SomeNew Name

I also disconnected the coolant temp sensor so I could get more fluid out... and I should also mention that the truck is on a bit of an incline too the front is up a bit higher.. I read in some of the other coolant posts that you want to do this... I don't know if you have Msn messanger, if you do you should add me Wakka_round@hotmail.com and maybe you could kinda walk me through this in real time..! And I want to thank you very much for all the help you have given me.. it's greatly appearicated!!

so with the coolant I'm supposed to add water? I got a bunch of pre-mixed anti-freeze/coolant is that good enough? I thought the system took like 11.5Liters.. do you add a lil less and then the rest with water? the "water neck" is the thing in the front with the 3 hoses that meet infront of the valve cover? And that hose from the "water neck" when I'm putting in water from the hose that goes to the firewall.. I want the bottle attached and that one large black hose on the top that's at the passanger side attached too as well as the hose from the driver side lower rad connected to the spot beside the water pump which also connects to the drivers side?

ok.. so I undid that hose that sits on the drivers side and goes to the water pump.. and I let that drain out... and I removed the Pressure bottle too... would that give me a complete flush? where would I want to attach my garden hose too? don't I have to do the heater section too? what about the hoses at the bottle what do I do about them.. they are still filled with the old bad coolant!

maybe through the coolant temp sensor? is that in line with the drain plug?

well I grinded down a 5/16ths hex key and it fits now.. but the damn thing won't move and I don't have enough room to fit a pipe on the mutha either... does that dain plug really need to be removed to get a full flush.. or could I ignore it and flush it via some other method?

There is a drain plug on the side of the block... it looks like it takes a square extenstion but my 3/8ths is too big and my 1/4 is too small... what can I use to get that beast open and off? and I don't have another square extention to use in there any suggestions?

So In my attempt to get somehting done.. I disconnected the top rad mounts so that I could see what I was kinda doing... and then I disconnected the Large Black hose on the drivers side that was inbetween the two rigid line that connect to the top and bottom of the drivers side rad.. and I disconnected it at the engine beside the water pump.. and whoosh all this coolant come running out... I wasn't expecting that.. I also disconnected the Large black hose that conected to the top of the passanger side rad.. and tried to pour som coolant down it to see where it ended up and it came out the hose that I disconected at the engine.... if I were to run water though that what would I be cleaning out? and what would it leave for me to finish the process? I'm a real noobie at this..

the first picture is of a pressure bottle from a MJ.. that's what it looks like to me.. but rest are nissan pics..

ok well I've been trying to id those hoses you've been talking about... and I found 2 rigid lines (one mounted higher than the other) that connect to the rad on the drivers side, and run all the back to the passanger side and connect to the side of the transmission? (the behind the area that the starter is connect to) and there is also a large black hose that connects inbetween them at the rad.. and goes to the bottom of the engine (drivers side) what do I do with those? which one do I want to disconnect? and then there is a large rubber hose (black in colour) from the pasanger side top portion of the rad that goes to a steel tube infront of the valve cover. On either side of that there is 2 other rubber hoses (orange in colour) the one on the passanger side inreferance to the Large Black hose (I assume is the pressure side) that goes to a Tee and from there goes to the bottom of the bottle and also goes to the firewall. The other orange hose that's on the driverside in reference to the Large black hose also goes to a tee and fom there goes to the top of the bottle (return?) and also into the fire wall too and it is below the one that also goes into the fire wall... Which lines do I wanna disconnect? and where do I wanna discoonect them? This is my first time doing this and all I have is bottles of coolant to refil the system.. and all the stores are closed so I can't buy anything else, so if your suggestions could work around that it would be greatly appearicated.. Thanks again for all your help guys.. !!!!! <3

still having a huge issue with this.. idles from 250-750rpm and everywhere in between!! I really need help on this one guys!! please

you know what I'm kinda having the same problem myself.. but I'm also having an issue with my idle being horrible... it idles anywhere from 750-250 and it studders and shakes the whole damn truck..

ok I've cleaned the S$^% outta the throttle body and the tps and the IAC, I'm still havin that rough idle problem.... I've noticed alot of slack in the cables.. could that be causing me some grief? Now I know with carbs there is an Idle adjustment screw but I can't seem to find one on here.. is the idle non adjustible on TB's? Also it feel like it's studdering (shaking) at times. When I'm driving it's fine.. it only seems to be at very slow speeds or at idle.. Also there is a wire harness that sits right beside the valve cover (driver side) that get's really damn hot.. and the fuel injector lines ( black things that plug into the injectors) are damn hot too... and seem to be kinda pinched? Anyone?

now I have cleaned the S$#@ outta my throttle body, and all the idle passages, but the gasket crubmled as I removed the TB from the truck.. now I have some gasket red here that I can make a sillicone gasket.. but I'm afraid of plugging up the passages.... do you think it's better for me to wait the 4 days to get the appropraite gasket.. or could i get away with using the gasket maker if I was a ninja with it?

yeah if you could snap a few off that would be awesome bro... thanks alot for your help here!

yeah I forgot to mention that it's a 4.0L 1990 so yeah the renix era.. do you happen to have a few pictures laying around that you could show me exactly what you're talking about.. if you don't that's ok.. I'm a noobie at doing coolant.. will this method create quite a mess? if so I'll lay down a few rags.. Is there other method of doing a full system flush, or is that the only way? someone mentioned to me that I might have to toss the heating switch in the truck to full open, so that I get a complete drain or something of that sort... is that true? I'm trying to make this as easy as I can.. so any other tips or trick will help alot thanks for the reply bro!

Well, I've noticed that my coolant is brown and thick like a hearty soup. This truck has been sitting for about 3-4 years and it's time for this to be done before I bring it in for a saftey. Now I would want to flush the system first, maybe pou about 2-3 litres through it and then start to add coolant. But I've heard that these truck have problems taking on coolant. If I wanted to do a flush were would I want to place my bucket or drain pan? where would I drain it outta? Tips/Trick for getting it done? what could I use to clean the pressure bottle? just more coolant?

ok I've been trying to remove the throttle body and I have the IAC and the TPS removed, and I took out the 3 big torx head bolts out.. but there is still something holding it.. and I can't see it. and I want to get it outta the truck so I can spray it down like crazy.. what else could be holding it down? Also, what would I want to use to clean the injectors? would the throttle body cleaner be enough? or would I want to take them in? How would I clean them?

yeah, that sounds like you're over drawing.. if you were to do an electrical load analyst, you would probely find that with your heater, fogs, and misc on that you are drawing more than what you're putting out.. so if you were drawing 75A with all that stuff on and you only have a 61A alt you're drawing way too much off it that the alt can't keep up... if you can't do a load analyst then I would tell you to get a bigger alt cause it sounds like you're over drawing.. What we do in the case of Aircraft is we do a load check and if we find out that the A/c is drawing too much we change the Starter Generator to a higher output, (IAW the applicable standards of airworthiness) and leave a plus 10% buffer.

are you talking about the ccv on the valve cover? the one closest to the rear? if that's the case, then I think that has a calibrated orfice, and the front one is coming from your airbox. I think there was something about creating a natural vaccum too, I can't remember

well see FX.. if you knew this truck like I did you wouldn't be saying that champ.. If this was the first time this happened, I would agree with you, but it's not over the last year or so I've had to replace my batt 3-4 times due to this issue.. and it's recurring, but the truck also does sit for extended periods of time.. cause I drive the girls grand prix to work and back.. and it's in pretty rough shape right now, as I've been working on it over the last year and a half.. Slowly.. I think pete is on the right path.. but for myself.. I take their suggestive methods into consideration.. but I always try to take the more cost effictive approach... but with alternators I can test the Rotor and stator myself.. and those diodes are all servicible in there right now.. and the output is right where it should be.. so the problem lies elsewhere.. I guess I have neglected alot of information,

so I got the battery load tested and it failed and they replaced it for free.... but I still have a feeling something is killing it over time.. any ideas?

well you could pull the valves and springs and make a plate, to cover the valve openings? and then give it a hell of a cleaning after you getter done..

Well My truck has seen better days.. I replaced my o2 sensor, cause the "emission maintenance" Light came on, and I figured that well the light is only a timer, but I might as well just replace it.. and then I found out that the light couldn't be reset without a specific scan tool plugged in? is this true? or do you know of another way to reset this light. and since I've been having problems with my battery I've been having a very rough idle around.. it jumps around from like 750-250 and everywhere inbetween...anything I should be cleaning out.. or checking on this one.. I have a FSM for a 1992 comanche, but it's a 1990 I have so alot of the stuff in the book I can't use.. 1990 Jeep Comanche 4.0L I6 AW4 Ohh and my coolant seems to be non-existant, the bottle is empty, and there is all this brown sludge in there.. I've bought new coolant.. but I want to flush the system before I start to fill it back up... any tricks I should know? Where would I want to flush from.. and what could I use to see if my bottle is fine? the lil valve looking thing (metal) ontop of the bottle appears to not have a lid for it? What would be my best approach to flush it and fill the bastard up.

yeah I'm going to try and get that battery up to Canadian tire to get those bastards to load test it......

if it were me and I'm a savage.. I would get a threaded fitting for a grease gun and use hydraulic pressure to punch the piston out.. With that theaded fitting for the gun .. you remove the spark plug and start pumping the S%#^ outta it.. while you have a long breaker bar on the crank nut.. turn the breaker bar while filling the cylinder with grease.. it's going to be quite the mess to clean up but it'll get the piston moving.. I've done that quite a few times on Aircraft engines.. and the theroy would directly apply to automotive engines.. but yet again.. Automotive piston engines are much more complicated than aircraft engines.