ctxj93

I found Bosch's scale too slowly. Mine worked on first fire up but then stopped shortly after. I put in an NTK and its been fine since.

Currently I have an 8.25 out back with brand new drum brakes. It'll be a long time before I convert to discs. I already have the JCR bumper counterweight back there too. Just want to keep things simple and safe. I'm very used to driving XJs and MJs with tires that are entirely too large, and brakes that are entirely too weak.

Gotcha. Thank you for the info, much appreciated!

Thanks Pete! I was just planning on running a single inlet/outlet prop valve for the rear brakes and letting the fronts have full pressure with using a tee. Unless there's a reason not to? I had found guys in previous threads using the first valve I linked to. I wasn't sure if there was a purpose to using the 1/8 npt fittings instead of the 3/8×24. I'm going to run that line right back to the hose for the rear brakes which I understand is also 3/8×24.

Not sure if this is the right spot, but Ididn't think it warranted a new post. When deleting the distribution block and load sensing valve and also going to the 96 master cyl/booster, which is the correct wilwood prop valve to use? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-8419 Or https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-10922?rrec=true

I ran a double shear rock krawler one on a previous XJ, it worked well. My MJ has all Clayton parts up front including the trackbar. Super beefy, giant joints, nice flag bolt. I would recommend it.

Wouldn't be anywhere near $3k to pull the head, send it out to get pressure tested/decked if you have the ability to do the work. If you wanted to get crazy, you could have them look the valves over while it was at the machine shop too. I got rid of an XJ when I was younger because it needed a headgasket and I've been kicking myself ever since.

Oh that trans is toast my friend. The high whining you heard was probably the pump's dying breath

Put in a set of NGK 7373's today, seems to run pretty good. I took it for about a 10 min ride around the neighborhood, I have no plates or tail lights currently so I'm limited to a couple mile loop. When I got back I plugged in the brick and it was stuck in open loop, o2 sitting at 1v and exhaust reading rich. My NTK sensor had shown up so I put that one in and like everyone has said, it seems to work fine. Went out again for a similar hot lap with the scanner plugged in and everything seems to be functioning correctly. LT fuel trim dropped to 125 after driving it for a bit too. So the moral of the story is don't be an impatient idiot like me. If the guy at Napa offers you the Bosch he has in stock, politely decline. Order the NTK off Rockauto and wait the few extra days.

Where in CT are ya? I would agree, the 96 dual diaphragm booster and master cyl set up should be plenty, especially if you were to disk swap the rear.

Oh I'll always keep wrenching on these things. Defintiely an addiction! I just meant should I be happy with the current cold start crank time or keep trying to make it shorter still.

Thank you again for your help along the way. I guess I need to let it run longer and drive it to see if the LT fuel trim changes. I know you said 3-5 sec would be considered a quick start time. Should I stop trying to improve it at this point?

Ok I promise this is the last time I'll be responding to my own response. Swapped in a Bosch 12009 o2 sensor which showed 4.2 ohms out of the package. It did look different than what came out of it. The truck started right up, same as this morning and to my surprise went into closed loop and stayed there. I have an NTK 23553 on the way in case I have any issues down the road with the current sensor. Here's a video of the data stream, let me know what you think. I'm also interested in any comments on my last start time video. I counted 4 or 5 seconds of crank time. And for good measure, here's a pic from the fall of how it currently sits.

Ok so after a new Group 34 battery. Jeepcables kit and 746 injectors this is the crank time. Cruiser, this should be an apples to apples comparison to my last video. I let it sit overnight, it was around 26 degrees this morning and this was a single key cycle.

Defintiely very similar to what he's dealing with now, not so much in the beginning of the thread. Mine ran/runs fine in open loop. No stalling no backfires. I've dealt with bad renix EGRs before I know how annoying that can be to try to drive. Edit: I see that an o2 sensor that tests in range is tough to come by. I guess I'll see if I can get the old one off my parts truck

Yes I noticed that. You would think with the 2 other values both showing increases and the rpm dropping a little, that something is actually happening with the fueling. I installed a fresh set of reman 746 injectors, (it acted the same way before the swap) and also a full Jeepcables 2 ga kit over the weekend. I'll put an o2 in it tomorrow and see if anything changes.

Gotcha thank you. My leads arent long enough and I'm not fast enough to turn the key and combat roll under the long arms in under 3 seconds!

Supplies 12v running? or key on truck off?

So I went out and checked the truck side of the o2 harness. I followed this procedure which I think is an old referenced Cruiser post. "BUT before you blame the O2 sensor make sure it has good wiring, and make sure the proper voltage is feeding it, by turning power on, engine off to read the engine off voltage feeds (12-14 volts on the orange wire, and 5 volts on one of the two black wires), and ensure the ground wire (power off) reads less than 1 ohm to the battery negative post." I found that I do not have 12v at pin A (orange wire) with key on engine off, I do have 5v reference at terminal C, again with Key on and engine off. with the engine running I have battery voltage at pin A and 5v at pin C. does this indicate a bad relay, or possibly an issue with the wiring?

Thanks guys, I tested it with a Meter and got like 4.5 ohms A to C and the voltage B-C matches the scanner read out. Here's a short video of it in real time. It attempts to go into closed loop, ST Inj goes up to 255 and goes back into open.

Probably 5-10 ish minutes. Enough time to get up to operating temp and then some. I found the o2 testing procedure, I'm goin to go lay in the snow in a bit and take some readings. The voltage moved around a little but certainly wasnt ranging all over the place quickly.

So I got the old brick out today for a trial run. I've attached some pictures of the data stream. Does anything jump out at you guys? -stays in open loop -exhaust reads lean the whole time -inj stayed just above 5 -O2 sensor hovered around 2.3 when warm, -MAPvac around 60 -spark advance around 15-16 -fuel sync- the little + sign just flickered, not sure what that's supposed to do -LT/ST fuel trim stayed at 128

Check the weather tight connector to the pump. I chased my tail on a fuel pump last year. I checked at the connector it had power. Figured the pump was bad Swapped a known good pump, still wouldn't work. It turned out one of the pins had had loosened up in the connector just enough to lose contact now and then.

It was around 30 the other days. We are indeed comparing apples to oranges, I just had to give it a try! I will see if the starter is covered in oil. Another thing I've noticed is that I defintiely don't hear the 3 sec fuel pump prime every time I cycle the key. I also don't get the buzzer every time I cycle the key. Sometimes I get both 5 or 6 cycles in a row, and then the next time, maybe a weak buzzer without the prime, or just nothing at all. Even if I don't hear the pump prime, usually it will still start. The other day when I recorded the cranking video, and the next day I when I was out there again, I heard the pump prime both times. Does this sound like an ignition switch issue?

Ah, I was following the LungHD test procedure for the sync sensor. He says you should get 5v across those 2 wires. I figured it was a reference voltage?