GrayWolf

Paint is coming soon, and I've been torn about trim. I picked up enough nice Cherokee Laredo trim at P N' P to do my SB, but haven't decided yet what I want to do. Some days I like the "clean look", then the next day I want to break it up. I guess drive it for awhile without, and if I change my mind, put the trim on.

This set was out of a 1998 Dakota, extended cab, and the seats don't flip forward. I also had a set from a 2003, standard cab, where the seat backs flipped forward, but the seats weren't as nice and I didn't like the upholstery pattern as well as these. It just means I have to slide the seats forward for access to storage. Not a big deal. Another bonus was a large pocket on the back of the passenger seat that gives easy access from the drivers seat for things you don't want out in the open.

And, one final shot, close-up!

Here's the final result!

After spending a lot of time looking at posts on 40/20/40 Dakota Seats, I decided to pick up a set to replace my bench seat. My bench seat looked like new, but wouldn't go far enough back, besides no console. Didn't want to go to buckets, because my cattle dog likes to lay across the seat with his head on my leg. I'm 6' and was a little worried about end result, since I was already feeling cramped. I also didn't want to drill holes through the floor to mount the seats. So, decided to build a mount that would use original mounting points and mount the seat further back. The end result was incredible. I sit a little higher, which I like and it gave me a lot more legroom. I hope these images will help anyone else looking at the same idea. Also didn't plan it that way, but everything worked out perfectly for my gun safe to sit down between the door-sill and the new mount.

Cut the bottom center out of the fan shroud and it is much easier to get to the fan and other things. Does not seem to effect the cooling at all. Had the cooling system back flushed and refilled and that really had no obvious effect, but always a good thing. Down side is that the person doing the back flush had never seen a closed system. Came back and found my windshield wiper bottle full of antifreeze. When will I learn to do simple things like this, myself!!

I've been looking for a tilt/AW4 column shift for my '90 MJ and haven't found one yet. I've gotten used to it, but since I installed my Dakota seats the space below the steering wheel is slightly tight, and the temp gauge is hidden by the top-left of the wheel. I would think using the entire column should be relatively easy, particularly if you went through the experience of taking it out of a donor vehicle. My problem, sometimes, is grabbing a part and not getting to it for 6-8-10 months and having to figure out how it goes back in.

Went through some of these same fixes recently, Post: "Overheating and Power Loss over 2000 ft". 27-June-2017. I won't go through all of it, but the one thing I had not added to my last post was returning to my original clutch fan, instead of one that was attached to parts from a WR. Some of the things I did might help. I'm now running cool and consistent no matter load or elevation.

Thanks for the ideas! Pulled the lower radiator hose, soft as butter, and even worse, almost worn through where it was resting on the steering box. Replaced that. As long as I was pulling things apart, I replaced the thermostat. Whatever the problem was, it's fixed, running substantially cooler all the time, and no overheating on hills. Seems to be fixed. Also, has anyone cut the bottom out of the fan shroud? It is a royal pain having to work behind the shroud to unbolt the fan, and pull both out together.

All good suggestions!! I've replaced all the hoses, but the lower hose, will do that this weekend. Thermostat is relatively new, but not expensive, I'll probably replace that also as long as I'm at it. Called a couple of parts stores no one has hoses with the spring. I remember them being as gray as I am. Can you buy the spring separately or do they come with a certain hose? Also, when I go to the open system, can anyone recommend a particular upgrade radiator? A step at a time!!

Electric auxilary fan seems to be working fine. I did just replace the air-conditioning/fan mount, after the fan shaft started to work it's way forward. When I did that I got one at a WR and a clutch fan was already on it. I did not take it off and replace it with my original clutch fan. You've got me thinking that maybe the clutch fan that I put back in there is not working as well as it should? I'm going to do some trial and error to see what works. I have an aluminum expansion tank and I also replaced the radiator cap. I have an appointment for next Wednesday to have the system backflushed and refilled with coolant. I'm going to keep working on it while I'm looking for a 92+ header and order a high end radiator. Anyone have suggestions on radiators. Last one I bought was for my YJ over 8 years ago.

Thanks, this is my first Renix Jeep and in the past one of my go-to fixes for ignition or fuel problems was an ECM reset. Like I said, top of my list of priorities is to replace the closed system.

1990, with basically stock 4.0. Recently upgraded to Volvo 4 hole injectors. Runs great, better gas mileage. Most of my driving is sea level to 1000 feet. Went to Eastern Washington and crossed one pass at 5400 ft and into a back-country lake at 2200+ feet. On both I noticed a definite loss of power and overheating. The route into the lake was only 2200 to 4000 feet, but was done slowly on a rough, rocky road. The initial 1000 feet was very steep and overheated to boiling over. The pass was highway speeds, 60 mph, and overheated, but not to the red-line. Dropped off as soon as I started downhill and dropped rpm. I noticed a definite lack of power each time. I reset the ECM after adding the new injectors, and it's been running great, but wonder if I could be running lean, particularly at altitude. Reset ECM again, other suggestions??? Next step will be upgrading to a open (real radiator and cooling) system.

Recently installed a 3" lift, all done right, extended sway bar links, new control arms, adjustable track bar, alignment, etc..... Drove great for about a week and suddenly started a low groan on turning and a clunk on occasion, and every now and then a slight wobble. Then took a sweeping left turn on an off ramp and in the middle hit a pot hole. Thought the tires had instantly turned into squares instead of circles. Pulled over and stopped, Nothing obvious. Drove home, no problem. Started looking for the noises and eventually found the Track Bar bolt at the axle had loosened up. Tightened and LocTite. Sound gone, and took the same ramp today, no more problems.

Yesterday, I decided to see if I could find a seat. Went to a local salvage yard, first one. I asked about '97 to '04 Dakota's, and they pointed out the window at a white Dakota and told me it is going to be crushed next Tuesday. Walked out, looked inside. Absolutely immaculate 40/20/40 seat. Dark gray, matches my interior. Not a rip, tear, stain or wear spot. $80, and I'll be pulling it out on Sunday. Still working on suspension, so it gets put away for a couple of months until I can work up some mounts. This has been a good week anyway. Completely rebuilt the front suspension with 3" lift. I mean really rebuilt. Everything but ball joints, which were in good shape. Local spring shop was going to build new rear leaf springs, but I remembered a past project, '55 Ford Pick-up on '84 Wagoneer (Frame dimensions are identical). Wanted stock '55 Ford ride height and wasn't sure what I needed. Bought a set of 3" springs (for $75) at a swap meet, which eventually weren't needed for the '55. Dug through some stuff and found the rear springs, with the labels still on them. Bolting them in this Sunday. Both the Dakota Seats and the Wagoneer springs were tricks I learned on this forum. Great bunch of people with Great ideas! Thanks to everyone.

Go to a wrecking yard and go over several MJ's and Cherokees and pick up the little bits and pieces in good condition. They usually don't cost much total, but can be invaluable when you need them. A lot of those little pieces are not available new any more, or aren't easy to find. Example is the 10" speedo cable that runs from the cruise control module to the speedometer. Went to my parts box and there it was!!

Had the same problem last year. Went to an old guy, even older than me, who has had an auto electric business since Thomas Edison. First thing he asked me was where the starter is located. I looked at him, wondering what he was up to, and told him. He then asked if I knew what was right above it, and I told him it was the oil filter. He then finally explained that when people still had their starters rebuilt, he got a lot of 4.0 starters in because they ended up with oil inside the housing that eventually shorts the armature. Let it sit for awhile, the oil drains down and often it will start until next time. I put a new starter in, and it's been great ever since. Took the old one apart before I took it back for core, and sure enough it had about a tablespoon of oil in it and was generally a mess.

This is a great fix. Didn't know how badly my rear brakes were out of adjustment until I did this. Not only did it need adjustment, when I crawled underneath I found that at some time when it was up in the air, the whole mechanism slipped downward and wasn't working at all. Half hour to put things together and two trips to an empty mall parking lot and I can actually lock up my brakes if I need to. By the way, local Ace and Lowes did not have the 1/4"x28 ball joint assemblies, so I went to M6 x 1.0, at Ace, and they also had the threaded rod. Thanks!

The Laredo seats look like they sit back quite a bit. Is there any more legroom than with the bench seat???

Thanks for this info!!! With all my years in a variety of jeeps, and all the jeep people I know I have never heard about using the 97+ mirrors on the earlier Cherokees and Comanches. I was actually considering replacing my doors with 97+ doors just to get the mirrors. This was so much better. 20 minutes a side, and 10 minutes were used up with the door panel and trim pieces. Just rebuilt a canopy and installed it, and now I can see down the sides. Great post.