Abyx

Who hands these people a wrench sometimes? I just don't get how you can even do this! Put one on right side up, the other upside down? HOW? I used to see this all the time; I can't even do this when I try to! And yes I've tried, haha. I don't even know how to get these things off; it's a shame because one of the rotors is brand new and the pads are in good shape - good for spares. Took this today when I swapped front axles.

Pictures!

I like that you guys incorporated the use of speed bends in the antenna. :rotfl2: Looks cool though! I'm interested to see the results.

Wow!! These are some AWESOME pictures, thanks for sharing!

Hey man thanks a lot! That's exactly what I need. Only other problem I've come up with is...where do you find the regulators? Can you even buy them locally or do you have to order them?

My two theories are that either a piece of road debris struck it, or it was struck when the PO swapped the motors. There's a sizeable chunk missing from the case right on the exposed portion and I'm assuming the tension of the serpentine belt eventually caused the crack to splinter. The noise got significantly worse upon tightening of the belt.

Hey guys, My truck started growling at me lastnight, I had thought it had something to do with my recent transmission swap, however the culprit appears to be that my alternator appears to have...cracked in half. Which also lead me to find that my coolant bottle is cracked as well. :X open cooling system swap time? I have two good spare alternators for my 91 Cherokee, which is OBD1. I know that the wiring connections are different, but I'm good at soldering and was hoping to find out if I can just somehow wire it to work with the Renix? I don't want to have to buy a new one if I don't have to, money is tight right now and bills are due. Especially considering I have two of the things and possibly can acquire a third. Thanks in advance!

Congrats man! Hopefully this solves your problem!

I literally 'just' did this swap, as in two days ago. Here's the major problem I had - viewtopic.php?f=2&t=34700&start=0 Removing the pilot bearing spacer...it took me two days to finally get it. Also, the cross member location on the frame rails is DIFFERENT between the Puegot and AX, the Puegot uses the front 8 mounting positions, the AX uses the BACK 8 mounting positions; if you can't thread bolts securely into the back weld nuts, I wouldn't do this swap until you're ready to fix that. I figured this out at 11:00 at night and only had two weld nuts left, I drove it home on two bolts...scary.

I pity the person who decides to swap a dash harness....removing them alone is a royal PITA! Unless you're disassembling the dash to begin with; I wouldn't even bother....just cut, solder, heat shrink and tape; you'll be fine as long as you take your time and use a little brain work. I recommend pulling the fuse box as far away from the firewall as you can manage; this involves removing one of the steering column braces and unbolting the engine bay > interior harness from inside the engine bay so the interior connector can follow the fuse box.

Here's some information I gathered having just done the swap. Be sure that you have the means to remove the pilot bearing and pilot bearing spacer when you're doing this swap; this issue caused me two days delay in attempting to find tools, knowledge and resources to remove it - I ended up using my MIG welder to remove it; here's the thread that I posted in which everyone offered me insight - viewtopic.php?f=2&t=34700 Also, be sure that your frame rails are in good enough condition to support the new crossmember! There are a total of 8 mounting points for the crossmember, however; there are also two 'sets' of these holes. The Puegot trans uses the front four per side, the AX15/AW4 use the 'rear' four per side. I completely forgot about this, and had already made a point to repair the front weld nuts....luckily I still had two extra weld nuts left to support the trans to get my jeep home. The factory nuts were rotted out. Hopefully this will save someone some hassle.

I'm not saying it could be directly related to the turn signal switch - but it's entirely possible because I'm 90% certain that power passes through it; so that may be related to your issue. http://www.bteventures.com//mj1988electricalmanual.pdf Here's the link; start chasing wires. :cheers:

The brake light switch is wired into the same harness as the turn signal switch connector on the steering column, I'd look there for starters. I don't have the link on hand, another member might, but the electrical manual for '88s is available online. The wiring is largely the same between years but it should give you a good idea of where to look

This has NEVER worked for me... not sure what I'm doing differently than everyone else who claims to have had success with this trick, but I always end up just making a mess. I'm telling you, the weld around the inside will make it practically fall out. I've done this numerous times and never accidentally welded the spacer to the crankshaft. Take your time, steady hand. You don't have to weld it all the way around, just get most of it. This. I was extremely hesitant at first, but after being told to git by the local shop, I decided to give it a try based on their half stated recommendation. It was a little nerve stacking until I took a closer look and saw how much space I had to weld on. I had my friend on hand to rotate the crank for me while I welded. It didn't fall right out but if I had turned up the power on my welder I imagine it would have. Following the welding I decided to give the broken slide hammer a try, so I drilled out the weld bead so as to fit the hammer...low and behold it pulled out. I actually did see the wet toilet paper suggestion, but I was extremely skeptical...having seen that picture I'm a lot more convinced though. I have to say, without my welder on hand this swap would have been impossible. I had completely forgotten about the transmission length differences, and of course the weld nuts in the frame were rotten...I only had two weld nuts extra, I limped my truck home with two half inch bolts holding the transmission up. Off to Fastenall tomorrow. You guys were a huge help, thanks a ton! :thumbsup:

Without grease its a little hard to get the bearing on that sleeve. It's a very exact fit. However that sleeve is integral to the transmission, as far as i know you can't remove it without disassembling the trans. Let me know if there's anything else I can help you with, I may have some exploded diagrams laying around somewhere, ill see if I can dig them up for you.

Get yourself a cheap tooth brush, a container of mineral spirits, a metal pick of somekind and a block of wood. Mineral spirits dissolves that stuff like its meant to.

You do have a good point on body flex; but from what I gather body flex is more so a twisting motion on the lines, rather than an actual bending which can occur from the twisting of a motor in the mounts. That's just an educated(retard) guess; but I 'have' seen them break several times when I used to work in a Jeep shop. It's a temporary fix in my eyes. I'd order one online, I'm just trying to save you the hassle of a bad occurance one day, ya know?

I have a LUK also...so far have 30,000 on it...I pulled it out of my cherokee for use in my MJ; it's about 3/8"s worn down by now. I like it. :thumbsup: By the way, that's with some hard downhill engine braking while towing a trailer.

I went out and bought some PB blaster today and I soaked it pretty good; so hopefully it'll penetrate...I guess I'll go with either the puller or the jigsaw thing; I'd rather not cut it if I don't have to, but I also don't want to break anymore tools that ain't mine. The pilot puller was a pretty fancy looking tool...I can only imagine what it's going to cost me to replace. :grrrr: On the bright side, this gives me a chance to trade flywheels since my MJ's flywheel is toast.

I couldn't manage to pop out the terminals, but you also have to consider that the terminals are the cause of your fusebox problems. So, instead I went out and got a whole new box from an '88 Auto XJ and just soldered all the lines in...it wasn't as complicated or time consuming as I thought, I got it done in about 3 1/2 hours....all of my electronics work 'great' now. That's if you're swapping it because of the brake fluid problem.

Permanent fix to my broken threads - WELD NUTS! :jump: 2$ a pop, super easy to install..drill out the old weld nut to 5/8", insert new weldnut, weld all the way round, paint, done! The ones I got were for half inch bolts simply because that's what was on hand..you can get them in different sizes from Fastenall.

I'll give them a call tomorrow; how easy or hard was it with the different style puller? I'm actually going to go to the local Jeep shop tomorrow and ask them about it...I was thinking about using a pnuematic jigsaw and cut notches in it; my dad suggest drilling out the sides and hitting it with a punch. Do you think any of these options hold any ground? Either way I'm exhausted now, that slide hammer really did a number on me...

Ah I missed that part, fair enough. I'm in the middle of a swap on a 4.0, not a 2.5. Honestly I didn't even know they made an external slave AX-5...I thought they were all internal slaves. However, are you positive that the slave and clutch unit are fully bled? I once had an instance where the push rod actually came out of the slave cylinder and I had to re-bleed the non bleed-able unit...you simply reverse bleed it by depressing the push rod until you stop getting air bubbles in the MC. I'd consider trying that, but just be careful because I'm not sure if you're supposed to be able to do that or not..it's always worked for me; I've done it twice already. Here are the pictures I told you I'd get you, these are from an AX-15 though... - I'm not positive that you can buy that retaining clip from a parts store...do you have a Jeep shop nearby or a really good junkyard? Or are you good at fabricating stuff? If the fork isn't properly situated on the ball-joint, then the fork won't push the throw out bearing with the proper amount of leverage, and it's entirely possible that the clutch wouldn't function correctly because of it. The entire system works on the proper amount of leverage.

Yeah, but unfortunately my phone can't upload to photobucket; I tried, haha. It's fancy, but it isn't that fancy apparently....kind of disappointing. Though there's literally no option on the site so maybe it's not my phone. Here's what I'm dealing with - I drilled out the pilot bearing using a 3/4" drill bit, so as to fit the pilot puller.....which I managed to break today, which also happens to not be mine :( I'm going to try and weld it back together...I can't imagine it will hold very well, but it's better than nothing. I had my dad come pick me up, as now I'm without a vehicle until I can solve this.

You don't have the fork retainer? Jeez man that's probably the problem! There's a spring clip that holds the shift fork on the Balljoint. I just took pictures of the set up in my trans ill post them up when I get access to a computer. I'm putting a 93 Ax15 in an 87 MJ. There's a special pilot bearing set up. what do you mean you knocked it out with a hammer?