jamespwsullivan

Thanks everyone. Good info. NTK's site says this: NTK 23553 OE Identical Oxygen Sensor That strongly implies that it meets OE specs. Of course, one must trust what they say... I'd still like to hear other experience agreeing with (or not) what's been said.

So in the Renix world there seems to be some opinions about which brand of O2 sensor is the best (or the only) choice. I 'm trying to eliminate all possible sources of problems, and since the O2 sensor is a critical part of Renix, if I have to replace it, I'd like to know if there is an overriding opinion of one being different or better than the other and why. Thanks

@Cruiser54 Renix Ground Refreshing and (Upgrades) - all completed C101 not refreshed or replaced Lighting connector refreshed, not all relay contacts cleaned ICU / coil contact refresh not completed Sensor ground test completed - all grounded points - sensors, firewall, fuel pump, additional ground points in engine compartment - test at .3 ohms or less Sensor Ground Upgrade completed CPS not tested - no cranking or startup issues TPS adjustment completed ECU harness connectors not refreshed TCU connectors in engine bay not refreshed, connector in cab refreshed Throttle body and IAC thoroughly cleaned, new gasket installed Good explanation of finding TDC Distributor indexing procedure not completed but inspection shows that the rotor position in relation to the #1 spark plug wire post is correct. As far as vacuum leaks go, I’m pretty confident that I have chased down all of the bad hoses and connections. I considered using the NAPA / Dorman front and rear vacuum harnesses but they say they fit ‘88-’90 and I have an ‘87. Not sure what might be different. I also replaced the MAP vacuum hose. By the way, the ‘L’ connectors currently available from NAPA using the part number you suggested will not fit onto the MAP. I was able to force one of them onto the throttle body. Perhaps they have changed the material. I used a section of new vacuum hose instead. As always, I appreciate feedback and suggestions from you guys.

Thanks DirtyComanche and Cruser54. Cruiser-apologies for the late responses. I've been raveling and haven't got notifications turned on apparently. I do have the test resistance chart and did the test. For context, my question was really to clarify what the correct replacement part would be if it did need replacement. I'm working hard to get all of the bugs out of my 87 after years of not being on the road and many sensors have shown signs of failure or were at least questionable. And I'm working with a hybrid motor--block is a 93 according to the numbers but Renix is the MPI system. One of the first things I found is that there was no knock sensor. Luckily I was able to fabricate a stud that fit the already threaded hole in the block and allowed a new knock sensor to slip on and be bolted down. At this point we've gone from a lot of stumbling (corrected with new O2 and knock sensors) as well as replacing an injector that did not measure well in terms of resistance )I used a rebuilt, flow-tested set that are working fine.) to an engine that runs pretty well most of the tine. A long test drive last night seemed to allow the ECU to do some learning but there are still some hiccups when under a load (going up a hill from a standing start for instance.) Since I don't know much of the history of this motor it could be the case that the PO did not change the flex plate when it was swapped and it has the part from the 93. That would affect the initial timing. Again, apologies for the late response and thanks for the help.

I am finally getting down to the final phase of resurrecting my 1987 4.0 Renix MJ-at least the motor. One of the things I've been looking for is a MAT sensor. Of course the stock item is no longer available according to my searching and looking at lots of posts in several forums. My brother did find a post: https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/87-90-mat-sensor-discontinued-part-fix-walkthrough-how-to.1549148/ that provides an alternative. The OP's approach involved combining the sensor from one SKU with a pigtail from another SKU. Then someone commented that there was a lower cost way to get to the same solution. Here's the scoop. According to the thread there are two part numbers that will work for the sensor. SU343 and WT3023. I usually buy at NAPA. Searching those two numbers produces two NAPA numbers, TS3004 and TS5014. Which of these part numbers is correct or best? Does anyone have experience with this fix or any other way to approach replacing the MAT sensor? The commenter gave a number for the pigtail - PT778 - that crosses to NAPA TSC300. MORE INFO Nick's (REM) Renix Parts Suggestions page relays a tip from David Groeneveld that GM 213-190 has the correct resistance range. (It does require changing / re-tapping for a larger fitting.) My guy at NAPA says the best cross is TS5100. Does anyone have experience with this part?

Without a bunch of story, let’s just say that I had all three and now I don’t. I’m interested in a stock one or any ideas anyone has about adapting another part.

@Bryan Cobb That’s really interesting. I have a new tank in a box in the attic. It came as a replacement for my 23.5 gallon tank. It’s not a Spectra. I’ll get it down and take a look at it. Is it still easy for you to get the outside measurements - at least length and width - so I can compare that way. Since I haven’t installed it yet I will also try the gallon by gallon test and see what I get.

Those measurements help a lot. I looked at two different switches that were advertised as Carling and got two slightly different sizes for mounting. Thanks!

@scalelessThanks for the info. Ordered the unit without the pump. I was already planning on the Bosch but it's always good to have another opinion.

Got it, but I wasn't clear that I have a 4.0l gas. I sent my VIN to this ebay seller along with info about the truck (so they wouldn't be too confused!) like long bed, gas, largest tank and they replied saying that this unit is a fit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/392419963971?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11051.m43.l1123&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=aede1b2b82794941ae2ddf1832e79667&bu=43122489261&osub=-1~1&crd=20210816123949&segname=11051&sojTags=ch%3Dch%2Cbu%3Dbu%2Cosub%3Dosub%2Ccrd%3Dcrd%2Csegname%3Dsegname%2Cchnl%3Dmkcid

@m2bandit Looking for calling on Amazon it appears that their switches can have slightly different sized mounting holes. What are the measurements you are using? Also, would you consider making a blank plate and cutting a hole for a gauge mount? Thanks

What I think I know is that the diesel motor takes a different fuel pump. But I’m not clear on whether or not the size of the tank makes a difference in the pump or more specifically the sending unit frame and float. Can anyone clarify that for me? I have a long bed with the larger tank - I think it’s in the neighborhood of 23 gallons. If there is a thread that goes into detail on this please direct me there. Thanks

@ghetdjc320 can you provide some more info on the double DIN installation? My dash is out and now might be a good time to do any re-engineering required.

Thanks everyone! I really appreciate all of the replies. Maybe I should have looked harder for a “Basic Wiring Tips” topic? Maybe a sticky? There’s a lot of information here and all of it either something I knew already (but might have forgotten) or something I need to know moving forward. For the record, I will solder where appropriate and I certainly agree with the idea of keeping soldered connections supported and weatherproofed. I tend to stay away from butt connectors although I have used a few of the low-temperature solder type recently when I had a heat source but no soldering iron. Maybe good for emergencies? I’m also familiar with the ratcheting crimping tools. Using them isn’t part of my backcourt but I have used a buddy’s and it did a great job. One thing mentioned by @Minuit that I had not paid attention to is when the crimping tool manages both the electrical connection and the strain relief. Regarding the fuse block and the connectors from Del City. https://www.delcity.net/store/4!way-Fuse-Block-Terminal-Strip/p_11129.h_26968 I’ve read that some have soldering wires to them, some have used the solder pellets instead of solder from a spool, and some have crimped. Does anyone have any further input on what works best for the fuse block?

I have a 1987 MJ that is in many ways in very good condition, but it has sat for quite a while so I am starting to redo some (probably all) connections in the fuse box and I suspect that the PO has made some “changes” to some of the wiring as well. I’ve been looking at wire that is appropriate for in-cab / under dash, engine bay and under the bed applications and I’m confused with the choices. It seems that I should use something that will withstand higher temperatures in the engine bay and maybe even in the cab. Automotive GPT is rated for 185 deg F and Cross-Link is rated for -40 to 257 deg F. https://info.waytekwire.com/blog/automotive-cross-link-vs.-pvc-wire-what-are-the-differences I’m looking for some recommendations for which type should be used and where? One type for every thing? I don’t plan to remake the entire wiring harness but some new runs will have to be made in the dash and in the engine bay for sure. Also, is most of the wire in the dash 16 gauge or 14 gauge? Thanks

Way to go you guys! very cool to have received the club award. Really sorry I missed the show this year. Hopefully you're not all burned out and can make it next year.

I know you requested a post back if I’m coming, but i’m Posting anyway. Over the last year or so I’ve had some communication with several of the members here and was really hoping I could fit this into my schedule. Work has been crazy busy and it’s not slowing down. The good news is that I’m retiring at the end of 2020. The bad news is that I’m not going to make it to this show. I’ll be checking in with Saveeveryjeep and Krustyballer when they get back to see what parts they scored or have left. I’ll be bale to drive my MJ by the end of this year so plan / hope to see some of you next year!

old thread, but I found all of the rubber for my MJ at Summit. The inner and outer wipes that go on the bottom of the window opening are all available from Crown (through Summit and other retailers) and the Fairchild kit handles the rest of the opening.

Got it. So if the firmware isn't at least what you showed in the picture (88.2 I think it is) then it might not work, and probably isn't updateable. Correct? finding a lot of carts on ebay labeled as version 5.4. Pictures of the readouts don't have the same format so they may be on a different screen. I'll contact one of the sellers and try to get additional info and report back to this thread in case anyone else is interested.

How does one program the cartridge? And thanks again BTW

@Minuit Thanks for the quick response! That's the number I have for the adapter but yours looks like a single connector and others I've seen picuters of are two separate conectors. As long as the spacing is correct for the two it shouldn't matter. AS far as the cartridges go, thhis takes a lot of the guesswork out of the process. Looks like 2500VCI and 2500TSI in your picture. Since I'm a tool user (and not really up on the latest technology - I learned on distributors with vacuum advance!) , I'll have to do some research on the programmable cartridge. Having one that would work on both the Renix and the LJ would be great and it sounds like you can do that as well?

I’m looking for a MT2500 for my 87 Renix MJ. I found several adapters that connect to the diagnstic ports/connectors. Can you or anyone give me some info about cartridges that I could use with the Renix ir my 2005 4.0 LJ? I think having a part number or at least a specific name from the cartridge will help me find the ones I need. Working from ebay descriptions from sellers who don’t know what they have is risky. thanks

I’d pay $10 to add that option. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m definitely interested. I won’t be able to commit until other travel plans are firmed up but we have some time. I would like to meet some of the other guys face-to-face! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm with you on this. a Swap meet would be cool but not if it's the entire weekend. I put this weekend on my calendar. If my brother and nephews bail on coming to Indiana to hike the Knobstone trail In July I can definitely make it. if they do come, I might still pull it off.