cherokee

ACC Part # 116389CUTPILEMB is what I'm looking at. Just wondering if it's a decent replacement.

It's close to a 45 degree angle, but I don't think it's quite there... So the cup can come loose from the plate it seems to be attached to?

I've put a non-original tailgate in my MJ and am having trouble adjusting it. The right side seems to sit lower than it should. I tried loosening the lower rider on the bed but there doesn't seem to be enough upward travel to it. The depth of the tailgate is pretty good, just the height on the right side is off. So is there a height adjustment? Did I loosen the wrong thing?

I'm using ZJ hardware on a MJ d44 and have to agree with $500 MJ. Also, you should be aware that ZJ dust shields are no longer in production. Those were all I lacked and I had to resort to creating my own dust shield. The TJ backing plates can be had from the dealer with the entire parking brake assembly and dust shield already in one piece. About $120 a side though, not including calipers, pads, etc, etc. Oh, and the dealer would not separate the dust shield in spite of it being held to the new style backing plate by only one rivet.

Not really, the new windows use two bolts to hold them, the old style are a single bolt. The front track is what needs cutting for removal and placement also.

RobS, it's not quite as simple as that. I did test mount one new door before tearing them apart. One bodyline didn't quite line up, and the latch thing isn't quite as simple as it seems. They're offset by about an inch, so the rods would have to be changed. I wasn't interested in fixing those problems. I'll probably only use the passenger 'silver' door, the driver side's retaining latch was busted out. beaterjeep, the mirrors are from a new style set of doors. They fit correctly, the bolt pattern is exactly the same. There's a difference on the side facing the window though, the trim pieces overlap if you try to mix the different generations. Tank4L, yeah, they're layered. I'll probably recover them once I'm done priming.

it was interesting, and still not complete. I've had spacers machined to get the tracks and regulator assembly at the correct depth. You also need to remove the one clip and the support beneath the vent window. You need to cut out and unbolt the front track from a new door, and it will require more work to get it to fit correctly. The old 'short' front track interferes with the new one, part of the reason the trim doesn't line up correctly. Lots of parts are slightly different. For example the cushion for the rear track is one piece from bottom to vent window on the old ones, while for the new style it's a seperate piece inside the door, and then from the sill all the way around to the front and down. Right now I need to get the rear track cushion figured out, grind the front track to fit better, deal with possible interference from the regulator spacer, determine what interior trim has to be used, and figure out how it will need to be wired. And por15, prime, and paint somewhere in there too. I never thought about lower cab vents... Not sure how'd you get access to the back anyways unless it's a pretty small vent. This keeps reminding me of older trucks with the same large space on the back corner of the cab.

Figured I'd post a few of the 'odd' pics from my MJ project. Nothings really done yet but progress is on-going. First, the custom door test assembling. It's the MJ's original door, the missing piece I used as a bed panel patch. No, that's not the original window, mirror, or handle. :brows: Next... Cab de-ventilating. :D Doesn't look the best yet but it checks even against the untouched parts of the panel.

So there's no reason to worry about breaking the actual hinge off?

It looks like it's just a little roll pin, but I haven't managed to get one out yet to replace it. Anyone else replaced any?

Are there any dual piston calipers that bolt in place of the standard d30 caliper? I think one of the kits earlier in this thread had them, but it was both pricy and required modification.

There are some ford coils that are virtually the same as stock xj coils with a similar spring rate and shorter length. I haven't actually tested this out yet so it's still sort of theory based. What are the advantages of the WJ brake/knuckle assembly?

Plastic tank vs. metal tank. Completely different. Retrofit the plastic tank to fit between the frame rails, it may be easier.

Well, there's a little nuclear waste cleanup facility there. The name fits. Anyways, back on topic... Anyone else have an opinion?

So I recently patched a hole in the bedside of my 88. While I had the wheelwell open I noticed how dirt gathers in the top of the pinch seam where there's no drainhole. The only thing like a drainhole I noticed was about 3" farther up the wheelwell. I'm thinking of drilling 2 or 3 small holes the size of a small rubber body plug/cap just inside of the pinch seam to serve as drain holes. Any opinions?

Probably a very stupid question, but I haven't owned or dealt with any Renix era 242 equipped Jeeps. I know all 242s are non-disconnect axles, and it's been said that the cable assembly swaps over. Are there any differences in the speedo assembly (cable drive, long gear, etc.) between a Renix era 231 and 242? What about a Renix era 242 and external slip yoke era 242? Just the tailhousing of the case gets swapped and that covers those differences?

A floorpan done with por15.

I have a 98 head, but I'm not sure I want to use it due to the possible higher compression. The cable speedometer is a minus. I have a 97 242 case that will go in. So I would have to switch to another system. I forgot about the Renix era 242 still being non-vac. I don't mind OBD too much, but do not want to deal with any possible airbag issues from either era. The Renix knock sensor is a really big plus. Then it becomes a matter of whether or not I'm willing to retrofit Renix sensors and such onto a newer head and intake. Megasquirt? Interesting... Easily tuned?

I'm currently 'restoring' an 88 MJ that I intend to put a stroker in. Still haven't made up my mind on which 'era' of engine controls I want to use though. I have most of the parts to use the original Renix controls (I lack some auto specific parts) but have a non vacuum era transfer case that I want to use. I have the electronics and wiring harnesses from an OBDII era XJ, but am not in favor of dealing with potential airbag issues. I don't have any OBD1 electronics, but realize that may be a good middle ground (non vacuum front axle/tcase, no potential airbag problem). So now that the situation's been explained... I'm looking for opinions and advice on which system would make for a good daily driver stroked 4.0. As well as which head, intake, and exhaust would be best (again, I have a Renix and OBDII setup, but not an OBD1). Here's a link to a fairly recent page in the buildup (teardown?) thread of the local forum. http://www.wnyoffroad.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=723&start=75

Wow... You weren't kidding about there being a good and bad side to that one.

As Eagle said, look it up. I printed out the Gabriel book once... Took awhile to figure out close length shocks for an XJ with a lift. I'm pretty sure that the interesting thing was TJ front shocks being 1/2" shorter than stock XJ shocks. Of course, that was awhile ago, but it stood out a bit.

Definitely the second one... I'm being beaten by a child proof speedo. :oops: Thanks for the info!

I've got the dash unhooked in my project truck except for the pesky speedometer cable. Does it twist out or am I not seeing how a clip works? Or is it something else? Haynes manual says nothing, and I haven't managed to find the details in my search here. What is it I'm missing?

I used a bunch of scrap pieces of 3/16" bar stock and plate to weld up the front of a spare d30 and 8.25 axles for my XJ. Found my pics

Was the dash swap a pain or not too bad?