over2land

Conrats on the Corp. Pick an MOS yet?... or rather tell them the one you want to try to get? Doing boot in PI or SD? For an 87, its gonna be the peugot, unless it was swapped before you got it. Look at the pictures I put here: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6656 And you should be able to ID yours from that.

What year? does it have the C101 connector on the firewall? That dang thing is notorious for bad connections.

Sounds like a lot of body... What are you doing behind the front seats? No glove box at all? Not even a custom job that opened where the right hand side instrument cluster would be? I put a new dash in one of my YJs with no glove box and it drives me nuts not having that storage anymore. I'm having problems visualizing two transmission shifters too. I really like the idea of moving the heater controls down. I'd love to put either a dual din nav-style head unit or a CB and single DIN unit in the dash. What about depth of the CB though? The full size chassis Cobra I'd wanna use would run into all kinds of HVAC things back in the dash. I like the idea ditching the trim and going with tight to the pillar tube for the cage and wrapping it. I like the idea, but wonder how it'd look. I liked the idea of a crew cab comanche too. Then I saw one. Of course if the one I saw was lifted, I'm sure I would've liked it better. Did you photochop it yet?

Well, the tranny is in the truck now.... But I could sure try.

look at the pics I put here: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6656 I've got pictures of a Peugot and an AX-15 on the ground next to each other. The Peugot is the smaller of the two and the case is bolted together with a left and right side like a clamshell almost.

Great diagram. So then the short bed would be 72 inches instead of 88, right?

Routing the intake to the highest, rearmost part of the engine compartment at the fire wall has worked well for me in the past.

Ya know, I'm just not sure if they are the same depth or not. I actually went into it thinking I was replacing one pukegoat for another... I thought the AX15 stuff and the pukegoat stuff was interchangable too... ah well. I'm not sure I wanna hassle with that all again just right now anyway. I'll let it sit for a bit maybe.

Did you already put the 4WD body side bracket in the truck? I've yet to do it, but it looks to me like the interior will need to come out, or at least the driver's side stuff, to get under the carpet and drill the 4-holes and put the bolts in.

Last one I made was back in '02, and the ABS was like double the cost of PVC... By the time I was done, I swore to myself, never again... too much money and still booty-fabulicious. Then when it cracked I started trying to come up with another way. I think if I ever do it again, I'm going to an exhaust shop and having them bend me up a piece of pipe to fit the contour of the Jeep. Put the ARB snorkle head on it, or one of those fancy outback-style precleaners to top it off, soak the thing in semi-gloss rustoleum (using a rag and rope to get inside- to fend off possible rust) and feed that into the engine compartment with like a sheet metal fabbed box. I'd make the box contoured on the front so trees and stuff have a ramp to ride up. I think it would cost the same, or less to do it with metal than doing it with ABS plastic. At least, that's what I thought 5 years ago. No idea on prices now. No welder? No problem. Use rivets and silicone.

Yeppers... bolted in with some cancerous sealant, so you know its good. LOL.

Is yours an 89? If it is, your color is Dark Vivid Red Metallic Clearcoat. Look here for the code: http://www.paintscratch.com/cgi-bin/makepaint2.cgi On my 89... I think the code is PE8, as found on the tag on the firewall in the engine compartment on the driver's side. If you do have an 89, could you put up a pic of the outside of it, and of the door sill? Mine looks nothing like the "chip" on that site, and I've won a bid on a 44 page color Jeep sales catalog, but have yet to see it. Mine is really brown... not red. Both outside and in the door sills. But then, its been a SoCal truck its whole life, with a lot of sun exposure.

Here's pics. They won't help you diagnose the issue... But I thought it was a really good look just how puny the Peugot is. First time I've seen em side by side like this.

I used to do pond running... Like water to armpits Jeepin... I worried about that stuff collapsing like the garden hose we all tried long ago in the deep end of the pool. If you aren't going that deep, but more the occasional splash, sure, why not?

Ok, so I'm not right in the head. I admit it. I've got an NSG370 waiting to go into my '89 MJ. However, its at a buddy's place right now, and I wanted to be able to drive it away. I need to pay registration and then smog it. The issue arrises in that the trans that was in it was missing 2nd gear, and the throwout bearing squealed like a stuck pig when on the clutch. So, I happpened to have the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, transmission, with throwout bearing still attached. All worked when pulled from my 88. Lower mileage than the 89. Problem is, Pukgoat! Anyway, I really needed the 89 running and driving for smog, and I figured the Pukegoat would get me through it. I was suprised to find the AX15 in the truck, honestly, but I went ahead with the swap anyway. Left the AX-15 clutch and pressure plate, as they looked less used than my well beat on stuff from the 88. Threw the pukegoat in, and 7 hours later, had fixed a few DAPO items found along the way and I was good to go. Clutch bled... truck no go. What gives is there an incompatability between the AX15 pressure plate and the puke's throwout bearing? It acts like its in neutral all the time now. I'll put up pics in a bit.

i've done PVC, and first whack witha tree branch cracked it. Then did ABS, heated it and bent it. Over time, where I heated it cracked, but I think mainly due to whacking tree branches into it. I dunno... The ABS took some pretty hard hits, and only cracked where I heated it to conform to the contour of the body into the a-pillar. If you don't care about the looks, just use elbows to get close, and I think you'll be happy with ABS. Had it on that Jeep for 3 years... never noticed any sun issues...

That is awesome. I just noticed that myself. Came here and did a search... found this thread. How does one get a job with the firm that provides vehicles to hollyweird for films, and yet still knows not to burn an MJ? That there is an outfit with its priorities in line. That is the job I want.

I have the 6-speed and I've got a 2WD peugot trans on the ground next to each other. Just measured the center line of the stick stub (what the actual stick attaches to) and its right around 19 1/4 inches from the edge of the bellhousing to the center of the stub. So, from that perspective, that looks good. Advance adapter has a stainless braided clutch line that will allow me to adapt the MJ master to the '06 external slave. The clutch parts look to be the same parts (looking at PNs) Right now I'm looking at ways to get the Renix CPS into the 6-speed. They changed the location of the CPS from about 10 o'clock to about 2 o'clock when looking at the back of the motor. Again, Advance has a kit to relocate the later HO Crank sensor, but says it won't work with the Renix due to harmonic balancer differences and CPS differences. I'm looking at just cutting a hole in the bellhousing of the new trans in the correct location for the CPS. Then, using it with a Rubicon tcase, there arises the speedometer issue. I've got a '91 full cluster sitting here, and I'm trying to figure out how to use the electronic sender in the tcase to drive the speedo. Of course, if I succeed in that, then there is the issue of the oil, water, and fuel gauges reading wrong. I've found what is basically an electronic motor that will drive the speedometer, but I just don't know that it is the best way to go. Of course, autometer gauges or the like are an option too, but I'm aiming to keep it looking stock. Besides, banging my head into the wall trying to figure it out is cheap.

On brakes, Vanco has a big brake kit out that I've been eyeing. It is kinda pricy, but maybe not a ton more than the WJ stuff by the time you done buying everything. Didn't the WJ have isssues with warped rotors? Anyway: http://www.vancopbs.com/product_p/dkj1000.htm And, depending on rear axle, TSM has some nice kits for decent prices. http://www.tsmmfg.com/Rear_Disc_Brake_Kits.htm I've put on the one for a 9-inch before and the install went well.

And 2400 is right where I like to be for 70-75 mph, not 50. Regardless, I was throwing that out there not as chapter and verse, but just to think about it. There was talk of lowering, which normally brings smaller tires, which will increase the RPM. Really, we can all do the math, but without tire size, and transmission choice nailed down, its kinda pointless. I agree it'd launch wicked hard. But, I drive a lot of freeway. My 715 has 5.87s and 38's. Comfortable cruising speed in that truck is 55. Here, 55 will get you run off the road by even big rigs, whose legal limit IS 55. Anyway, I don't use the 715 much except for around town as a result. I couldn't imagine building a Comanche that would give me the same limitation that the 715. The Comanche is such a nice truck to drive comparatively I wouldn't want to ruin it by needing to run the thing at like 4,000 RPM (again, just WAG) just to maintain speed on the highway. That's why I asked what he was going to be doing with the truck. If highway trips weren't in the plans, and it was just going to be a canyon carver, the highway cruising didn't matter and you could gear the snot outta it and have a ton of fun.

Having put dynamat in my 715, and just yanked the carpet and crap out of the MJ, I'd say straight across that the dynamat is heavier than the stock stuff... that is, if you are planning on putting it everywhere the stock stuff was. There is also a lot of weight in the dash and HVAC. Ditch the whole bed and get some fiberglass bedsides. Replace glass with lexan, or just lose the glass. Basically build a Jeepspeed MJ lowered to run on the street. FWIW, 4.56s and smaller than stock tires will make for like a 50mph top speed. Why not a 9-inch with aluminum center and lightened gears? Why LWB instead of SWB? . What is your goal for the truck? I guess I should have asked that first.

Did you paint the inner door panel? If you painted it what did you use?

Anyone put a hard tonneau on their truck? What model do you need to look at for a good fit? I found a hard tonneau in the junkyard, but it didn't quite fit the Comanche that was there, and they wanted 150 bucks for it. I wasn't about to pay 150 bucks for something I'd have to modify. Plus, I've got no fiberglass experiance at all. I'd like to just go buy one, but I've looked online and can't find a single listing for a Comanche tonneau cover. Thanks

A couple few years ago I heard a lot about it with the 2.5s.... But then nothing for like the last 5 years or so. I just figured people who'd done it weren't that impressed or whatever.

Why were you looking at the inertia ring anyway?+ Does seem kinda steep for a piece of steel...