ftpiercecracker1

:(

1989 swb, 4x4, 4.0, 5spd. I am in the middle of dropping in another engine and have 90% of the engine harness ran. As of right now i have two issues, 1. starter clicks only once when i turn the key, I have to wait a min, with key off, before i can get it to do it again, interior lights and radio work normally the whole time. Battery is fully charged, terminals are clean and tight, starter relay is good with all old connectors cut off and replaced with shiny new ones, starter also works fine, installed on engine and tested with jumper cables before dropping engine into bay. 2. Fuel pump no worky, worked perfectly when i took it out, EDIT: also the ballast resistor has been bypassed. I know the problem is the ground, I just don't know where/how the fuel pump is grounded, the plug for the pump (at the back of the cab) is getting power, just no ground I can have pictures up within min if you need to see something. thanks guys, ftpiercecracker

Cruiser, are you saying that if you delete the EGR the motor will not run right? I ask because i just finished cutting out my EGR entirely, wiring and all. Reason being, i am swapping in a 93 engine with a 99 intake and therefore there is no place for the EGR. I have also read several threads on deleting the EGR and those who have done it have not reported any adverse effects, but when i saw you had said something about the idle being wack, i got the cold sweats. If you could clarify that would be great. ftpiercecracker sorry for the thread jack OP

Pictures arent there. :hmm:

I built this setup tonight as a matter of fact for my 4.7L stroker for my XJ. I just HAPPENED to have two screws of the right size and pitch, all I had to do to them was cut them to the right length. I followed your write-up to a tee and will be finding out in the next couple of days if she works for a running engine. In practice, it seems to be doing great. I'll snap some additional pictures and post them here. :crossfingers: :crossfingers: :crossfingers: Hope it works out, :peek: definately let me know how it goes. As for the screws, I still have mine and can go back to fastenal and pick up more for those who need them. Maybe i can even get them for free again. :brows:

86 4.0 was not avaiable, 87-90 is Renix, 91-92 is HO

Doin good so far. :thumbsup: The 91 will be a HO motor and if its complete; wiring harness, fuel delivery/lines, ECU, Transmission, I would go for it. If you just want straight drop and go, look for a motor between the years listed AND the same tranny.

Sorry bud but i still don't know the dimensions. My best advice to you is to take the TB to lowes/homedpot/Tractor supply and look in their specialty hardware bins. Just try different ones out until you find a winner. I was hoping someone would build this and try it out on their rig, i did this writeup months ago and still havent gotten to actually try it myself so i don't even know if it works. :crossfingers:

Be aware also that if you have a manual, 91 and up 4.0s use a different pilot bearing that WILL NOT will not work with pre 91 AX15s, ask me how i know this.

Oh d*mn thats good. :laughin:

ALL THE TIIIME!! :laughin: :hmm:

Thanks Biotex, but after a few trips to the table grinder i was able to get the 89 bearing to work. I spent 45min at NAPA with their senior staff and could not come up with anything. The closest one would have been from a 92/93 cherokee with a 1" OD and .75 ID, although I am not sure if the .159 would have been to much slop to make it a feasible solution. Either way, I am actually glad it happened, its just one more thing under my belt of jeep knowledge. 'Not all 4.0 cranks are created equal' Thanks again Biotex ftpiercecracker

Thanks for the offer, I will see what i can do. The current bearing, for the 89, has the right ID (.591) but the wrong OD (1.055) It needs to lose the .055 off of the OD.

Got any ideas? If I found out the ID and OD of the original bearing I could cross reference them against other bearings dimensions, the problem is that the auto parts stores do not list said dimensions. I would have to order every bearing that 'looked' like it might work and then measure it once it came in, which could take weeks, if they even let me do such a thing.

The bearing that is meant for the 89 is very close, with a little encouragement from the grinder I know I can get it to work. I was just hoping I could find a bearing that would work without modifying.

A little update and info, a pilot bearing for a 93 zj will not work with an 89 ax-15, ID of the bearing is too large. But neither will the pilot bearing for an 89 4.0 work in a 93 zj crank, the OD is too big.

Appreciate it bud. I actually found a few pictures of the frame before i cut out the section in question and i am about 98% certain there are no bolt holes to worry about, but if you don't mind taking the pictures it would help reassure me. Thanks a bunch. Ftpiercecracker

Whilst doing a random google search of comanche and comanche related stuff i came across this blueprint for a front bumper and thought it was really cool. Sorry about the sideways picture i can't get it to change. Image Not Found

:dunno:, I suppose. I was hoping some old guy would come buy it for his daily driver or his grandson's first truck.

Finally sold her, got a $1000 cash. Although i never did really like the little truck i am some what sad to see her go. The man that bought her, cuts them into pieces and ships them overseas to be sold for parts. Kinda makes me feel like i betrayed the little truck, in return for all its reliable service i go and sell it to the chop shop. :( Oh well i suppose, it is just a truck after all.

So long as it is in the stock position, it shouldn't matter if the crossmember itself is after market

How the transmission crossmember and tcase skid bolt to the frame. Basically which bolt holes are used for what. I need to know if I can just weld in a new piece of steel without having to worry about drilling holes and welding nuts on and all that mess.

Can somebody take a picture of their undercarriage? I can't seem to remember how the trans crossmemeber and t-case skid bolt up. I had to cut out a section of the frame (rust) and i can't remember if there were any bolt holes in the piece cut out. It will make my life a lot eaiser if i can just get a strip of steel, slap it in there, and weld it up. 4.0, AX-15, 231J thanks, ftpiercecracker

When you turn the key to the 'run' position does nothing happen? I would see what all power you have coming into the fuse box using a test light. Something even more simple would be to check out your battery clamps and terminals, make sure they are clean clean clean.

Lets try that again, but this time in english. :hmm: