Zebvance

Ill Play!!!

This is a thread just to dump your favorite pictures of your mj. Or any Mj for that matter that you drool over. I looked around and I didnt see one of these threads started. So let the envious mouth watering start! Here is a couple of mine from sat. Last pictures of her before the new lift goes on and the 35's.

Dropped off the dana 30 Thursday to Bryan Drivetrain to get the 4.10s installed and the spartan locker put in. Hopefully I be picking it up in a couple days. on another note, took the truck down to matagorda this weekend. Put about 400 miles on it total. Ran great. Still has a little churp coming from one of the pulleys until it warms up. can't tell where it is coming from. Had to go down there to load up the truck bead full of drift wood for a order I have for my business. Also had to drop a order off to a customer. This is the last trip the truck will take before the long arms and 35's are on. If work and school permits I would like to get the old axle out and mock up the long arms before the end of spring break. Here is a few pictures I snapped playing around on the jetties. The truck did pretty good for only having 2wd right now.

well put about 400 miles on the truck this weekend and didnt have one problem with the power steering... I guess I was air?

The HB is new as of a week ago

Shackles came in. Pretty beefy!

yup $50.00 off ebay. I mounted it with this switch panel and yes it goes where the ashtray would. http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/xj-switch-panel-and-gauge-pod-1986-96.html This is another option too. I'm going to get this soon to replace the clock panel where I mounted the Tach http://www.prime4x4.com/shop/Switch--Control-Panels/Jeep-Cherokee--Comanche-XJ--MJ-84--96-InDash-DF--DH-Series/Cherokee--Comanche-8496-InDash-Switch-Control--Accessory-Panels-DH-Series/p/8496-Cherokee--Comanche-InDash-DIY-Gauge--Switch-Panel-sku-SP8496XJ-DH011d.htm

Thanks Spector!!! It's crazy how a $50.00 gauge can save a $1000.00 transmission....

Replaced the harmonic balancer and put a new belt on. Squeal Is gone. However it still will squeal when you put your foot into it hard. Dropping off my d30 to get geared and locked today hopefully after I pick up my deer meat from the processor. I'm going to drive the truck to the coast one last time this weekend to drop off a item to a customer before the thing is ripped apart again.....

Brand new belt and hub bearing as of this week. Not slipping.

All the linkages are new. Put serious offroads 1 ton steering in about 6 months ago. Ball joints however have not been replaced. But got a d30 I am building in the garage. Everything new, I plan on putting it in, in about a month or two.

1988 mj 4.0 auto. About 5-6 months ago and maybe 2000 miles ago I replaced the power steering pump, lines, pully, resivor, and gear box. Replaced the gear box with a 99 Durango box. I noticed the steering would get stuff to the point to where it would feel like it was not working after prolonged periods driving on the highway. I would say 3 miles or more. When I would exit I would notice very stiff or no power steering and then after I would give it some gas it would come back. However I could be idling in park or cruising around town and never have a problem with it. So I replaced the power steering pump. This is the third one in 2 months. Same story with all the pumps. Also put another gear box in. Every thing is the same nothing is changed. Can some one explain this for me? I'm at a complete loss.

Do you have a write up on it cruiser?

Put the new alternator in and realized the alternator bracket had a big crack in it. Cranked it up and it still has a squeal. After talking to a buddy he suggested that if the rubber ring in the harmonic balancer was in bad shape it could be throwing the belt out of alignment and causing the squeal. I picked up a new harmonic balancer; new belt and I'm supposed to pick up a new alternator bracket today. In the mean time while I was waiting on parts yesterday, I replaced my Trans Temp gauge because back light in it stopped working and wired up a small light above the switch panel so I could see them at night. Also trouble shot a reverse light issue I was having. They were very erratic. First I noticed my dimmer switch had a short in it with a multimeter. So I replaced that. Then I started metering other things out and found I had a weak ground to the whole Dash panel and added a ground to it. The reverse lights are working well now but you have to drop it from park to drive to reverse to get them to come on. So now I'm thinking it is the Neutral Safety Switch. However the back light on my climate control is also not coming on except every blue moon. So when I get the time ill pull that out and see what's going on with that. Anyway ready for this thing to be running right so I can get this lift on.

My reverse lights would work every now and again and come on when I giggled the headlights switch. Also my climate control panel will light up every once in a while. I regrounded the dash panel today and put a new headlight switch in today. Climate control panel is still not coming on and to get the reverse lights to turn on you have to shift it from part to neutral then reverse for them to come one. Which is atlease better than what they were doing. So at this point I'm Thinking the NSS, but what about the climate control panel?

Small update, Got the new OEM mopar fan hub bearing bracket replaced and everything back together. Guess what? That wasn't the squealing bearing. Turns out it was the alternator the whole time. I'm kinda in a predicament because I wanted to upgrade to an aftermarket 160amp alternator, beef all the charge/ground wires to 4 gauge and run dual battery in the tool box to handle the load I have. Problem is it is going to roughly run $750.00. After buying the tires, rims, lockers and fan hub bearing I am tapped out as far as funds go right now. So, turns out in the fully loaded mjs with ac, they came with a 100 amp alternator instead of a 60 amp alternator. Advance had this with a discount code for $70.00. So that is the fix for now. I put it in and see how it goes. Maybe the extra 40amps will be all I really need. If that's the case I will plan on still beefing the charge/ground wires and I still want a larger reserve so I will hook up dual batteries in the tool box in the future. One small issue however. Was trying to put the direct bolt in alternator in last night and the casing is a tad bit larger. Well it is a hair too big to fit in the alternator bracket for some reason. While I was replacing it I also found that the PO had broke off the second bolt that holds the alternator on off in the alternator bracket. The plan is it pull the whole bracket off this afternoon after class and shave it down a bit for better filament and weld a bolt to the broken off bolt stud and pull it out. If it's worth doing, its worth doing right....

Never put two and two together but that would be very cool. If I can find the time soon I might try. Not sure what I would do for the wheels though, any ideas?

spartan lockers engage when they feel torque put to the axle, when its not locked it will click when you turn, i prefer selectable lockers for the rear and lunchbox lockers are fine for the front IMO I would have went with a selectable in the rear but the funds did not allow it.

Got my rims in and my lockers. Hopefully I can get them and the gears put in this week if I get the time.

Yea the back is sitting 3-4 inches higher. as soon as I get this front axle done I'm putting my long arms on and leveling it out.

Just ordered front and rear Spartan's and some pretty beef shackles to put on with the long arms.

UPS guy stopped by today and left these!

Thanks! Jcr roof mounts. The build of it is here : http://comancheclub.com/topic/38227-well-i-did-do-it-my-mj-has-a-roof-rack-now-pictures-uploaded/

roof rack on an MJ? i'd love to see that, Redwolf Yes custom build.

Meant rub*