LocoJeeper

i have a 21-spline version pulled from an XJ waiting to swap into my 89 MJ. From what I understand its only incrementally weaker then the 231, and offers 4-wheel-all-the-time... which in DD is a good idea. A little bit of a hit in MPG, but i only drive 4 or so miles to get to work. You should also swap out the front axle to a non-cad (center axle disconnect) version in order to take full advantage of the all-time-4wd. God Bless, Ben @ Loco4WD.com

Is that a bungie cord holding whats left of the tailgate on?

I am not sure about bolting up... but in do know that the ax5 isn't going to stand up to much more then a little bit v6. Probably have to swap to the AX15 before anything... I'm sure someone will chime in with a good swap combo.

Okay... so i think I'm having a little bit of a "coming to terms" with my jeep addiction. Long story short i am thinking of selling my MJ and picking up a 3/4 diesel (just an idea, nothing lined up yet) so I can tow my YJ to competitions in 2009. So I have to decide whether I should sell it now (its my DD, just more or less stock) or complete the build (i already have 95% of the parts) and then sell it. When its done it would be: 89 Jeep Comanche Pioneer Blue with "sun burned" clear coat Body in very good shape (only light surface rust on the under carriage) AW4 auto Straight 6 with 133k miles NP-242 t-case Dana 44 rear HP30 front 4.5" lift with RE components 33x12.5 Super Swamper Trxus MT ~40% tread life on Crager soft 8's K&N FIPK with 91+ XJ throttle body swap Bucket seats and XJ center console Bushwacker pocket fender cut-out fender flares 12" bed box Grant steering wheel Painless wiring accessory fuse block Pioneer head unit with iPod control box Right now the lift, axles and tires are not swapped over. What would you pay for it? (assuming you had the money).

I think I got what your saying. Just create a cable that goes from the end of the XJ mechanism to the MJ adjuster bracketry .... seems like the cleanest idea i've seen. I'd be interested in hearing/seeing how it turns out. Looks like since it's almost 1pm and I gotta be at the jeep club meeting tonight (about 1 hour away) I think i'll just call it quits for today and tackle this project next week. Let me know how it turns out.

Perhaps... however it is about 3 1/2 feet and about a 4" height increase (to accomodate for the difference in cab and height ground clearance). Not really liking the idea of having that much of an un-protected mechanism exposed.

double post.

Here's what i've found out so far. The MJ has the brake adjuster mounted mid-way under the bed with relatively short cables running from the adjuster to each drum brake. Then the cable (that I now took out) runs from the adjuster through the rear of the cab to the drivers side kick plate. The XJ's with the hand brake have the adjuster at the underside of the lever itself and then further down the transmission hump have two little clips to hold in each cable and then have longer cables running to each drum brake. According to this website, a now common trick is to replace the existing rear XJ cables that have an overall length of 54" with the passenger side cables from a 91-95 Wrangler netting an overall 71.75" in length. With that thought in mind I crawled under my stock height swb comanche and took a wire running it along the existing rear cable line and extending it to the adjuster on the new hand parking brake. I cut it, removed it, then measured.... dramatic pause more dramatic pause Looks like a requirement of approx 84" to use an XJ style adjuster mount. Rats. Okay... back to the internet. I'd really like to see a picture of the adjuster / cables of someone who has a working hand brake. Pretty pa-leeze?!?!?

Hello gang, So today's project is to actually get that center console parking brake that I swapped in from XJ to actually... um.... park the brakes, so to speak. Crawling underneath the MJ today I saw where the old foot pedal cable came out and the bracket that attaches to the left and right cable. Then I see where the hand brake comes through the floor. But then theres another one of those brackets attached to end of the adjustment rod on the hand brake. And it doesn't appear to be a straight shot to the rear wheels. What to do? I assume XJ rear cables won't work because of the distance. I looked online and they seem to specify a single cable for 6 and one for 7 foot beds. But no differentiation between foot or hand parking brakes. I am going back to the search button for a little while. Anyone that can give me some advice before I run to the parts store and try to sneak in the back so I can measure cables... God Bless, Ben

I've heard from fairly knowledgable sources that the HP30 found under our MJ's is just a hair weaker then the Low-Pinion Dana 44. Something about how the gears mesh together.

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/BensXJ.htm That's about the most thorough write up i've seen. Covers all the different little features you can add. Basically, you just need a header, grill and fenders. Everything's a bolt off bolt on. Hope that helps.

Are you talking the whole enchilada (engine, interior, front clip, doors, etc) or just one of those?

I was figuring on doing the same thing (the ACOS) if my 4.5" RE springs in the front don't end up level with the SOA in the rear. My leafs are pretty flat, so I hope to be fine. But will toss in a pair of ACOS to level things out if need be. Keep in mind though that the ACOS lift it a minimum of 1.75" on top of whatever the coils do.

I've heard the "crate" story a bunch of times, but for the the most parts it's a myth (apparently once every couple of years someone will come across a crated WWII jeep ready to assemble). never heard the "barrel" story though.

I've used POR-15 for my floor pans. http://www.locojeeper.com/project-jeeps/stopping-floor-board-rust Over-all i'm fairly impressed with the product. However, you do need to follow the application process... trying to rush or improvise has only proven to make the product "flake" off. It's an expensive coating, but in certain areas and if you have the time its worth it.

I agree... but lets not detract from the original posters question. I am sure there are a bunch of us that could learn from techniques or other possible seat swaps for the > 6' crowd. I am especially interested if anyone has tried either the mastercraft or smittybilt seats. Any other OEM models work that sit a little lower?

Someone will probably chime in with the pic... but the punch line is the same. Some XJ's (87-90 I think) had a curved seat frame and a separate bar that allowed you to adjust the swivel or "rocking" of the seat. This extra mechanics seems to make the seat sit higher.

If you have the bench seat in now, you can just cut the existing brackets and use them to mount to XJ buckets. However, I am 6'3" and did not head the warning about the "rocking chair" or "bull riding" buckets found in some of the XJ's. It sits about 3" higher then I would like, so much so that i have to be careful how close to a traffic light I get (otherwise I can't see it). I too would be interested in any ideas (mastercraft is a thought, or what about those smittybilt ones?).

Sounds about right. On the right side if your staring under the hood.

I picked up the book titled "Differential" by Randy's Ring and Pinion. 320+ pages of very informative axle id, re-gearing, rebuilding and modification info. I've yet to do my axles, but its given me enough confidence (now I just need to find the patience) to do it myself. The only reason i'd advise you not to do it yourself is if you don't have the tools. To start out your going to need around $500 (at least) in tools. Some are basic hand tools but other's like bearing drivers and bearing pullers are pretty specific. I have 4 axles to re-gear, so its worth it. If you only have one or two it may be more cost effective to pay a shop to do it (prices do vary dramatically from shop to shop though). Good luck and God Bless, Ben

had a hard time deciding between dark blue and silver (for my own ride) but am pretty settled on silver. - best "dirty" look - least possibility to show scratches - best accent with black Just my $0.02

Did they change it from 86 to 89? Mine (both the one underneath right now and the one on the donor axle seem smaller).

your avatar looks like you have vent windows. A little bit of manipulating (or breaking) would gain you access.

What do you mean by 50/50? I downloaded their parts book. Here seems to be the breakdown in parts (if you bought everything, and bought it new) * Fender rh JPCH01A1 $65.75 * Fender lh JPCH01A2 $65.75 * Grille - black JPCH10A0 $8.95 * Headlamp Door rh - black JPCH15A1 $3.95 * Headlamp Door lh - black JPCH15A2 $3.95 * Front Panel JPCH49A0 $36.75 * Marker Lamp Assembly rh JPCH80A1 $7.95 * Marker Lamp Assembly lh JPCH80A2 $7.95 * Park/Signal Lamp Assembly rh JPCH85A1 $9.95 * Park/Signal Lamp Assembly lh JPCH85A2 $9.95 Total of $220.90 Not bad... since i've made a half dozen j/y trips and only ever found 2 97+ xj's, thought both were heavily damaged in the front end.

Good thought... I would like to say that there won't be a next time, but since the donor column came from a 5spd equipped XJ it doesn't have the shift interlock cable. So to keep it factory-like, I really should swap it again. All sorts of things crossed my mind to check, but i didn't think of that. My only doubting thought would be that the engine does crank after it stalls, just won't turn over. It could be that just one of the multiple connections it tries to make is failing (i.e. fuel pump) but I really wouldn't no where to start other then to swap the entire switch out. Thanks.