JeepcoMJ

new OBA tank from an old Peterbuilt. compete with stands :D. now the tool box in back is going to have to go on someone elses jeep.

welcome! ...the starter will be in stock at an advance auto, bumper to bumper, or likewise. if not, it's a day to get it usually. the tie rod you can get from a cherokee. to take one off without a pickle fork, remove the cotter pin, remove the nut, then thread the nut on just a bit. grab a cro-bar and wedge it between the tie rod and the part which the tie rod end is bolted through. hammer on the part that the tie rod goes through (NOT the tie rod) while applying force to the cro-bar. 215's should be your stockers, 235's you may notice a little bit of decrease in giddyup. the transmission you have is an aw4 automatic. the only years for that transmission in a cherokee or comanche with 4 cylinder are 87 and 88...it requires a special computer (don't worry they are factory installed) to run with a 4 cylinder, and a different (and rare) bellhousing and torque converter. run it in power option on the switch only. it is more economical in the power option than in the comfort option, and it should give you a somewhat noticeable increase in acceleration. the switch is completely pointless and 1991+ jeeps equipped with the aw4 have the power setting hardwired in with no switch. -Pat

BAHAHA. tim, NO. you did not... lol. well, I will be home tomorrow and will ge back to work on it...

haha. I got another one.... of the two, who do you think would win?; Bert, or Ernie? :rotf:

here's the fuel pumps. the silver one is renix, gold is H.O. they're not even close to being interchangeable. overhead view. only thing I don't like is the blue spark plug wires the white paint on the inner fenders and firewall really isn't that clean. not happy about that...it got oil sprayed everwhere. need to install the hood, cowl, wipers. (and finish the wiring hanging from the mirror :ack: ) interior basically finished. trans control panel. there is a torque converter lockup switch, 1st gear lock-in switch, and trans temp gauge. new location of the 4x4 CAD air switch...directly between the stock center console and the remnant of the xj full center console.

Is that because you didn't use the '95 trans or because the firewall is different? trans are identical (the one in the truck is out of a 95 also), it's just because there wasn't a hole in the firewall. now there is...I didn't feel the need to crawl under the xj to pull the cable, plus the routing of it was kinda ghey and looked tedious. got the center console area "done", dash is "done" engine bay is "done". what's left; double-check fluids after first test drive. install speedo sensor and wire (already connected, just need to swap with old cable) wire tail lights install aux. fan install my aux. fan wiring harness, and fog light wiring harnesses with relays. tie down various wires and hoses install hood, wiper shroud, and wiper arms and blades. then in the future wire the stereo from the 3800 into it and install the power locks, windows, and mirrors. here's the fuel pumps. the silver one is renix, gold is H.O. they're not even close to being interchangeable. overhead view. only thing I don't like is the blue spark plug wires the white paint on the inner fenders and firewall really isn't that clean. not happy about that...it got oil sprayed everwhere. need to install the hood, cowl, wipers. (and finish the wiring hanging from the mirror :ack: ) interior basically finished. trans control panel. there is a torque converter lockup switch, 1st gear lock-in switch, and trans temp gauge. new location of the 4x4 CAD air switch...directly between the stock center console and the remnant of the xj full center console.

the 95 shifter cable won't work...gotta use the one off the xj behind the barn. don't want to drill even more holes through the firewall.

floor shifter out of the cherokee. but when I put the floor shifter in the 1-2 position, I can select to lock it in to 1st gear by flipping a switch. I can also lock the torque converter in any gear.

chupacabra. he'd suck out their blood in seconds.

yup :D even got a nice steady 50PSI idle oil pressure :brows:

black is negative. screw holes are put there at the factory regardless of whether or not they get the speakers installed.

:yes: :clapping: :banana: :banana: RUNS AWESOME! :cheers: :brows: 8) :bowdown: I've just got to top off all fluids, put the proper coolant temp sender in, install the dust shield on trans, install the transmission shifter, connect the crossover pipe to the catalytic, hook up a few small vacuum items, splice the trans. control switches in, splice tail lights, aand re-install the kneeboard and center console. oh, she sounds BEAUTIFUL while doing a peel btw :rotf:

:yes: :clapping: :banana: :banana: RUNS AWESOME! :cheers: :brows: 8) :bowdown: I've just got to top off all fluids, put the proper coolant temp sender in, install the dust shield on trans, install the transmission shifter, connect the crossover pipe to the catalytic, hook up a few small vacuum items, splice the trans. control switches in, splice tail lights, aand re-install the kneeboard and center console. oh, she sounds BEAUTIFUL while doing a peel btw :rotf:

*shrug* i wasn't even aware of this. didn't drop the tank, exhaust, or rear driveshaft to do the job, because each of those removals suck to do.

:clapping: could not have said it better.

wired it to run, installed distributor and related parts, filled with oil, bolted down torque converter, and started it up for the first time

it's a jumper wire with a plunger button on it, hook one end to the power on the battery, one end to the solenoid wire on the starter. turn key on, push button while looking in the engine bay. think go-baby-go button off of a shifter. nope, all vacuum was plugged...and the only vacuum disconnected was the charcoal canister and plumbing for vac. reservoir/heaterbox. it's the distributor. cylinder number one was literally just before TDC and the distributor installed was hitting directly on, or slightly after TDC. I need to move it counterclockwise by one tooth, and it will run properly.

it runs! :thumbsup: :banana: :brows: 8) just not well. I have to fill it with coolant, and transmission fluid. then install the coolant sensor then figure out why the starter doesn't come on when you turn the key...you have to manually start it with my plunger button right now install the dust shield on the trans. install the shifter cable and linkage install PCV valve on valve cover, and figure out the vacuum system. install coolant reservoir and connect. install aux. fan. wire in tail lights. install crossover pipe.

there are two connectors going to the rear on the MJ harness...one of them is for speakers and interior wiring such as the cargo light and dome lights, the other goes to the tail lights. anyways, I tore the xj rear wiring apart and removed everything from the rear doors on back, then cut it all apart and removed the fuel pump connector, then swapped the two pins on my fuel pump connector to reverse polarity. dug through my parts and found a junk 2.5 interior harness from an 89 MJ, then cut the two connectors out so I could make an adapter connector. I'm going back outside to put the fuel pump back in it (which has proven to be an absolute b*@$£ because of the slosh tray inside the tank), then to drop in the distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, starter, and battery wiring. will be working on it until it's running tonight...I've found the two fuel pump wires in each harness so that's all I need for it to run.

there are two connectors going to the rear on the MJ harness...one of them is for speakers and interior wiring such as the cargo light and dome lights, the other goes to the tail lights. anyways, I tore the xj rear wiring apart and removed everything from the rear doors on back, then cut it all apart and removed the fuel pump connector, then swapped the two pins on my fuel pump connector to reverse polarity. dug through my parts and found a junk 2.5 interior harness from an 89 MJ, then cut the two connectors out so I could make an adapter connector. I'm going back outside to put the fuel pump back in it (which has proven to be an absolute b*@$£ because of the slosh tray inside the tank), then to drop in the distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, starter, and battery wiring. will be working on it until it's running tonight...I've found the two fuel pump wires in each harness so that's all I need for it to run.

okay, so I got... a SWEET bowler cap thinger (now I need a pipe, mustache, and monocle ;)) a wicked cool light sweater (everyone dreads these, but this one is actually pretty cool) a new wire cutter and crimper (a nice one not a cheapo) a new wire strippers (nice not cheap) a pretty heavy duty wire light tester C-3PO bobblehead (I'm a star wars nut) $125 in cash then my dad, bro, and I all pitched in and bought a bunch of 1/2" barb fittings and associated 90's and mounts to plumb the shop with air (using 1/2" 200PSI tube), a new bench grinder with magnifying glass to see the bits we're sharpening, some new lights and such as well as some extension cords. we also are buying a new 3 or 4 ton aluminum jack when we find one. it's a decent christmas...not a ton of money spent, but everything was pretty cool. only just today I realized I forgot to ask for a new wallet :doh: (mine broke in half today...)

well, I got the dash and interior wiring back in, and the steering column mounted up. now all that is left is; install starter and battery wires, splice one wire for + to fuse box install distributor cap rotor plugs and wires bolt up torque converter and install dust shield install cross-pipe for borla install coolant reservoir install speedo sensor and wiring harness then fill it with coolant, and splice the wires. I also have to put the fuel pump back in, but will be just putting the renix pump back in as adapting the H.O. pump will kinda suck. it will at least run decent enough off of renix to move it. as for the 95 column, the bottom mount is actually just a guide...it's either ceramic or plastic composit, and not bolted on. it slides and turns easy, and the lower bolt lines up properly. just had to drill one hole. oh, there are some random interior things to be done yet too, but I'm none too concerned about those. column installed gauges and mileage on the xj i took the parts from. I'm changing the mileage to zero before I drive anywhere, and having it professionally done with a disclosure statement. I'm not trying to fool anyone, just to catalogue the miles on it since build. out to go get that shtuff done.

ah. Marcel, I see where you're going with this :popcorn:

two bolts into the bellhousing, one + battery wire, and one ignition wire. of course, disconnect the battery first. and..it may just be dirty connections. have you ever cleaned them all?

I don't understand the purpose of repairing something that is just going to fail again. that said, the u-bolt looks pretty chintzy considering you took all that work to fix the unit. why don't you use a piece of flat stock, or just use the factory piece.