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Dedaw

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Everything posted by Dedaw

  1. guilty :thumbsup: Small world! I'm @weldakota :cheers:
  2. Dedaw

    Technology

    What in the hell....
  3. Used to work at a movie theater.... in the ghetto (but it has the nicest seats in WA- recliner lazy boy love seats :thumbsup: ). Talk about hell. With the new seats, it cut the seating capacity by at least 1/3 in every theater. And since it has the nicest seats around, EVERYBODY wants to watch a movie there. Movies would sell out for the day by 7 AM. Can't count how many times I got cussed at because people showed up late and A) the movie was sold out B) they were in a hurry and I was taking too long C) they couldn't find seats together or some combination of the above. My favorite question I ever got there. Guy shows up late, and his wife can't sit next to him. So he comes up to me working concessions, and asks ME to go get another one of the giant love seats and put it in the theater so his wife could sit next. I just gave him a blank stare. :doh: :rotf:
  4. NAPA finally pulled through for me. Piston will be in tomorrow. Thank you!
  5. Don't hurt yourself just for me. ;) If I can't find it elsewhere, I will certainly let you know.
  6. Hey guys, hopefully you guys can save me from waiting to get a piston shipped here since they're special order. Does anybody have ONE piston for a 4.0? Last piston to go back in has a broken skirt and it's killing me. Located in Puyallup, but willing to drive a ways.
  7. Never thought that an entirely bedlinered truck could look good. But, you proved the impossible. Might be easier to do that spray can the whole thing. I'll have to give it a shot. :thumbsup:
  8. Dedaw

    Dallas Cowgirls

    Seahawks :bowdown:
  9. Post a good high watt bulb........I've blown out a couple sets already. 55/65 blues work well.....but then I have other lights too that fill in the shadows.........so........ Sounds like Hella or PIAA high-wattage are the go-to.
  10. I have researched this quite a bit, but have yet to get the funds to make the upgrade. So, take my opinion with a very large grain of salt. :) From what I've found, e-code is absolutely the way to go. Granted, it's not DOT-approved, but neither are HID swaps, and e-codes are MUCH safer for other drivers if done right. The cut-off, light pattern, and clarity appear to be bar-none. As far as housings, Hellas seem to be the go-to for everybody. After researching Cibie, they seem to be THE top of the line, that hides behind the scenes for true lighting enthusiasts to pick up. So, I would go with: e-codes, Cibie or Hella (that order), and HIGH wattage (80wL/100wH) bulbs.
  11. Merry Christmas to you and yours!
  12. Success!! Bottle jack between axle and frame rail did the trick
  13. it should drop considerably with the shocks and sway bar disconnected. You may need to unhook the track bar at the axle end. I'll give that a shot. What about disconnecting the springs? Seems a little excessive, though.
  14. Been at this for a good 2 hours now. Got the shocks disconnected and the sway bar unbolted, and that gained me about an inch. :hmm: What else??
  15. Life's been hectic, and been taking my time doing things RIGHT and in my typical OCD manner as I don't have to get this on the road right away. Anyways, I forgot that when me and my buddy did the oil pan gasket, the transmission was already out. :rotf: So, I'm going to be dropping the axle to get it out, unless somebody has a better idea that I see in time. :thumbsup:
  16. Sorry to hear, man. Try to remind myself to always leave loved ones on a good note.
  17. @Key- Going one cylinder at a time and putting rags over the crank tends to do the trick. :) @Oya- Economy is key here. Want to at least get the truck running well and get rid of the blowby (rings are bad, already tested them, and tried other methods of clearing blowby first). Sad to see it sit for the last 2 months that I've been in school and too busy to fix her. If the mains are bad or something else major comes up, then it will likely be a full stroker build at that point. Anybody recommend some free/cheap mods to do while I'm tearing her apart. Like to clear up some engine bay room. Only mod I've done as of yet is the valve cover mod cruiser wrote up. :thumbsup: Me and the little sis are tearing into her today. Awesome to share a little knowledge/jeep love with her!
  18. Went and ordered the parts to do a re-ring today. Was wondering if anybody has done this with the engine still in the truck? Hoping I don't have to go borrow a picker and a stand.
  19. I plan on owning multiple pairs of helmets, in the end. I have heard nothing but good things about Speedglas, and they ARE really comfortable. I also would love a Save Phace once I get into TIG so the badass design doesn't get ruined. However, I have heard nothing about them, nor been able to try one on. You ended up going with the miller, yes?
  20. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/shop-tools/872880-hypertherm-weldersource-com.html Only one review, but seems pretty legit. Thanks for turning me onto this. :thumbsup: Looking to retire my miller in the near future and move up to the Speedglas.
  21. Goddamn!
  22. Replaced oil sending unit yesterday, still puking like crazy. Have already replaced rear main and oil pan gasket (less than 2 months ago), valve cover (about 6 months ago) and did the valve cover mod while I was it. Rehooked up the front crankcase hose the other day as well. Left are the oil filter adapter and distributor gasket. I popped up the distributor cap and saw no traces whatsoever of oil under there, don't know if that matters or not. Looking at the underside of the adapter, it does not seem to have enough oil around it to be the cause. What are the odds the head gasket is puking out oil? I don't want to replace that if I'm going to have to R&R the engine anyways. I changed the oil last Tuesday, and was down to about 1-2qts (pinky width or less on the dipstick) this morning when I checked it; that's including one day of not driving it. So roughly 3/4 qt a day. As far as oil pressure, it bounces between 0 and all the way over to the right (WAY past max)- think I have a bad ground in my cluster that I need to address. Think I answered every question I saw on here.
  23. I replaced both hoses and grommets when I did the valve cover mod. I will do the oil filter adapter and reattach the hose tomorrow, although there is oil ABOVE the adapter as well. So it might be part of the problem, but I don't think it's all of it; especially with compression readings that low. Will be testing with a Snap-On tomorrow to confirm the readings. As far as cleaning the engine up, I've wiped it with rags, and sprayed purple power (nasty degreaser if you're not familiar) and it doesn't do much. That oil is literally burned on there. Besides yanking the motor and having it heat treated, what else is there?
  24. Fall has rolled around, which means it's time to roll up the windows and fix the burning oil that I've managed to avoid all summer (as it's gotten increasingly worse). My truck has been leaking oil for a while, and I've done different repairs, slowly, trying to stop the seepage. Fixed the valve cover and did Cruiser's valve cover mod, fixed the rear main and oil pan gasket (all with the help of my mechanic friend and Jeep enthusiast). As you can see in the pictures below, the engine is leaking BADLY, and burning off on the crosspipe, which smokes so bad that at a stoplight people look around trying to figure out who's on fire (and half of that is in the cab!). Mechanic buddies think that it's the head gasket, and I agree. However, wanted to cross reference with you guys and see if anybody else has opinions that might save me a lot of time and money. Side note: Blew the clutch slave last weekend, and my buddy checked the rear main when the tranny was out and said that it wasn't leaking from there or the valve cover. EDIT: Did a compression test with a cheap @$$ Harbor Freight tester. I know they're not the best, but it's better than shooting blind. 5x crank, in order from 1-6: 120; 120; 85; 115; 100; 85 3x crank, in order from 1-6: 90; 110; 95; 120; 90; 70 Valve cover is covered in oil from blowby (CCV was hooked into the cold air intake, but hose is currently off) but does not seem to be enough to cause the amount of oil as seen below. Not the best picture, but you can see that there is oil ABOVE the oil sending unit, leading me to believe that it is not the culprit. The puddle. The oil on the crosspipe, AFTER putting a heat wrap around it, hoping that might help with the burning problem. :wall: Please, help stop the burning in my throat! :) EDIT: Therorizing that head gasket is bad, causing the leak and building pressure in the crankcase which is thus causing blowby. :hmm:
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