, but I'm going to be doing a little wheeling this weekend, and just want to make sure driving it 40 miles highway each way won't be a problem. I can see no reason why the bedsides would affect anything plus I know a lot of you guys completely fold or cut off the rear area up to almost the tailights. Anyway, if any of you have an opinion on this let me know. I will say it looks a lot better than having the rust and I lined it with Trim-Lok so it looks pretty sharp. I'll try to get pictures up tomorrow so you guys can see for sure what I did. Thanks in advance for any help too. -Collin

The first time I did a 4.0 it took me a summer too. The next time it took me 8 hours. When I converted my MJ to 4wd it took me 2 full days working on it, and it could've been done quicker. It definitely varies from person to person and experience level though.

I'll tell ya one thing, you're not going to have any heat. And I imagine if you try to hook th heater core back up, it's gonna leak like a sieve. A heater core isn't that big of a deal though. Other than that, I think that is just the typical 2.5FI wiring harness, just a lot messier. Renix systems didn't have clean wiring harnesses to start out with, but as long as it runs okay, I'd say go for it.

Well if Rokhound decides not to trade straight up with me, I will have the swampers up for sale. I'd need to get about $600 for them since I have actually a little over that invested. I've got the 4 seen and then a brand new unmounted spare. I will let you know what happens and I'll try to get a picture of the claws on there tomorrow.

Hey cool Brian you finally got a picture of it. How's the progress coming by the way?

Nah man, I work all day and don't have time to take pictures til night :roll:. I think the wider tires will be a nice change on it, when it was red I liked the skinnier tires because it gave it the "tractor look" but now I'm ready for something a bit different. It has changed a bunch and it's not done yet. Thanks, I really took a lot of time on the header panel so it shows the most texture, I need to give the rest of it a couple more coats to even it out some. I will jamb the actual doors themselves too, I've just been too lazy yet and I don't have them on all that much. That's why I've been holding off on the bed too, I figure it sees so much abrasive stuff I might as well just leave the factory (harder) paint down til I do a liner of some variety. Thanks for the compliment. Yeah I considered fixing that part of the cab, I'm just not much for body work. That part of the cab corner and the back side of the box already had some really crappy body work done on it at one time. I'm thinking if I get good enough at welding I'll eventually just get some new metal in there rather than puttying it up. Thanks for all the compliments guys! Keep the thoughts coming.

Hey everyone, thought I'd do a little update. The MJ is finally 4x4. A new bumper is now on it that came off one of my other Jeeps. I also decided on a color and got the whole Comanche (minus the bed) sprayed. I used Rustoleum Hammered Paint for the whole thing since I get it discounted from where I work. It seems to be tough stuff. I have found out you have to lay it on thick for it to show the "hammered" finish but when you do it looks good. Anyway enough blah blah, here's the pictures... Red bed still... I even did the door jambs to match the two tone paint scheme for when I'm running doorless, isn't that bitchin? And a close up of the hammered texture... Let me know what you guys think. -Collin