ctxj93

I have a 4wd AX-15 in my 89 MJ and I recently scored a 98 AX-15. Is there anything different between the two transmissions other than the slave cylinders? I thought I remember hearing I had to run a pilot or throw out bearing from a 79 CJ or something?

Sweet thanks eagle. I knew that the selector was vacuum controlled I just wasn't sure if there was something else going on in there too.

Yeah I know I have a vacuum leak. But I'm wondering if that's causing low airflow through the vents, As well as not allowing the selector to switch between

Check the bellhousing. Mine is currently soaked

I've been having some issues with the heat in my MJ. It seems like I'm getting very little air out of all the vents even on high. My defrost vents blow like crazy on cold but don't flow nearly as well on hot. I jammed my arm up behind the heater box and can feel that there is a decent amount of air coming out back there even on the defrost setting. Is this supposed to happen? I can't tell if there is a vent back there or not. I also have a substantial vacuum leak on my intake. I am able to switch between air settings still but it usually reverts back to defrost eventually when driving. Is there a vacuum controlled blend door that might not be opening all the way and in turn causing poor airflow?

Slow progress on this thing. Still collecting parts. I scored an AX15 with an external slave bellhousing and put together my JCR bumper. I'm pretty happy with the finished product.

I bought the JCR one, currently screwing around grinding/sandblasting it. It is pretty freakin pimp though.

There's a seal for the fuel sender on the tank that gets kind of crusty and can leak. Also there's a little seal for a fuel line that runs into the sender plate that can spring leaks too (at least in my case). Both are easy fixes.

x2 whatever you choose, definitely don't get it on your hootus.

For future information this is a sweet fix. I'm 99% sure it fixed my leak, but we got 3 inches of rain today so everything is a little wet under there. The parts number for that help kit is still the same, and the process works great. As long as your sender ring isn't seized on there super tight you can do this in well under an hour. It's easiest if you drop your e brake cable bracket.

damn you're the man! Thanks a lot that will make things easier

gotcha, cool deal. Any idea what size push nut to use?

88whitemanche, You replaced the O ring and it fixed the issue? Does the o ring go on the inside sandwiched between the push nut and the sender cap OR on the outside of the cap OR on the outside of the push nut? It's kinda hard to tell from the pictures there.

So today I filled up the MJ and noticed when I got home that it was leaking pretty good out of the sending unit cap. However, It's not leaking from around the sender or from where the steel lines go into it. My sender has this little plastic plug looking thing in addition to the steel lines and if I wiggle it around it will leak. Any idea what this thing is for? I'll grab some pictures tomorrow because I'm sure my description isn't very clear. I don't usually fill my tank all the way, so this is the first time I've noticed it. Edit: I'm an idiot. I'm sure thats the connector to send power to the pump. It seems like it's leaking around it, weird, I'll have to take a closer look under there when my exhaust isn't 10,000 degrees.

You guys are crazy. No grill no headlights and no paint is where it's at!

I get poison Ivy once a year. I usually get it in April, and it goes away by about December.

So I'm almost ready to swap all my parts onto the MJ but I'm wondering what to do about an SYE. Do you generally need one on an swb MJ when going SOA with the front lifted to match? I have a 231 case already SYE'd but I'm wondering if I can get away without using it. Either way I'd like to know before I weld my spring perches on. I also scored a nice front end and two mint manual doors for $150

I don't know if anyone cares, but I fixed the problem today by accident. I changed my clutch MC which was leaking into my fuse panel. So after I blasted myself in the eyes with the contact cleaner, I proceded to pull all the fuses and clean the hell out of the panel. With some fresh fuses and a clean fuse-block, my gauge came back to life!

Do you think that a spring and pin kit would make it work like it's supposed to again?

I would go with 15x8 on the wheels and a 4 inch backspacing. I've run them on several XJ with 3 inches of lift and 33/12.5's but I've always chopped my fenders also. Like Alexia said though I would probably at least cut the lower part of the front fender to give yourself a little room. With proper bumpstops you can keep them out of the fenders when flexing, and if I'm not mistaken you can adjust your steering stops to keep the tires out of your fenders on tight turns if need be.

DOH! I did actually. Seemed like a good idea at the time haha But I tried grounding the wire to the block, as well as unplugging it and noticed no change in the gauge reading.

I usually like to repsond with, "I'd sooner pile it up and burn it in the driveway than sell it to you for $80. "

Alrighty I don't really understand why it would burn out the gauge but it's a possibility. And yes if I the senders that I have are correct then the idiot light sender is slotted and the gauge one is not.

I swapped the cluster in my 88 MJ with one from my old 90 XJ. I replaced the Oil Pressure sensor with the one for a gauge a while back but never got around to the temp sender. I swapped it today with napa part # TS6053 which is supposed to be the sender for a gauge as well. However, the temp gauge just stays pegged like it did when the sender for the idiot light was there. When I unplug the sender it still stays all the way on the right side of the gauge. When the truck is shut off the gauge moves back towards the cooler side slightly but not much. Any ideas as to what might be wrong? The cluster worked fine in my my XJ. The only thing I noticed was when I was running the idiot light sender, if the truck was really cold the temp gauge would bounce around for the first couple minutes of driving before going to its pinned position.

Very cool. My buddy out in Leominster has one that he been rebuilding for a few years. He also gets to cruise around in nice ones all the time AND gets paid for it! (MA Forest Fire Control) I'm dealing with some similar issues as far as wheels and tires go. I have an M725 that also has the split rims and a crazy bolt pattern. Luckily a mechanic I worked for, who happens to own an M37, has dealt with split wheels in the past and will help me out when it comes time. Also Marsh Racing will custom make wheels to fit that bolt pattern. I looked into it, it isn't cheap but the final product is pretty sweet looking.