JeepcoMJ

haha. i'm cheap, i don't pay for things like that to be done. i'd rather play musical injectors with my parts engine ;) thanks though. draining the tank and pumping the lines dry along with swapping in a different fuel rail and injectors. none of this costs $$$ just time...

MOJOMJ (my brother), will also make it out to this event. he's yet to post up on here...but will sooner or later.

fact: you'd be better off installing a 4 cylinder 2.5 litre than you would rebuilding the 2.8 fiction: the 2.8 can be built to be better :D :brows: I dumped my 2.8 for a buick 3800. not a swap you'd be interested in pretty much since it requires alot of fabrication. it's a very similar motor to the 3.4 however...the 3.4 camaro/firebird motor is your next viable option. best bet since you're on a timeline, buy a 3.4 longblock (crate longblock with heads), and buy an edelbrock 4 bble intake and holley 390cfm carbeurator. you'll need a electric fuel pump but one from a 2.5 liter comanche would suffice...you might have to buy a pressure adjuster for it then since carb'd motors only run like 7 PSI of fuel. here's the intake you want. second one down in the list (if this link doesn't work, type in "gm 2.8 4bbl intake" in google, it's the second link second picture. http://www.ajgeneral.com/edelbrock_sbc_manifolds/ here's a few links on the swap from 2.8 to 3.4. keep in mind that at least half of your problem is the factory carbeurator...so don't even consider using the factory carb like one of these links does http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Pro ... ect_XJ.htm http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/a ... ?id=277008 http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl= ... n%26sa%3DN the best thing you could do is get all the parts out of a camaro and put them in your comanche, running the camaro engine bay wiring (trim out all the camaro extra wiring) piggyback to the jeep wiring, and using the MPFI from the camaro (or firebird). this would net the best performance...but you can get good performance from the 390cfm 4bbl carb as well. -Pat

replace them WHILE the axle is OUT of the jeep. if you weren't taking it completely out...you may as well (if you're doing a complete lift right now) then you can use a large hammer to knock the old ones out and put the new ones in. in the vehicle, there's no swinging room and you will need something like a ball joint press to put them in the axle. also, pay attention to how the old ones were installed...it does matter.

:agree: and just because you need the window regulator doesn't mean you should shatter the window.

they search our toolboxes too and usually make us empty pockets but usually it's not worth a dime to them so they let it pass.

lol. you misunderstand. i'm talking like the oem jeep switches, an electrical connector, sunvisor tabs. the two yards i have done this at both owners are family friends and tell me not to even bother them with it because it's not even scrap value to them...they actually tell that to anyone they like :D so i'm guessing that this would be classified as a wisconsin thing.

a CDI is an engine computer. CDI is what is used to control the engine on say a snowmobile or motorcycle. it's a small engine version of an ECU. so he's swapping terms here i believe. either that, or he really just means CPS but i doubt that.

what do you guys think of pocket items? the term "pocket item" is used to loosely describe an item which fits in your pocket or article of clothing which you take knowing no one else will care. I personally am a fan of them. mind you, i know all of the owners of my local junkyards and they'd rather that i don't bother them with small piddly parts. anyone else experience this? or is it another wisconsin thing?

sell me the black interior first! :D

:eek: :cry: guess it's time to pull the system apart...

where is this being held at? I would like to go...

tank was empty it's running premium...around 5 gallons of it...

first off, i haven't really troubleshot this too much. picked up a 87 shortbed that's been in a barn for the past 7 or 8 years. it's a 4.0 auto 2wd. was told it doesn't run (bull i got it running in 2 hours of futzing around with fuel delivery) it idles great. but beyond that, nothing. if you give it more than 1/8 throttle, it sputters, misses, dies out. i've swapped MAP sensor, throttle body, and fuel filter and those don't seem to be the problem. the fuel pressure at the rail at idle is 32PSI and it gets a bit sporadic when using the throttle. so i'm leaning towards it being a bad fuel pump which is sending pressure but not volume, or possibly a CPS. the spark plugs are new with .035 gap, new wires cap and rotor. I'm really not sure what it could be...i even chopped the exhaust off hoping that might fix it. ideas?

called vent-wing windows and yes, comanches did have them as well. it is an option.

update; cleaned it today (finally) with the pressure washer. also removed the stupid factory tow mirrors...gotta figure out what to do about the holes in the door from those. in pressure washing it, i've discovered that there are WAY MORE chips in the front clip, fenders, and hood, than i'd previously thought. now, i'm not gonna go sanding everything down, so i figure it's the perfect time for a 97+conversion :D also installed the drop-in bedliner i had laying around, and sadly i accidently blasted part of the tailgate JEEP decal off so i just took them all off :( Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found pics with my bro's second mj, the new white one, 3800 and beaterjeep's 4.0 donor (90xj) in the backround. Image Not Found Image Not Found steve (bro) put a set of TJ military decals on it Image Not Found tomorrow night i'll futz with the engine a bit more. atm it looks like it's either a CPS issue, or not enough fuel pressure. i haven't had time to get underneath it yet really so i haven't messed with that. i've already replaced the TB and MAP's not once but twice (spares) so it's not that, plugs and wires are new as well.

you've got a vacuum canister issue i'm sure.

that wiring is not present in an MJ

The round one looks more like the light for the power/comfort switch. CW I forgot there was a light there. What is the option for the other switch that goes next to the power/comfort switch. Is it the rear wiper? MJ's don't have another connector in that spot at all. this is as stated the power/comfort connector and it's light connector.

:P i only need to get the new mj running right, swap it to 4wd, lift it to 6.5" lift, and buy TNT's old 33" tires so i've got wheels. oh, and get the rat smell out of the inside of it... :roll: I'm excited :D

I'd let you have the tranny. but i guess it's tired too...so you're probably better off getting a lower miles one.

The only reason I wanted the handle off was so I could stick these things on...I tried to pull the handle through the opening and wtihout cutting, it wasn't going to work... http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/Detailed/1948.html sure it will. pop the handle bezel off and slide the main handle part through it :D

We're yanking the 2.8 and TF904 out of beaterjeep's jeep in the next few months....but won't be right away. why not convert to a 5 speed? I have all of the parts to do it...

i never remove the interior door handle when i take door panels off. all you gotta do is unscrew it all, get the door panel loose, lift it off of the rubber strip on top, pull back, then twist and slide the door handle right through (it's not as complicated as it sounds) as far as the wiring, you could have just popped the rubber for that connector out and fished it back into the cab.

something got screwed up that's vacuum related if it won't shut itself out. plus the valve doesn't work then. no, you can't remove just the glovebox area, though it would be nice. the whole dash only holds in with 2 15mm bolts on the sides, something of the like size nuts for the steering column, and 3 5/16 sheetmetal screws up front on top. it's about a 20 minute job for me to yank a dash.